Recent content by Wayfaring

Bottom is your fuel inlet. You can eliminate the selector switch by connecting your fuel input directly to the RES line on the fuel baffle.

The hard to start and having to hold the throttle wide open sounds like a leaking needle/seat. Gas would continue to flood the carb. I'm guessing it does okay once you get going? Having to pump the throttle to keep idle? I would look to adjust the idle screw first.

I Googled "mikuni fuel inlet fitting" and it brings up several inlets. I'm not sure if any of them are the right size though. Amazon has some too. Might want to take it to a PWC store or motorcycle shop and see what they have too.

The white plastic thing is the water separator. The filters are inside the carbs. I'll attach a link to a youtube video that will give you an idea of taking them apart. I skipped around on the video and it seems to cover the how to's of disassembly. The images are a parts diagram. The...

No, you do not need to remove the tank to replace the fuel selector valve. If you have the fuel selector in the OFF position, I would expect there to be less gas odors if the motor is flooding. Did you take the carbs off and clean them or just removed the flame arrestor and looked in the...

I would say the same. Replace the fuel lines and rebuild the carbs with OEM parts. The needles and seats are separate. You can tinker with a lot of things, but my guess is you'll continue to have the issue until you address the most likely problem with the fuel lines an carbs. At the very...

I'm not positive about the 2000 XP, but I had similar symptoms with my 96 XP. The forums pointed me to the water regulator, so I took it apart. I had a broken spring and the lower clamp had rusted and poked a hole in the bellows.

Check Amazon or Ebay. Both have them listed.

It's most likely stored sideways on your computer. It probably looks fine on your computer, but if you rotated it sideways on your computer, saved it, and then re-uploaded it.... my guess is it will post normally. I've had the same thing happen on Facebook with images I've rotated.

If I understand your original post, the female connections for the 5A fuse aren't making good connection? If so, you'll continue to have intermittent issues until that is resolved. You also mentioned that your battery goes dead if it's not used for a while. Is that a week? A few months? I'm...

I wil appropriately use images to step you through it! In the toolbar above you message box, click on the icon circled in red. There are two tabs at the top of the box that opens. Mine defaults to URL, so you would click on the "From Computer" tab if you are uploading a picture from...

I hope it's that easy! I just know that my 96 XP had a non-functional VTS when I bought it. The previous owner had just replaced the VTS motor, but it didn't fix it. In my troubleshooting, I had found the 7.5 amp fuse for the VTS was blown. I guess it stuck with me.

It might be a silly question, especially since I haven't looked at a 2001 GTS wiring diagram, but are you sure it's not supposed to be a 15A fuse? Most of the diagrams I've looked over have a 15 amp fuse in the power circuit. The only reference I know of for a 7.5A fuse in the rear electrical...

My guess would be a bad VTS control module. If I connect power to the VTS on my XP, it applies 12v to the MPEM. I'll hear a relay click up front and my low fuel LED comes on, and my battery drains, even with the key off. I disconnect the connector that supplies power from the rear electrical...

According to the Seadoo Carb Reference on a 97 GTS, Low is 1 turn out and the High is 1 1/2 turns.