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  1. ☑ ORIGINAL POSTER #1
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    Default 2000 Islandia trouble shoot!!! HELP!!!

    Just the other day I purchased a 2000 Islandia that runs but doesnt "RUN". lol Let me explain. For the record, I bought it as a project. The motor is the merc 240 efi V6 with M2 jet drive. So last year the previous owner had the jet pump rebuilt and new pinion gears installed. He used it for est 6hrs or so and this spring when de-winterizing noticed the impeller wasnt spinning again (assuming its teh same issue) he Sold it DIRTTTTTT cheap out of frustration and im hoping to get it up and running. I verified this evening that the shaft/impeller are NOT spinning while the motor runs. So my question is, do i need to do the gears again? is there a sheer pin that could've slipped when the mechanic put it back together? can you drop the jet drive w/out taking out the motor? Please help.

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  3. ☑ ORIGINAL POSTER #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by smiller View Post
    Just the other day I purchased a 2000 Islandia that runs but doesnt "RUN". lol Let me explain. For the record, I bought it as a project. The motor is the merc 240 efi V6 with M2 jet drive. So last year the previous owner had the jet pump rebuilt and new pinion gears installed. He used it for est 6hrs or so and this spring when de-winterizing noticed the impeller wasnt spinning again (assuming its teh same issue) he Sold it DIRTTTTTT cheap out of frustration and im hoping to get it up and running. I verified this evening that the shaft/impeller are NOT spinning while the motor runs. So my question is, do i need to do the gears again? is there a sheer pin that could've slipped when the mechanic put it back together? can you drop the jet drive w/out taking out the motor? Please help.


    Nobody has any direction for me? BUMP TTT

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  4. #3
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    Hi... welcome... ect.


    Unfortunately, the Mercury drive system was only used for a few years, and most of us don't have any experience with it. I think the only person with any inside info is Rookie101, but I haven't seen him around much.

    Now... just talking as a mechanic...

    If the gears were new, and they failed... then there are only a few things that could have happened.

    1) the oil seals were bad (or the shafts were warn, and caused the seals to fail)
    2) the gears were not set-up properly. I don't know if you can set the lash and depth on them or not.

    I will see if I can find out anything, and get back to you, but for now... you probably just have to take the system apart to see what happened.

    As far as I know... the engine mounts to the jet drive, so to get to the gears... the powerhead has to be removed.
    Tony

    PM or post for help. Don't leave questions in my profile box. (i never check it)

    I'm not going to be able to do vinyl or carbs for a while. Starting my new job is taking a lot of time

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    OK... I just looked over the manual.

    1) yes, the engine will have to come out to get to the pinion gear.

    2) Yes, the gear depth must be set so the gears don't eat them selves. (it may not have been done properly)

    3) No, there is no shear key in the system, but the gear on the driveshaft is on splines, and if the nut that holds it on comes loose... the splines will strip.

    If I were you... no mater what you find... I would do a full rebuild. 2 new gears, all new bearings, new seals. I know it may be a little overkill, but it's such a pain to get to the gears on the M2... I would only want to do it once. If you replace everything... then it will be trouble free for the next 10 years.

    Take it apart, and post some pics of what you find. It will help us all.

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  6. ☑ ORIGINAL POSTER #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Honda View Post
    OK... I just looked over the manual.

    1) yes, the engine will have to come out to get to the pinion gear.

    2) Yes, the gear depth must be set so the gears don't eat them selves. (it may not have been done properly)

    3) No, there is no shear key in the system, but the gear on the driveshaft is on splines, and if the nut that holds it on comes loose... the splines will strip.

    If I were you... no mater what you find... I would do a full rebuild. 2 new gears, all new bearings, new seals. I know it may be a little overkill, but it's such a pain to get to the gears on the M2... I would only want to do it once. If you replace everything... then it will be trouble free for the next 10 years.

    Take it apart, and post some pics of what you find. It will help us all.

