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    Dr Honda's Avatar
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    Default How To: Changing Your Wear Ring

    Hi Guys,

    As most of you know, when someone on this board says "I have cavitation"... the normal response is... "Change your wear ring." But... most of you guys have never done it, and are a little scared to pop the jet pump off of your boat. So what happens?? you take it to a dealer where they say... "You need an impeller, and a pump rebuild. So, Mr Smith... please bend over as we shove this $1000 repair bill up your A-- ! "


    This post is to show you that it's very easy to change your wear ring with basic tools. The only special tool you will need is an impeller tool. You can get them on eBay for as little as $15 shipped, or from the site sponsor for a reasonable price. (and it supports this board)


    So... Let's get started.


    Remove the Pump


    I'm not going to give a full pictorial on this because it is simple.

    1) Remove the cooling hose from inside the hull. (and bailer hoses if you have them) They are on the transom, and held on with hose clamps.

    2) Remove any cables hooked to the pump. (Steering, Reverse, and VTS)

    3) Remove the nozzle. (4 bolts)

    4) remove the pump. (4 nuts)


    NOTES: The pump may be glued on if some hill-billy mechanic worked on it. So carefully pry it away from the hull. Also, there may be shims under the pump studs. Mark them, and their location. It is important to put them back in the proper location to keep your drive shaft aligned.


    Now that the pump is out... go to the work bench, and lets start.

    As you can see, the clearance on this ring was still very tight, but the surface is very scared. This ring was only showing cavitation at a full throttle hit, from a dead stop. For most people, it was still acceptable, but I like to be able to mash it after I spin out.








    Disassembly


    First thing to do is remove the tail cone. There are 3 screws holding it on. Remove them, and give it a little twist to break the seal. Now, before you remove the cone, hold it over the trash can, or a little bowl. There is gear lube in it, and it's going to spill out once you open it. Now... let it drain for a couple minutes. If your pump is in good shape... your oil should be clean and have a Honey color to it. (and be very clear)





    Now, see the flats on the shaft? Put that in a vice. This will hold the shaft, and give you a nice way to work on it.

    At this point, you should be looking at the front of the impeller. Remove the rubber cone seal from the front, and install your impeller removal tool. Then, with your favorite wrench... twist it off the pump shaft.

    BTW... With the impeller out, there is nothing holding the pump on to the shaft. So if you lift the housing, it will come off the shaft.






    Now we cut the ring. I prefer to use a demolition saw. It make short work of an old ring. But, half of a hack saw blade, with a short handle will work too.


    You want to cut, just though the ring. Take your time, and make sure you don't cut the pump. With a factory ring, its easy to tell. As soon as the white dust disapers... stop. (you just went though the fiberglass core)










    Now, tap a screw driver down both sides, to make sure that the ring is split, and, lift one side over the other. This will relive any pressure holding it in.












    Once you do that... just walk the screw driver around the top, and it will slowly lift out. (some times this will just lift out, after they are split)














    If you have an aluminum housing... you may need to lightly sand away any oxidation. But if you have a plastic pump, just wipe it clean.



    Installation



    If you buy a factory ring (I recommend it) you will have no issues with it fitting. It should be a light press fit. It should tap in with a rubber mallet, or the rubber grip of a regular hammer. If you only have a metal hammer, use a block of wood to protect the new ring.







    Now, you can put your impeller back in. Clean the shaft, and check the seals. If they look good, put a few drops of RED thread locker on the shaft, and install the impeller. Be careful as you install it. You don't want to gouge the new ring. Also, as you are putting it back in... rock the housing back and forth to make sure it doesn't start to bind as it gets tight. After it's tightened down, you will notice some "in and out" play. This is normal if you don't have a cone with a pushing device in it.

    Don't forget to put your cone seal back in the impeller, and make sure that the rubber bumper is in the end of the drive shaft, and not down in the impeller. After that... put a bunch of grease in the impeller splines, and go back out to the boat







    Reinstall the pump




    Put the pump back on the boat, the same way you took it off. Be sure to install a new neoprene seal on the pump shoe. Also, since your cone is still off... you can grab it, and twist the impeller to help line up the splines on the drive shaft.













