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  1. #1
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    Default Need to lift boat from trailer - Sportster 1800

    I need to lift my Sportster 1800 up some so I can repair some hull damage right in in the middle of the boat between the pumps. I looks like the previous owner ran it in some shallow water since there is some fiberglass damage. My issue is the damage is right where the support is for the boat and I have like 2"-3" tops to work with. I would like to double my space, but I am not sure where I can safely raise my boat.

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  3. #2
    Senior Member John in Valley Forge's Avatar
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    Default

    I think that building a cradle that would mimic the trailer bunks would not be too hard, but how do you lift a 3/4 ton boat off the trailer?
    Since I have the same boat with what sounds like similar scrapes, I will be watching.

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  4. #3
    Seadoobuddy's Avatar
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    Default

    There have a couple threads on this since July. Search for them. Someone suggested tying the boat to a tree and pull the trailer out slowly and let the boat fall on tires. But that keeps it outside to work on and then how do you get back on the trailer? This tip may have been for skis.

    How about building a cradle on wheels then pull the boat onto that by winching it.
    How about lifting it high enough to work on but letting it rest on some 4x4 (on trailer) covered in carpet with some side supports?
    Use a couple engine hoists to help?????
    Keep us posted.

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  5. #4
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    Outside wouldn't work since I am in Illinois and we are in the 50's now and 40's in evening to cold to glass outside. I have 30'x42' heated pole barn; so I can work on it in the cold. I do have a 2 ton engine hoist and that might w'ork lifting up the rear of the boat with straps and put carpeted boards under it. I use the hoist to pull PWC engines so I don't see why I cant lift the boat a few inches with it. Suck the 30gallons of gas out to help and I should be able to do it. I would be happy with just 2" more lift. I would be scarred to move that heavy and big of a craft from a stand to trailer with out a A-frame lift that just sounds bad. It sucks movng jet ski like that and I do that every season.

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  6. #5
    Seadoobuddy's Avatar
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    I think you solved your dilemma. 30X42 heated pole barn..with hoist....I'm jealous.
    That's how i did work on the bottom on my nephews Yahama, lift and support...just enough room.
    Post some pics when you get to it.

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  7. #6
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    after looking over the boat I don't know how to get a strap all around it. I can't see using the tie downs to lift it. So I have another idea use my floor jacks with boards on it to lift it enogh to slide a 2x6 on each side. There is enough room on the side of the 2x6 to fit a 2x4. You can't lift to much because the keel could hit the front of the trailer since my shorelandr only has 4"-5" gap up front if you lift to much.

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  8. #7
    Seadoobuddy's Avatar
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    Right, keep a watch out for the trailer lifting when you jack up the boat..it happened to me but with a ski trailer. I also used a floor jack since i was only lifting the back of a ski. With wood pieces on the top of the jack to lift higher...(old jack).

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  9. #8
    Senior Member Cid6.7's Avatar
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    Hehehe my father & I were staring @ my boat the other day trying to figure out how to do this as well..

    If you have the right lift/barn whatever to hoist the boat up with straps put them around the skids as well & just undo the skids from the trailer.. pull trailer out, when done fiddeling with boat put trailer back lower boat & realign the skid bolts..Obviously you want to wrap padding around the straps

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  10. #9
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    The easiest way to lift the rear would be to take the boat to the water and let it float on the trailer and put some more boards in at the end of the boat, but I pulled the jet pumps off already so I will try to jack the back end of the boat up to put the boards in. I wish they designed the trailers with more room underneath. 2"-3" more inches would of been great.

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  11. #10
    Experienced Rider parrothd's Avatar
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    For my repair I set it on blocks....

    Use a jack to raise the trailer(both sides), then use bricks/wood blocks to support the boat then lower the trailer, depending on where set the blocks you can then pull the trailer forward to get access..

    I put my blocking near the rear between the trailer and the bunk, combination of cinder blocks, bricks, 2x4 and some carpet. If you extend the wheel jack all the way then you can lower the front onto front blocks and then roll the trailer forward.

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  12. #11
    Experienced Rider parrothd's Avatar
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    Also, if you look there's a flat(ish) area on the outside rear sides and the front keel section, these are easier to support than the angled sections..

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  13. #12
    Experienced Rider
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    That sounds like a good idea. I have a flat area in the middle for sure and I think there is some on the side also.

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  14. #13
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    I drained the fuel from the boat to make it lighter. I used 6 cinder blocks and 3 2x6's with carpet on them. I jacked up the trailer w/2 floor jacks. Put the blocks and wood in 3 different places right in the middle of the boat on the flat section that runs from keel to stern. Lowered the jacks and moved the trailer forward 18" so I can repair the section I need to.

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  15. #14
    Experienced Rider parrothd's Avatar
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    Make sure you wear a really good mask and eye protection, you should get some disposable full suits from home depot too..Fiberglass/gelcoat gets dust everywhere, I got a huge stye that swelled my eye almost closed, probably from not wearing enough good protection and then rubbing my eye...



    (I edited this 3 times, I'm on drugs for my acl surgery... )

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  16. #15
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    I sanded for a few mins to see how much dust would come out. There is a ton of it. I will mask off the area of the boat and bring out the shop vac to to suck it up. All I have to say they drove that baby in shallow water I can see how large the area was, they must of ran it aground somewhere. The 1 jet pump area is all banged up real bad, they tried to fix it 1/2 assed and didn't want to remove the plastic pump plate so I will remove it and fix itcorrectly. They had to kill a impeller since the one I pulled out was not as bad as the damage was, but the stater veins are all broken on that pump the other pump veins were damaged not as bad. I found 2 very good shape used bronze pumps ($60 each) I am going to put on it instead. Those babys are stonger and take a rock or 2 in them. They are much heavier than the old pumps. Beats paying $225 each for new pumps. I do need new wearrings those the bearing and seals are in good shape on the used pumps.

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  17. #16
    Experienced Rider parrothd's Avatar
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    Used is the way to go, all 787 seadoo PWC use the same parts so check those forums for parts, make sure you get the neoprene seals that go between the pump and the boat, they're like $2, makes life so much easier when you need to pull a pump for ropes/damages..

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  18. #17
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    My old pumps had nothing there. No seal or silcon. I was kind of supried about that. I will get he neoprene seals.

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  19. #18
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    Default IF the damage is way back...

    If the damage is way back, you might consider leaving the boat a little out, so that the section to repair is hanging outside the trailer?....never mind, I saw you got it lifted.

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  20. #19
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    the boat is pulled about 18" back, most of the area is repaired now. Just have to do some smothing and gelcoating.

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  21. #20
    Experienced Rider parrothd's Avatar
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    Let me know how the gel coating turns out, mine looks like orange peel, I need to add a few more layers and sand it out, but I'm just going to sell it..

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