Recent content by DavesNotHereMan

I have a 2011 GTI LTD 155, but the battery is the same. As you well know, that battery base is way down there. I went in head first and didn’t think I would get out. If it is just spinning, 2 things to check. 1, did the nut fall out of the bottom of the base and the bolt is attached to...

I have a 2011 GTI LTD 155. I only use Amsoil and K&N filters. Oil changed every end of season. I clicked 305 hrs today. Still hits 52 mph @ 6800 rpm. Did that today also. I put about 50 hrs a year on this ski. I use it every week. Original wear ring. This is the Normally Aspirated, 1500cc...

I have a 2011 GTI LTD 155. We put 60 hrs per year on the ski. It now has 275 hrs. I use Amsoil and K&N filters. I change at the end of the season. I have never had to add oil. So, it literally uses none.

I found that the biggest issue starting out is thinking you need to leave the steering wheel cranked over. The longer you leave it there, the more the angle on the trailer. With a short tongue to axle distance, the trailer will turn very quickly. As others have said, go slow, hand on the...

How did the brushable work out? Did brush, roll, roll and tip? I have some repairs in the upper part of my ski. Last couple of times, I used a PreVal Sprayer and was not that happy. I used 3 coats and there was so much orange peel that some got sanded off by the time I got the shine back...

As easy as any 2 part “pasty” material. I think it’s easier than, say, Bondo because you mix equal portions (if I remember correctly). Harder to sand than poly or vinylester. But it’s Epoxy.

Evercoat Glass is Polyester. My guy says No Bueno below the waterline. I have never used anything but Epoxy below the waterline.

Yes. The West System Epoxy has resin, hardener and a filler (like cabosil) to make the paste. You can buy the Total Boat Epoxy Fairing Compound from Jamestown Distributors. It is a 2 part Epoxy Filler. https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/mobileportal/show_product.do?pid=97775

I found the chemistry of fillers also to be a little confusing. I have a friend that restores old boats. He gave me the following guidelines: Above the waterline- Polyester(Bondo, etc), Vinylester (3M Marine Filler) or Epoxy based fillers(Total Boat or West). Below the waterline-Epoxy based...

Already looking better. All those scratches and gouges need to be opened up in order to take the fairing compound. Nothing less than say 1/4” wide with smooth sides. No sharp edges. What condition are the sides of the hull up to the rubrail? That also needs to be sanded in order to take new...

With regard to the paint, if it is a rattle can lacquer or enamel, you can strip it. If it is epoxy based and chipping, I would sand it. Get yourself really old clothes or a non-woven painting cover up. You need a respirator because the dust goes everywhere. You need to get to a stable surface...

I took on a first time gelcoat repair and wrote it up here: “Gelcoat with a PreVal sprayer”. I am helping a friend now that has significant cracking all over the upper body of an older ski he picked up. He had to grind out every crack down to base glass and is at the fairing stage now. Here...

...and personal responsibility takes a hike, again. “Mind the Gap”

Same here. My insurance (US Boat), includes liability and coverage for approved riders.

I now have 250 hrs on my 2011 GTI LTD 155. Amsoil, new plugs was all that was needed as a result of 200 hr inspection. No issues.