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  1. #1
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    Default Oil in the Crankcase

    Hey guys:

    94 SXP with a 657. Putting her back together after some engine work. I hooked up the oil connections, then without thinking, I took the pinchers off the oil lines. With the trailer pitched up, it filled the block with oil and oil was running out the exhaust port of the MAG cylinder.

    I tipped it a little and drained a fair bit out, but how much is too much? Do I need to tip the whole thing over and let it all drain?

    Thanks!

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  3. #2
    Seadoobuddy's Avatar
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    Default

    It's not suppose to fill the crankcase full of oil.

    You have a leak somewhere around the seals.
    Last edited by Seadoobuddy; 10-30-11 at 04:20 PM.

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  4. #3
    LouDoo's Avatar
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    Default

    You have a two stroke engine, it doesn't get crankcase oil, you need to get as much out as you can. You've probably got bad crank seals.

    Lou
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  5. #4
    Bills86e's Avatar
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    Default

    Maybe made a mistake of oil line where cooling line attaches? On the lower exhaust manifold is a cylinder drain line. Below that on the lower case is the oil cavity gear return line to the oil tank.

    http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....&B=13&Action=O
    http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....&B=14&Action=O

    Here is a carb side pic for reference. Copper drains were added to this motor, and you can see the large cavity oil line nipple in the lower case.
    http://www.pwctoday.com/photopost521...4&ppuser=46023

    Hope this helps
    Bills86e

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  6. #5
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    Default

    Thx Bill. In your second link, the line in the lower LH corner is what was running. It runs from the oil filter to the bottom of the injection pump. When I pulled the line off the filter, oil was running out pretty well. What's going on?

    http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....&B=14&Action=O

    Thx!

    Quote Originally Posted by Bills86e View Post
    Maybe made a mistake of oil line where cooling line attaches? On the lower exhaust manifold is a cylinder drain line. Below that on the lower case is the oil cavity gear return line to the oil tank.

    http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....&B=13&Action=O
    http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....&B=14&Action=O

    Here is a carb side pic for reference. Copper drains were added to this motor, and you can see the large cavity oil line nipple in the lower case.
    http://www.pwctoday.com/photopost521...4&ppuser=46023

    Hope this helps
    Bills86e

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  7. #6
    Bills86e's Avatar
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    Default

    Gravity! After you connect it and zip tie it securely on the injection pump nipple, loosen the bolt thats between that nipple and the lever arm to let any air bubble escape, then tighten. With motor at idle you can hand pull the lever counter-clockwise to prime the two injection lines to the RV spigot tubes in the RV cover.

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  8. #7
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    Default

    Thanks Bill. I knew it was just gravity running from the reservoir, but I'm not sure I understand what stops this from happening any other time. I found the bleeding section in the manual, but what stops this from happening during normal use? Do I have bad seals somewhere (like was mentioned above)?

    Thanks again!

    Quote Originally Posted by Bills86e View Post
    Gravity! After you connect it and zip tie it securely on the injection pump nipple, loosen the bolt thats between that nipple and the lever arm to let any air bubble escape, then tighten. With motor at idle you can hand pull the lever counter-clockwise to prime the two injection lines to the RV spigot tubes in the RV cover.

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  9. #8
    Bills86e's Avatar
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    Default

    You are dealing with two gravity fed oil systems. The injection pump is rotary shaft spindle driven to pump oil to the carb flange RV cover spigots, where the oil gets squirted into the gas-air mixture and enters the two lower cases compartments where it lubs the crank journals,
    piston wrist pin bearings and cylinder walls. The other is a rotary gear circulation system that is fed by the large 12mm hose on oil tank bottom, and the helical action of the two rotary gears circulate the oil tru the gear cavity, out the exhaust side of the cases, and pushes it until it falls back into the top of the oil tank. There are seals in the cavity on each side of the gear, on the crankshaft. When they go bad they leak oil into the case compartment below the piston. When it becomes excessive like smoking out exhaust, its time to replace the crank as the fix for leaky seals. The two small 3/32"id oil lines need replaced every 2-3 years. They are Tygon weedeater fuel line. The other oil & fuel lines every 5 years. We recommend ethanol (alcohol) resistant fuel lines like Bingo or Gates or Goodyear.

    Bills86e

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  10. #9
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    Default

    So it would seem that my crank seals are not sealing then, correct? I put a rebuilt crankshaft into this engine this summer, so the crank seals are brand new. If this is case, I've got a MAJOR problem with my supplier.

    How could they be bad right off the bat?

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  11. #10
    Minnetonka4me's Avatar
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    Its possible that they didnt find their groove as you put it together..? They need a little sealant around the outer lip too when you assemble.
    Current part out list; Click below to view pictures. PM for availability & pricing





    Ride it like you ain't got a dime in it!!!

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