    Now install the cone, and top it off with your favorite 75-90 synthetic gear lube.

    Now, install the nozzle, VTS, reverse gate, and check for proper operation.

    Total time is around an hour.

    Hope this helps.





    Update for the 4-tech pumps


    Hi all.

    OK... for the majority of the people who will need a pump service... the above info is what you need. But, I have had a few people ask about the newer pumps, and there was a member (stinky) who was nice enough to send some pictures of a absolutely melted 4-tech pump.

    So... here are the differences.



    The melted pump









    use a 12mm Allen key to hold your pump shaft










    Use grease instead of the 75w-90 gear lube

    After you get the new ring in... you fill the open spaces with your favorite waterproof grease. Some will squash out.


    Last edited by Dr Honda; 08-02-10 at 09:36 AM.
    Tony
    Prez, A&L Motorsports, LLC
    PM or post for help. Don't leave questions in my profile box. (i never check it)

    I'm not going to be able to do vinyl or carbs for a while. Starting my new job is taking a lot of time

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  3. #2
    freebie fixer scooper77515's Avatar
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    Default

    Very good write up and nice pictures.

    A suggestion: I find wear ring replacements to be a good time to inspect/replace bearings, and swap the oil in the cone and pressure test.

    Can we make this a sticky and add those items? Or maybe it would be better to do those as separate threads but link to them from here.

    Mods, feel free to delete this post if needed.
    I just wanna go fast, get wet, and have fun...

    And if you get bored check out my Maverick website http://scooper77515.fordmaverick.net/index.htm

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    Default

    Stickied the thread. Great work on this!
    Performance SeaDoo Parts - PWCMuscle.com

    Looking for OEM Seadoo parts? Try SeadooWarehouse.com

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  5. #4
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    hi i have a 95 seadoo gtx.. well it runs perfect in my driveway but when i go to the water it boggs down on me any ideas, fuel filter, mabe it gets to much oil and how would i ajust that?

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    Default Nice Job. What pump was that.

    Anything on the Merc. 2002 200hp single merc optimax?

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    Default You r a hero

    I have a question is the do it yourself wear ring job that you provided is the same to a 1999 SEADOO GTX RFI because im in that same boat soon....Thanks hope to hear from you soon

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  8. #7
    Dr Honda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gattoo View Post
    I have a question is the do it yourself wear ring job that you provided is the same to a 1999 SEADOO GTX RFI because im in that same boat soon....Thanks hope to hear from you soon
    Yes. The procedure is the same for all seadoo's.

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    Default 2005 rxp

    Hi folks,

    Just came aboard while looking for instructions and parts for a wear ring replacement.

    Dr. Honda, this is an irreplaceable post and, if I may, exactly what I needed to pick up my tools, thanks.

    The cone on my pump does not have a fill hole of any kind.

    Does this mean I get to replace the cone on the pump with the impeller side up?

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  10. #9
    Dr Honda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stinky187 View Post
    Hi folks,

    Just came aboard while looking for instructions and parts for a wear ring replacement.

    Dr. Honda, this is an irreplaceable post and, if I may, exactly what I needed to pick up my tools, thanks.

    Thanks. I try to help when I can.



    Quote Originally Posted by Stinky187 View Post
    The cone on my pump does not have a fill hole of any kind.

    Does this mean I get to replace the cone on the pump with the impeller side up?


    On the new 4-tech SeaDoo's... they have changed to grease. Just pack it with a good waterproof grease when you put it back together.

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    Great thanks,

    Any suggestions on the grease? my parts will be here by the end of the week.

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    Thanks Tony,

    Just spoke to Scott at Parker Yamaha and thankfully, my order hasn't shipped so he swapped out the jet pump oil for the jet pump grease.

