Motor locked

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated

Notseadooguru

New Member
Hey all.

My ‘96 GTI is locked up.

Background: It had been running fine, but last week I noticed my wear ring was shredded so I went ahead and replaced it along with all the bearings in the pump (kit included in the link below). Getting off the jet pump was quite difficult, and I ended up yanking the drive shaft along with the pump when it finally came loose. Drive shaft looked good though, and everything went smoothly with replacing parts in the pump and reassembly.

Today I put the drive shaft and pump back on and tried starting it, but couldn’t get it to start. Tried taking out the spark plugs and couldn’t the flywheel to turn over by when. The battery should’ve been at good charge, and even tried jumping it with my buddy’s truck to see if it would turn. We got some very slow rotation with his jump, but eventually it pretty much seized.

Any ideas on what could be wrong here?

I replaced all the parts that came with this kit: OSD Sea Doo MASTER Jet Pump Rebuild Kit #2 (2 Stroke 140 Plastic Pumps) [OSD2152_OEM] - $109.99
 
Maybe the driveline is out of alignment and the impeller is jammed up against the wear ring? By the way, was the truck running when you boosted it? Shouldn’t boost these skis, forget exactly which part but it can damage the electronics
 
I see - there was some friction with the impeller and new wear ring, but I didn’t think it was enough to prevent it from turning over. I’ll take a look at that. If that is the culprit, any tricks to help my impeller and wear ring get along?

And yes the truck was running. Wasn’t aware of this - good to know!
 
I’m not experienced with the wear ring and impeller but I thought it would be something to look at since the old one got chewed up and now having a hard time turning over. Hopefully someone will chime in that can help further. From wha I’ve read I believe the engine alignment can affect the impeller wear ring relationship. I would start by just visually inspecting the impeller and wear ring with a good flashlight. Look for equal spacing. If you check in the manual there are specs to check the clearance with feeler gauges. Also could check and see how easily it difficult it turns over by hand with the plugs out. Perhaps the impeller and wear ring are perfectly fine, I just thought it would be one place to look.
 
Will do, I’ll give it a look over.

The flywheel doesn’t budge even with the spark plugs out. I suppose my best bet at this point is taking off the pump and driveshaft and seeing if it turns over by hand. If it does, I suppose I’ve narrowed it to those two and can do further inspection.
 
Will do, I’ll give it a look over.

The flywheel doesn’t budge even with the spark plugs out. I suppose my best bet at this point is taking off the pump and driveshaft and seeing if it turns over by hand. If it does, I suppose I’ve narrowed it to those two and can do further inspection.
Sounds like the best plan, if the engine was running prior to the wear ring instal. Again hopefully someone else chimes in but from what I’ve seen you should probably align the engine. Unless you end up seeing something else that pops out at you. Good luck
 
Another detail that I forgot to mention: I was having the time of my life trying to keep the rubber bumper in place on the PTO end of the driveshaft. Upon trying to reinstall the driveshaft, the bumper came loose in the PTO. I removed the rubber boot on the PTO to try to pry it out, but gave up probably too quickly and left it in there assuming that if I got the nipple of the bumper to face toward the rear of the ski, the driveshaft would seat correctly on it when I put it back on. This is my first time doing this and probably wasn’t the wisest move, but if that bumper didn’t seat correctly and is lodged sideways in the PTO, could that be the culprit here?

Either way, when I disassemble this afternoon I’ll be sure to dig it out and properly attach it to the driveshaft.
 
Another detail that I forgot to mention: I was having the time of my life trying to keep the rubber bumper in place on the PTO end of the driveshaft. Upon trying to reinstall the driveshaft, the bumper came loose in the PTO. I removed the rubber boot on the PTO to try to pry it out, but gave up probably too quickly and left it in there assuming that if I got the nipple of the bumper to face toward the rear of the ski, the driveshaft would seat correctly on it when I put it back on. This is my first time doing this and probably wasn’t the wisest move, but if that bumper didn’t seat correctly and is lodged sideways in the PTO, could that be the culprit here?

Either way, when I disassemble this afternoon I’ll be sure to dig it out and properly attach it to the driveshaft.
I will honk that could be a good possibility especially if everything looks good around impeller. Try a fab of grease on the bumper to hold it in place til you get the driveshaft in. If the bumper is done you can get them
At OSDparts.com
 
Take needle nose pliers to remove bumper from pto. When installing bumper into driveline, I apply a little marine grease and as you push bumper into driveshaft, take a small flathead screwdriver and push along stem of bumper. That will allow air to escape from end of driveline as push bumper in.
 
Take needle nose pliers to remove bumper from pto. When installing bumper into driveline, I apply a little marine grease and as you push bumper into driveshaft, take a small flathead screwdriver and push along stem of bumper. That will allow air to escape from end of driveline as push bumper in.
Now that yo mention that I think I recall people making a small hole in the bumper
 
It sounds like the thrust washer is locked,,,remove the prop,,,and when you go to tighten the prop again, I always spin the pump as and lift it up and down as I torque the prop,,,then you will never jam/lock the thrust washer.
 
Back
Top