I used soft scrub and a scotch brite pad on the plastic yellow hood, followed by the wipe new. Seemed to work out well for my 2 xp's.
I've read a few guys using buffers but you have to be careful on speed and pressure or the plastic will mar and melt.
Read some tips about the black rubber trim...
When you get it all back together i'd still pressurize the whole fuel system, check for leaks. Amazing what a small air leak will do. As for the electrical.... good luck! I haven't had to replace much besides the rectifiers thankfully.
Before tearing everything out, have you checked for air leaks in the fuel system(loose connections)? One of mine had same symptoms and was a loose line, or sometimes a loose top/o-ring to the stock fuel filter shows similar problem.....
I use an air compressor(low psi) and pressurize the whole...
You can also try "aircraft decal remover" that stuff works 10 times better then goo gone(goo gone didn't work well for me). Just don't let it sit on the paint for long. Spray on, wait 20-30 sec wipe off.
Fuel line IN should be the one under the pulse line. Then there is a OUT connecting the two carbs(small length of fuel hose between the two which is the second carbs IN). Then a fuel return on the last(rear) carb back to the tank.
Just realized I wasn't on here....
ID name - location - where you use the ski/boat mostly:
KayakNFly - Downriver - Belleville Lake
pepsico - Clnton Township - Lake St. Clair, Central Michigan area
NewDoo1 (Vic) - Fenton - all the inland lakes in the Fenton area and Blind River (Canada)...
Minnetonka sells them, PM him. I also recommend a used OEM one. I purchased a new aftermarket and I lost ~500 rpm. Bought a used OEM and back to normal.
My whitewater kayak is pretty beat up. They take a good beating. Lots of scratches and what not. I've never punctured or broken my whitewater boats(thick plastic) but know people who have. They've done a similar thing of melting plastic and "welding" it back together. Seems to work if done...
Raves were cleaned less than 10 hrs ago. Bellows on water regulator are good and metal band is on tight, with a tight zip tie that I replaced the rusty clip on the bottom of the bellows. Guess I'll just have to do the old fashioned turn and try. Thanks for the input though Strizzo.
Took the valve apart again, seems to be working fine. Moves freely and I played with compressed air and moved it up and down to see the difference. Still scratching my head as to how I lost the last 400 or so RPMs.
Watch for the part out pieces, will be hard to sell as a whole. That sucks. I HATE thieves! Anyone know of a small GPS tracker that can be hidden inside somewhere?
All the manual says is 3 turns out from bottom. No more guidance there. That's all I changed from one outing to the next so it has to be that. Thanks though.