    Thanks again for the insight

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    SWEET POST WE DONE 3 LAST SUMMER & 3 SETS OF BEARINGS , wish i saw this last summer , we looked like a couple monkeys there for a few days lol, this hole site is great

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    Default Chaning to wear ring

    I changed the wear ring and everything looks good to go, I went to install it and it looks like everything thing is great on the bolt side of the pump. But when I look on the drive shaft side it looks like there may be some teeth still showing, I'm talking about a small amount. Is this normal? I do not remeber what it looked like when I pulled the pump. Also a quick note. I had the impeller re manufactured as well due to something getting in there and tearing everything apart. Now when I do crank the engine and or start it I hear a crackling noise coming from most likely inside the engine. Does anyone know what this could be after rebuilding the water pump. Is it not catching the drive shaft properly or do I have maybe some type of internal engine damage. I have heard this one time and had to rebuild the engine with new pistons rings and etc.. This was many years ago.

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    Experienced Rider SurfBeat's Avatar
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    Dr. H: That was a great Thread. In fact, one of the best, if not THE best I've read.

    Now, if you can re-name it, "Changing Wear Ring For Dummies," then all of us Dummies will be able to find it easily.

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  16. #15
    Junior Member mookerblu's Avatar
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    I am planning on replacing my wear ring (on a RXP PWC) as soon as I get the parts, I just need a little clarification. As far as parts to order I would need the wear ring and a new neoprene seal (parts #2 & #3 on this page
    http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....=13&A=149&B=15)

    I would also like to replace the impeller. Do I just need the Impeller assy (#17 from above page) or do i need more parts? (like the boot assembly).

    I just don't want to get everything all apart and realize that I need another part! Thanks in advance
    I love my RXP

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    Great thread

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  18. #17
    Dr Honda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mookerblu View Post
    I am planning on replacing my wear ring (on a RXP PWC) as soon as I get the parts, I just need a little clarification. As far as parts to order I would need the wear ring and a new neoprene seal (parts #2 & #3 on this page
    http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....=13&A=149&B=15)
    Yes.

    Quote Originally Posted by mookerblu View Post
    I would also like to replace the impeller. Do I just need the Impeller assy (#17 from above page) or do i need more parts? (like the boot assembly).

    I just don't want to get everything all apart and realize that I need another part! Thanks in advance
    I wouldn't bother with the factory replacement. I would change to a skat-trak swirl for more low end grunt, and better accelleration... or a Solas Concord for better top speed.

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    Junior Member ddaverowee's Avatar
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    dr honda i have allready learned heaps from your post's, verry helpfull this one is perfect, i hope you never leave this site, Thanks for all your help!

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    Default my experience

    This job is fairly simple but can be very frustrating.
    I bought my wear ring on ebay.
    Taking it out was a pain, but if you cut it all the way through and then MAKE sure it overlaps coming out it should break free easily.
    Getting the new wear ring in was a whole other story. I ended up having to take it to a buddies house to use the 12 ton press to get it in and even that was groaning and creaking. Not an easy fit.
    My input...

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  21. #20
    Dr Honda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodstockaz View Post
    ... I bought my wear ring on ebay.
    ................ I ended up having to take it to a buddies house to use the 12 ton press to get it in and even that was groaning and creaking. Not an easy fit.
    Thanks for that.

    Was your ring an OEM SeaDoo ring, or was it an aftermarket ring? Most of the time, the OEM rings are just a "Tap in" fit.

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  22. #21
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    It was an OEM ring. extremely tight fit. No way I could have done it by hand. In hindsight I should have put it in the freezer for a while first and it probably would have gone in easier.

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  23. #22
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    Great write up. Just finished doing the one on my wifes GTX and it was too easy. The only bad thing is I'm embarrassed how bad the old one was I took out. Should run great for her now..

    THANKS!!

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  24. #23
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    Hi there again i was wondering if you had a post with pictures on how all the washers and bearings should look and how to put them all back in in order?

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  25. #24
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    ^That and how do you do a pressure test/where do i get the tools to do it?

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  26. #25
    Dr Honda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lauren bailey View Post
    Hi there again i was wondering if you had a post with pictures on how all the washers and bearings should look and how to put them all back in in order?
    Sorry... no, I dot' have any pictures of a pump rebuild. Snipe has some in "Snipes Corner."

    Quote Originally Posted by Donnyd21 View Post
    ^That and how do you do a pressure test/where do i get the tools to do it?
    You can make a test tool with a simple air pump and a gauge. Just thread it into the oil fill hole, and pressurize the pump.

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