1998 GTX Limited Oil Pump Output

[Mraw]

No, The pump is on the front cover, ill send a picture in a couple minitues

 

[Mraw]

Just two bolts holding it in and it comes right out

 

[val-e-vue]

Gregg, thanks for the info from your testing. Strange how on this forum you can get wildly varying comments/suggestions. It baffles me how I can run the ski without overtemp or lock up without premixing yet I see no oil out of the oil lines. I want to remove the oil pump for a closer inspection. How much effort is it and anything to watch out for. I have already had the carb out so I can repeat that but don't know what to expect with the oil pump. thanks.

Most likely as you open the throttle you start getting some oil, at least that is what I have seen. You might even find that you get the proper amount of oil at full throttle. When you test you really want to verify that you get the right amount of oil because it can clearly change the life expectancy of your engine. Granted we don't idle these engines much, but the idea of idling with absolutely no oil flow is not right. I'm not sure I can explain the cavalier attitude about oil pumps in this forum. It may go back to the fact that the shop manual only provides a WOT specification. Therefore there is not much attention paid to oil production at lower throttle settings.

On the GTX limited, I was able to remove the glove box and reach the two socket head screws that hold the pump on the magneto housing. It was very miserable because the you can't see and work at the same time. So it took awhile to learn my way around with no visual feedback. Disconnect the oil pump cable at the carburetor first because that will allow the oil pump cable cam to rotate to a position where both socket head screws are visible.

Since you have already dropped the carburetors, you can easily remove the manifolds that hold the injectors. I would not disconnect any of the lines. I would take the tank, pump and manifolds with all the hoses connected. That way you can test the entire system as-is. The only thing you will be disconnecting is the top of the filler pipe and the pump cable. Drag it all out onto the bench and have some fun.

Gregg

 

[Chester]

Won't I have to first remove the intake manifold from the engine and then the pump gear to remove the pump from the intake manifold?

Yes, you will have to intake remove the manifold from the engine and remove the gear first. You might find it easier to remove it with the rotary valve cover and then take it apart.

Chester

 

[thelederfam]

I have the 717 single carb engine. Perhaps my engine is disassembled differently. The manual shows that I have to remove the intake manifold first.

 

[thelederfam]

Chester, I see that detailed in the manual. Should I order the seals/gaskets shown for the intake manifold and the rotary valve cover? Will I need the "gear holder" tool shown in the manual to loosen the pump gear lock nut?