    I appreciate all your help an That was what i was intending on doing unles someone had any other suggestions. I too was under the assumption that the mechanic who fixed it last (who i actually spoke too) didnt shim the gear properly and it chewed itself up. Gonna take it out and either rebuild or buy one already done. Located a guy in Illinois who has a few in stock from his race boats for $1500 with the factory impeller. After some research that seemed to be well priceed if the wear ring and impller on mine happen to be scarred too. Either way ill keep the forum posted on my success. Thanks again!

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    Default I agree with Dr. Honda...

    I have your exact engine and jetdrive and work on them all the time...

    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Honda View Post
    1) yes, the engine will have to come out to get to the pinion gear.
    Yep. You have to pull the engine. Once you get over the anger of doing it, it's not actually all that hard. A few harnesses and cables, about a dozen bolts, and it lifts right out. You'll need the Mercury lifting eye that screws into the top of the flywheel; there are no other lifting points.

    {edit} Oh, yeah - buy a replacement for the gasket that sits between the engine block and the adapter plate on top of the jetdrive. Those have a tendency to deteriorate over time and you have to pull the engine to replace it. Since you'll already be there... you get the idea.

    2) Yes, the gear depth must be set so the gears don't eat them selves. (it may not have been done properly)
    Almost definitely did NOT get set properly. If the engine is running OK (meaning the crankshaft is probably not bent), then the problem is likely with the impeller shaft setup.

    If I were you... no mater what you find... I would do a full rebuild. 2 new gears, all new bearings, new seals. I know it may be a little overkill, but it's such a pain to get to the gears on the M2... I would only want to do it once. If you replace everything... then it will be trouble free for the next 10 years.
    100% agree. Do it once, do it right, be done with it, enjoy it for a very long time.

    (prohibited content removed)

    Parts are available through any Mercury engine shop, online from various sources, and sometimes even on eBay.

    Report back!
    Last edited by WAJetboating; 05-17-10 at 03:53 PM.

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  8. ☑ ORIGINAL POSTER #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by WAJetboating View Post
    I have your exact engine and jetdrive and work on them all the time...



    Yep. You have to pull the engine. Once you get over the anger of doing it, it's not actually all that hard. A few harnesses and cables, about a dozen bolts, and it lifts right out. You'll need the Mercury lifting eye that screws into the top of the flywheel; there are no other lifting points.

    {edit} Oh, yeah - buy a replacement for the gasket that sits between the engine block and the adapter plate on top of the jetdrive. Those have a tendency to deteriorate over time and you have to pull the engine to replace it. Since you'll already be there... you get the idea.



    Almost definitely did NOT get set properly. If the engine is running OK (meaning the crankshaft is probably not bent), then the problem is likely with the impeller shaft setup.



    100% agree. Do it once, do it right, be done with it, enjoy it for a very long time.

    (prohibited content removed)

    Parts are available through any Mercury engine shop, online from various sources, and sometimes even on eBay.

    Report back!
    UPDATE!!!!!!!
    Ok so i have a minor update. When I got the boat i mentioned the motor ran but the impeller shaft did not spin. Sunday i had some time to get down on the basics, while draining what i thought would be lower gear lube from the gearcase behind the intake grate i was suprised to see nothing but WATER come out (as if the mechanic who did the job before never put any in wtf?) in addition the ring seals on teh drain plugs were missing which i assumed let in some water from the few times the previous owner used it last season. very few if next to no metal shavings on the drain plug magnets. I proceeded to put a wrench on the impeller shaft and it broke loose. wiggled it a bit, put some gear lube in and fired her up. WHALAH!!! the damn thing spins. Any idea what happened? might i be in the clear? could the water have frozen and knocked the gears out of alignment and rust caused the shaft to seize a bit?

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    Since it's spinning now... you probably stripped the splines off the drive shaft, or the driven gear. There is no way for the gears to "Deflect" in the housing. I bet if you gave the impeller a good twist... it would move independent of the engine.

    It needs to come apart. Not to mention... if there was water in the gears... the gears and bearings are done.

