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  1. ☑ ORIGINAL POSTER #26
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    Which ones are the idle screws and which ones are the mixture screws?

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  3. #27
    SeadooForum Pro soccerdad's Avatar
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    1 out of 1 members found this post helpful.

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  4. #28
    SeadooForum Pro pwgsx's Avatar
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    The factory settings will be fine for your ski, dont touch them. You either need to raise your idle with the idle screw OR you did not clean the carbs 100% OR your pop off is not right. Did you re-use your factory springs? Hope so!!!!
    Current: 2016 RXP-X 300, 89 JS 550 / 650 Conversion
    Sold: 04 RXP, 99 GSX Limited- w/mods, 95 XP, 94 750sx, 94 SN Superjet, 04 Speedster 200, 99 GSX Limited #2, 96 XP

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  5. ☑ ORIGINAL POSTER #29
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    Yes reused the factory springs, I will re dial in the carbs to the factory setting and adjust the idle screw to get it to 3000, I know the factory settings on the carbs can be off by less then a quarter turn or so... but I will re dial it all back in and the pop off was in range of where it should be

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  6. ☑ ORIGINAL POSTER #30
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    UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Well I went to adjust the idle on the carb and No Idle screw.. so I took one of an old set of carbs and put it on.. re dialed the carbs to the factory settings... turned fuel on and all it did was crank... no start or attempt to start.. has spark so it's obviously a fuel problem. I can't figure this thing out and it's killing me Bc I hate carburetors, not to mention two strokes.. anyways I am not sure what to do or where to go from here? I am honestly lost.. I know it's a fuel problem but I am not sure why it isn't getting fuel? How can I trace this problem where do I start? What tests can I do? When I bought the new engine I thought great I'll drop it in clean the carbs and good to go... well apparently not I am just lost.. you give me a Diesel engine I'll fix it with my eyes shut or I can even tell you the problem by the symptoms... but this I'm scratching my head and very frustrated... I hope someone has some where for me to start and I will go step by step with you and give you the answers.... thanks I hope I can get some answers

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  7. #31
    SeadooForum Hall of fame mikidymac's Avatar
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    Connect the reserve line from the tank directly to the carb. And see if it pulls fuel.

    Will it pop and run if you put a little premix down the carbs?

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  8. ☑ ORIGINAL POSTER #32
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    I'll try the pre mix first.. I will give you an answer most likely tomorrow when I'm done work..... then I will take the reserve
    Line from the selector directly to the carb correct?

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  9. #33
    SeadooForum Hall of fame mikidymac's Avatar
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    No, line directly from the RES fitting on the fuel tank sender to the carb.

    Are you sure the idle screw was missing? There is only 1 on the front carb and the rear carb doesn't have one.

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  10. ☑ ORIGINAL POSTER #34
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    Yes positive, it was missing I realized it when I went to adjust it and it wasn't there luckily I had that other set of carbs laying around... but I'm hoping I will get a chance tonight to see what happens.....

    Doesn't the RES line run from the tank to the selector? Bc if so don't I have
    To take it from the selector and stick it right to the carb feed

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  11. #35
    SeadooForum Hall of fame mikidymac's Avatar
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    Yes but you want to eliminate the selector and strainer as a possible problem. So run from the tank directly to the carb.

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  12. ☑ ORIGINAL POSTER #36
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    Ok so I had a chance to run your tests....

    With the line hooked from the reserve directly to the carb, no change just cranking...

    With pre mix poured directly into the carbs it fired up and reved really high then shut off.. as I figured, just very odd.. what's next?

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  13. #37
    SeadooForum Hall of fame mikidymac's Avatar
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    Either....
    1. your fuel pump in the MAG carb is bad.
    2. Your pulse line is bad and not giving the fuel pump a pulse to pump.
    3. Your fuel baffle is bad and not picking up fuel and/or you have it connected to the VNT or RET fitting and not the RES fitting.

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  14. ☑ ORIGINAL POSTER #38
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    Ok
    How do I test or eliminate these items.
    Pulse line is new with the engine...

    3.) I don't know where to begin.

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  15. #39
    SeadooForum Hall of fame mikidymac's Avatar
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    3. Pull the fuel line off the carb and blow through it. You should hear bubbles in the tank indicating the pickup is below the fuel level. You can also put the hose in a cup and blow into the vent line for the tank with your finger over the inlet fitting on the carb and the pressure in the tank should force fuel out.

