Recent content by TheBaum

Ha!! Well, Barneys claims they won't work on ANY boat or jetski that is over 10 years old. So, you're out of luck now. .. or they are lying and they actually do. Which is just as bad (because that means they lie.) I spoke to them twice. Both times I asked "Even if I bought a brand...

I did not.. but, I plan to. Haven't found the proper lbs to set it to. Do you have that value?

I did not. Surprisingly, the parts diagram doesn't call for Locitte on the exterior side of the T-bolt. actually, they have lock washers. .. but apparently those don't work so well on a 3000 lbs boat. FYI: these bolts/nuts are original and have never been removed. and I would have had to...

UPDATE: as noted a couple of times by me, the wear ring was fine. The problem causing the loss of thrust (i.e. major cavitation) was due to the M10 hexagonal-nuts that hold the "pump" on. They were loose. I have no idea how/why... because the pump has never once been pulled. Needless to...

??? The white part IS the wear ring, as I understand it anyways. I don't know what "rubber component" you mean. The gap between the wear ring and impeller seems fine, as the photo shows. It has only 60 hours on it. I'll measure it, but I quite certain I don't have a gap issue. I agree...

Hi mikidymac, when you say "bad wearing", On which part/component do you mean? maybe you meant "wear ring" ? From my photo above, my wear ring does not seem too bad, does it? .. haha, idk, but, I assume everyone's wear ring looks similar to mine after a few hours of boating.

Yep, I will definitely have to look at various things. But, my main question is: (IGNORING ALL THE OTHER possibilities of what could be causing it) : Could THAT SMALL amount of damage on the impeller ALONE cause such a major loss in propulsion? sure, it would cause the pump/impeller to...

Clearance on the impeller is good.

BTW, the splines seem fine (I can't turn the shaft or impeller) and I get some thrust at idle/low throttle. and engine mounts are fine. No water leaking into hull.

I have a 2006 Sea Doo Islandia. Two of the non-SC 4-tec engines. At idle/low throttle, all is normal. Getting the minimal thrust from both pumps. At higher throttle, the port engine revs very high and yet no real change in thrust. Starboard engine/pump is performing fine. Hav searched and...

The sticks on the 2012+ ones are different sizes and shapes.. so the 2012+ handles/grabs wouldn't fit the earlier Seadoo sticks. and even if they did, Seadoo, for example, wants $400-800 (I forget at this moment without looking up) juuuust for the aluminum billet gear handle... so I can't...

Anyone try to change out the top attachments on the highly-common, straight-stick throttle controls? I see that Seadoo, in 2011/12 changed they shift/throttle controls a bit and made them significantly more user-friendly. I particularly hate that all prior models were just long, straight...

Awesome! Thanks! I will go with the Cobra fins also since my nozzles would be identical to yours... but will attempt to drill on my own (because I feel the hassle to take the nozzles off is same as the drilling hassle.) :eek::eek::cool:

"Thurst Vectors" are an item from JetBoatPilot. The fins are made of a polymer material. They rotate up at forward speeds. Some feel this is a safety concern as they could possibly prevent the reverse/neutral bucket from coming down in certain situations.. but the new design supposedly...

How low, would you say, are the Cobras below the keel? I am concerned about shallow water grounding....I regularly use my 2006 Islandia in 2 feet of water, slow speed of course (love that! ). Also, CJS doesn't make a fin for any Rotax or Mercury setup that tilts up. JetBoatPilot, with their...