Recent content by LikeabossTM

Oh, that sucks. I wonder how that happened, maybe some water stuck in a jacket turned to ice. Will definitely require some hard hand/soft hand persuasion to get it flush again.

If your engine is squirting water to the exterior of the head, is it just as likely that it's also squirting water into the cylinder(s) and having a hard time igniting the fuel/water mixture? This seems like the first thing I'd check. Pull the head and inspect for damage/re-seal.

I'd check/confirm the map sensor circuit (wiring) is good. And that the new sensor itself is actually bad already, if possible.

I second this, putting a ski up for sale this year is like chumming off Amity island in 1975. Definitely a seller's market.

I'd pull the plugs on that engine and try to manually rotate the shaft in opposite rotation to dislodge it back from whence it came.

I found everything i needed on this site, including human expertise to expand on the existing posts. Random cavitation could be a weak bellows. I couldn't read the wall of text, skipped down to the tldr, sorry. But really, start a post with a particular problem and if it's a smoker you'll get...

I repaired one using refrigerator ice maker/water line. Worked great. https://www.seadooforum.com/threads/pressure-test-pump-and-oil-tank.98091/post-631871

Well, this is just me, but... ...if the compression is good enough (>135 ish), it's not leaning out from bad gaskets, and the bottom end crank seal leaks are manageable, I'd run it as is until i needed to tear it apart. Obviously with a good safety plan commensurate with the waters you'll be...

If your popoff is good I'd guess your lever arms aren't high enough under the diaghram (level with the body of the carb floor). Or maybe transition ports aren't clear. Whatever it is, sounds like a lean hesitation off idle.

Looks like a dust cap for a fuel rail pressure gauge test port, but I'm guessing from similar automotive applications, i don't really know in this case.

Dump a bottle of octane boost in it. Or spend five bucks for a longer hose, i never pump, set the Jerry can lower than the clear hose and let gravity do the work after you get it flowing with your mouth (take your mouth off as you see it coming down).

Get rid of that fuel, it's far too old and is likely a cause, or THE cause of your issues. Anything over a year old WITH stabilizer starts to degrade, losing the ability to combust and likely dropping a few or more octane points as old as what you've alluded to. Probably you want to have your...

Good stuff, definitely make sure it's OEM. I don't have direct experience with aftermarket units, but the expert consensus is that they're bound to be bollocks. Best choices are new OEM, rebuilt OEM, used OEM, and that's the end of the list.

The brush definitely looks like a problem. No brush contact to the commutator, no power to the spinny parts, no spinning...

No, however, there was debris in the very little grease that was in there when I disassembled.