Recent content by igneous

Herve38...forget the plastic parts in the engine and premix oil and gas. You'll never have to worry about blowing motor again.

Don't let the repair shops scare you into thinking the parts are rare. That is basically a 240 hp outboard stuck in the seadoo frame... just look at how tight some of the fuel lines are around the motor--like you could drop a cowling right over top. Other merc motors share the same parts. One...

Your situation sounds exactly like mine when I stole my merc seadoo. Got mine off a friend for 2k... he got it as a repo and didn't want to work on it so I gave him what he paid it for. Mine sat for years too and I did exactly what the Dr. said, drain all gas and clean VST. The fuel pump you...

Just make your own... Go to a metal scrap place and get a 12" x 12" piece of stainless or thicker aluminum, take off ride plate to line up where you want it and mark hole locations. Drill holes, then remove the existing plate bolts and slap the extended plate under it. As you adjust the bolts...

Yeah, good job aquaman, but I'd definitely use stainless because it can be much thinner than aluminum and not bend. It's amazing how tuff stainless is. I don't visit this forum much anymore, makes me want another seadoo/merc boat.

Exactly what I did a couple yrs ago and it worked great. Have since sold the boat but it made a world of difference in planing and handling. Definitely use stainless, unless you have some very thick aluminum to try. Guy that bought the boat lives on the lake, and hopefully there's water in the...

Actually that stainless was a perfect rectangular scrap piece I grabbed from model shop at work. I think it was about 8" X 12 or 13". I would have liked it alittle wider, maybe 15". As you can see, it's only a little wider than the OEM ride plate. If you click pic and enlarge, you can see the...

Well, sorry guys....just sold the boat last weekend to get bigger one. Tryin to find an islandia or pontoon. Basically the bottom of the plate sits about 4" behind screws, so the entire plate is alittle wider than OEM ride plate and about 8" deep. I lowered the OEM ride plate and put jamb...

Guys, just had to let everyone in on my planing/porpoising fix I did at the end of last year. I put a ss plate under the ride plate with some beveled spacers to drop ride plate down. Basically I put longer bolts holding ride plate with left over rubber shock absorber parts as spacer. That...

Just wondering if anyone here has built a bench seat to replace the 3 person back row seat on a Challenger or x20? Existing seats are too small for most adults and especially for 3 across. Any ideas?

I'm looking to trade up to Islandia from my X20, but don't want that one. Looks like it's in Virginia, so if I lived up that way I'd prolly get it for a project boat. Really just need a correct size trailer to transfer it onto via lake and you're off. Second pic looks corroded from salt water...

do what murph said and glass/resin the back side anywhere they look weakened. Then sand/paint to match (as close as possible). cheapest option

Started doing the premix this past weekend. When I syphoned out all the old gas and started running pure gas, I took a black sharpie when I filled up and marked 10 gal increments on the tank. Then I went back and eyeballed 5 gal. marks. Make sure you do this on a level surface and you'll...

Or it may be the blown F1 fuse in the baffle. Search to find the fuel baffle fix. I had to do this after I found out my float was workin ok.

Mine were really bad (almost immovable) when I first got my boat. Take the entire bucket & nozzle assembly off and you'll see some plastic spacer that bolts go through. Get a dremel or sandpaper and reem out middle until bolt moves freely. Saltwater makes the plastic spacers swell and this...