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  1. ☑ ORIGINAL POSTER #1
    seadoosnipe's Avatar
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    Default Low ash Quick Silver oil..

    With riding season fast approaching, members may start looking for the Quicksilver oil for the Seadoo's.

    I know, from members online, that some of the Walmarts don't stock the "Synthetic Blend" or the "Full Synthetic" in their stores. One member said the manager told him if he had the UPC code, he could get it ordered and stocked in their store.

    I found this oil in the automotive side of Walmart, not the boat (sporting goods) section. Looking at tht automotive oils, you should see gallons for sale that are Evinrude, etc.... If you do not see the Quicksilver brand of low ash, non NMMA oils, you can use one of the UPC codes below to see if you can get the manager to order it for you.

    I have used this oil for 4 years now in my 97 model 787cc engine and the results from a low carbon build up on my RAVE valves have sold me on it's oiling properties.

    The UPC code for the "Full Synthetic" is.....74506167708 with a part # of 92-85015Q03. The "Synthetic Blend" is.....74506148072 with a part # of 92-858015Q03.

    If you are buying a ski, especially the one from the 90's, not sure of what oil the previous owner used, you can drain the tank of oil by removing the bottom hose from the oil tank, put it back on then fill your oil tank with the "full synthetic". You can go from mineral to synth blend or either of these to full synthetic but you can't go from the higher quality oils back to the lower quality oils without a full clean out of the oil injection system.

    You can leave the oil in your rotary chamber if you like but if your moving from mineral to synthetic, I'd recommend removing it to get the full protection from this higher quality oil.

    Feel free to post here or PM me if you have any questions about your oiling needs.
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  3. #2
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    I decided to browse throgh the oil section at wal mart last night. I did find the Quicksilver gallons. They had a gallon that said PWC on it. When you read the bottle, it does says approved for Sea Doo and that it is low ash and API. Is this the correct oil? There was one that said it had a synthetic blen and a full synthetic. The blend was 28 a gallon and the full synthetic was 38 a gallon. Not much cheaper than the 44 I am paying the Sea Doo dealer for XPS synthetic.

    This is what it looked like.

    http://www.georgiawatersports.com/Pr...38303333513031

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  4. ☑ ORIGINAL POSTER #3
    seadoosnipe's Avatar
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    Default That's it!....

    Quote Originally Posted by RFoster130 View Post
    I decided to browse throgh the oil section at wal mart last night. I did find the Quicksilver gallons. They had a gallon that said PWC on it. When you read the bottle, it does says approved for Sea Doo and that it is low ash and API. Is this the correct oil? There was one that said it had a synthetic blen and a full synthetic. The blend was 28 a gallon and the full synthetic was 38 a gallon. Not much cheaper than the 44 I am paying the Sea Doo dealer for XPS synthetic.

    This is what it looked like.

    http://www.georgiawatersports.com/Pr...38303333513031
    Yeah, you found it. They have the synthetic blend and the full synthetic. For most, it's not about cost, it's about location. Many members, including myself, live anywhere from 1 to 3 hours away from their local Seadoo dealer. The BRP requirements for our injector oil, being a non-nmma, non TCW-3 oil is met by the Quicksilver brand of oil. It is a bit cheaper and actually, offers the same great quality that BRP offers. If you live close to the BRP and want to pay that roughly $10 bucks more, then that's cool.

    Like I said, Seadoo shops in many places are few and far between.

    Also, to use this oil, there is a certain way you need to prepare the ski/boat for it.

    If you currently use Mineral oil, you can allow your oil tank to drain about to the bottom, then fill it up with your synthetic blend. Or, you can fill it up with the full synthetic. But, if your using synthetic blend and want to go backwards, you have to clean out the entire oil system before you add the oil. Mineral oil does not mix with Synthetic but Synthectic will mix in the reverse direction.........