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  16. ☑ ORIGINAL POSTER #40
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    Ok un-hooked the fuel line from the carb turned the selector valve fuel and blew in... heard bubbles loud and clear,
    Then turned it to reserve also heard bubbles loud and clear turned the valve
    To off and very hard to blow...

    Now what is my next step? I wish I knew two strokes and carbs better this thing is killing me, I feel like it will never
    Run

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  17. #41
    Senior Member Cliff787's Avatar
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    It'll run! Just gonna take some patience and some more troubleshooting.

    I've had my Sea Doo's for 21 yrs. and they still run strong even after I rebuild them.

    I'm thinking since all of the other items have been tried. I have 2 suggestions at this point.

    1.) Re-check that the components in the carbs like the clear round check valves are not pinched or damaged or missing. Also check the small bypass holes in the carbs are not blocked by any type of debris and that ALL of the gaskets are installed.

    2.) Check the rotary valve clearance with a feeler gauge (I'll attach the test procedure) to see where that stands. I'm assuming SBT has already machined the cover within specs. But it doesn't hurt to re-check it because a large clearance gap will not create enough manifold pressure to pull the fuel into the engine and cause a "hard start" situation like you are having.

    This is the test procedure:

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  18. ☑ ORIGINAL POSTER #42
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    Ok, I will start by pulling the carbs off and going through them, should I just buy a rebuild kit and rebuild them, while I have them open again? Who knows that when they were rebuilt before being sent to me if something was in backwards or missing a diaphragm I just opened them to Check and clean them out???? And it's funny Bc a week or so ago I poured pre mix into the carbs and it fired up and idled really low... and I was able to shut it down and restart it and it would idle low, but when I pulled the throttle it would stall, then I added the idle screw it was missing and adjusted the carbs back to factory and now it does nothing???? That's why I'm thinking there is an issue with my carbs

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  19. #43
    SeadooForum Hall of fame mikidymac's Avatar
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    Yes, as Post #17 said you need to rebuild the carbs with all new parts.
    You know it runs by pouring gas into the intake so the engine, electrical and all that stuff is fine.

    Please rebuild the carbs at this point.

    You can order everything needed from OSD. If it was my new engine I would also replace the fuel selector and strainer.

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  20. ☑ ORIGINAL POSTER #44
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    Yea I replaced the fuel selector and strainer with the engine and put all new fuel lines in before trying attempting to start it... so I'll order the parts and do the carbs and go from there, should I replace needles or any of the low or high needles

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  21. #45
    SeadooForum Hall of fame mikidymac's Avatar
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    No need to replace the jets but I wouldn't do the carbs without also replacing the needle and seats.

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  22. #46
    Senior Member Cliff787's Avatar
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    Order the Mikuni Viton tipped N/S valves. No aftermarket ones, please!

    Here is the link to order the set to rebuild both carbs. Be sure to check the box with the Viton tipped needles.

    http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_p...products_id=38

    Silly question since you've already replaced the strainer. Was the rubber gasket from the strainer replaced as well?

    If not, OSD has the gasket needed to replace the old one(if it's still the old one). Just add it to your order.

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  23. #47
    Senior Member Cliff787's Avatar
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    If the adjustment screw tips are flattened or the screws are damaged in some way. Replace them now and add them to your order. The screws need to be pointed to correctly control the fuel flow into the circuits. So by taking them out of the carb entirely. You can visually inspect them and go from there.

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  24. ☑ ORIGINAL POSTER #48
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    I disassembled one carb and the tips look good on the needles. Now do I replace the spring or should I leave that one alone? I have the whole thing disassembled cleaned it up and placing my order, I will check the pop off pressure when I get it back together

    Yes I did replace the rubber gasket in the fuel strainer I went crazy on the fuel system after I pulled the gray lines and saw all the crap they left behind...

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  25. #49
    Senior Member Cliff787's Avatar
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    Good man for ditching those grey Tempo Lines!They do wreak havoc after a little while! It's also cheap insurance to replace that rubber gasket. It's only rubber and obviously breaks down due to the fuel and age.

    What's the color of the spring? Can you determine it? It can be difficult to see the color sometimes. If you can't decipher what color the spring is. Just leave it in there until you can verify pop off. Unless it's rusty or if the spring back is weak when you push down on arm. You can determine the pop off pressure with the spring. I'll attach the Mikuni chart to review.


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  26. #50
    Senior Member Cliff787's Avatar
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    Ok good to know the tips are sharp and pointy.

    What was the pop off pressure when you took those readings in Post #21?

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