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  10. ☑ ORIGINAL POSTER #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Honda View Post
    Since it's spinning now... you probably stripped the splines off the drive shaft, or the driven gear. There is no way for the gears to "Deflect" in the housing. I bet if you gave the impeller a good twist... it would move independent of the engine.

    It needs to come apart. Not to mention... if there was water in the gears... the gears and bearings are done.
    let me re-phrase, i cant manually spin the shaft but it turns when the motor runs

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    Default Betcha it won't spin much once it's in the water...

    It spins on the trailer because there's no load on the impeller. I bet if it was in the water you wouldn't go very far or very fast.

    Break it down. Too much is wrong. Too many details are in question.

    Or, sell it to me for $1000 and I'll let you know what I found wrong with it! {grin}

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    Quote Originally Posted by smiller View Post
    let me re-phrase, i cant manually spin the shaft but it turns when the motor runs
    I understand what you were saying before... but there isn't a clutch, or a slip point in the drive system. if you verified in the past that the engine ran, and the impeller wasn't spinning... then it needs to come apart because something is very wrong. right now, it's a gearbox rebuild. if you try to run it, the gears could break, or a bearing can "spin"... in turn... destroying your housing.

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  13. ☑ ORIGINAL POSTER #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Honda View Post
    I understand what you were saying before... but there isn't a clutch, or a slip point in the drive system. if you verified in the past that the engine ran, and the impeller wasn't spinning... then it needs to come apart because something is very wrong. right now, it's a gearbox rebuild. if you try to run it, the gears could break, or a bearing can "spin"... in turn... destroying your housing.


    Question, So if i pull out the jet drive is it worth re-building or buying one already re conditioned? do you or anyone reading this have one for sale?
    Last edited by smiller; 05-18-10 at 01:57 PM.

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    Default You have to pull it anyway, so...

    Quote Originally Posted by smiller View Post
    Question, So if i pull out the jet drive is it worth re-building or buying one already re conditioned?
    You have to pull it anyway, so do that and see what's going on. It could be relatively straightforward - bearings, seals, gears, and PROPER setup this time. That would be way less expensive than a whole new jetdrive.

    Most likely the big parts - housing, wear ring, stator, impeller, steering/thrust reverser - are fine. You might end up buying an impeller shaft plus the above parts. That's a few hundred dollars instead of ~$1500.

    Take it apart, take photos, and post them here. We'll try to help.

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    I've seen rebuilt jet pumps for $1700. I'm not sure what the parts will cost... but I'm sure it would be a fraction of that.

    As far as used... I know there is one that has shown up on eBay a few times. As I recall... it was $900, and it was NOT a rebuild... it was a "Good Used" part.

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  16. ☑ ORIGINAL POSTER #15
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    ok one last question before I rip into this biatch. I currently do NOT have access to an engine hoist/crane nor do I have the lifting ring. Can i unbolt the powerhead and lift it off the studs and vertical shaft or is it too heavy?

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    Default You need the lifting eye...

    Quote Originally Posted by smiller View Post
    ok one last question before I rip into this biatch. I currently do NOT have access to an engine hoist/crane nor do I have the lifting ring. Can i unbolt the powerhead and lift it off the studs and vertical shaft or is it too heavy?
    The engine, by itself without the jetdrive, weighs about 250 pounds. Two guys **might** be able to physically lift it off the jetdrive, but then how do you get it out of the hull and someplace safe? You can't climb out of the engine compartment while supporting ~125 pounds safely. Furthermore, I don't know if the hull is rated to support that much weight in the surface area of your foot. Might be too much PSI.

    Get the eye. And you can get an engine lift from Harbor Freight for not much money.

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    Quote Originally Posted by smiller View Post
    ok one last question before I rip into this biatch. I currently do NOT have access to an engine hoist/crane nor do I have the lifting ring. Can i unbolt the powerhead and lift it off the studs and vertical shaft or is it too heavy?
    Sounds like e a good reason t buy one.

    as above... harbor freight, or even Pep Boys. I got mine at pep boys for $89 on a super sale.

    I wouldn't try it by hand. one slip, and you could have a smashed engine, or a bunch of busted fiberglass.

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