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  5. #4
    RFoster130's Avatar
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    Thanks again Snipe!!! I think I might actually switch to this, $10 bucks a gallon can add up. I actually found the blend on ebay for 18 a gallon shipped. I currently use the XPS synthetic, will I have to drain all that to go to the blend?

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  6. ☑ ORIGINAL POSTER #5
    seadoosnipe's Avatar
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    Default Full synthetic...

    Quote Originally Posted by RFoster130 View Post
    Thanks again Snipe!!! I think I might actually switch to this, $10 bucks a gallon can add up. I actually found the blend on ebay for 18 a gallon shipped. I currently use the XPS synthetic, will I have to drain all that to go to the blend?
    I use full synthetic in my Challenger, 787cc. The reason is because of the synthetics properties of providing the best molecular coverage of all my metal surfaces and it doesn' burn.

    If you move from full synthetic to blend, then yes, you have to clean out your lubrication system. But, I think the XPS is a blend, not full synthetic. So, if you go with the synth blend from Wally world, you should just wait till your oil tank is right close to the bottom, then add your oil.......

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  7. #6
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    Default easy transition

    if you go from full synthetic to a blend you do not have to drain the oil tank the full synthetic and the blend have the same detergants as far as the msds goes just differenty quanities of additives, so going from synthetic to blend is easy according to the recent mercery marine tech. but if you change oil brands such as going from brp to quicksilver, you do.

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  8. #7
    Experienced Rider slowboatn's Avatar
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    The people that had the ski before me used the same oil someone would use in a boat. After much researching here and other ski forums, I decided to not use it. I went to the full synthetic from my Sea Doo dealer. 1 gallon usually lasts me the whole summer. I don't mind paying for it. This is good info though. If I have to and can find it, I will use this Quicksilver. Thanks for the info.

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  9. #8
    Experienced Rider SurfBeat's Avatar
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    Default QuickSilver Injection Oil (PWC or Premimum)

    Having just posted a thread on the bad and the ugly of using TC-W3 in my 587cc, on the advice of SeeDooSnipe and before assembling my engine after a crankshaft replacement, I headed to Wal-Mart to purchase a couple of jugs of QuickSilver PWC oil.

    Unfortunately, my trip was unsuccessful because within a 30 mile radius of Riverside, CA, W-M only carries Quicksilver Premimum Plus which is a TC-W3 oil.

    Not one to be discouraged I visted a local Marine shop and found QS PREMIMUM and Premimum Plus Oils. The PREMIMUM is rated not only TC-W, but also rated API TC, a non-ash oil.

    Based upon hours of research on the great oil debate I've read that albeit low ash oils typically provide added protection to an engine, that fact does not necessarily translate into meaning that we should select engine oil based upon whether or not it is ash or ashless, but what is more important is the oil quality classification., i.e., NAMM/TC-W3, API TC, etc.

    In my case, because my 580 engine has no RAVE, it does not require QS PWC 2-stroke full synthetic (black container), however, using QS PWC (silver container) a mixture of mineral oil and synthetic ingredients, should, in my opinion (shade tree mechanic/teacher/law school grad)) should keep my engine running for another 17 years. It is also a heck of a lot cheaper ($12) than Sea Doo's brand.
    Last edited by SurfBeat; 08-06-10 at 01:04 AM. Reason: Addendum Under Paragraph 5

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  10. #9
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    Why does the sticker next to the fill plug say to fill with synthetic and then in almost the same sentence says that it's ash free? Isn't ash free and ashless the same thing or am I missing something here?

    Speaking of oil, Will this stuff work?http://suncoastmarineoil.com/xd100-2...oilgallon.aspx
    Last edited by Rotor13B; 07-05-10 at 09:32 PM.

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  11. #10
    Experienced Rider SurfBeat's Avatar
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    Nope, Evinrude wont' work because its ASHLESS. A Doo needs the Ass, I mean Low Ash ingredients.

    I presume you own a Doo? If not, then disregard my opinion because many other PWC's don't require an API TC Low Ash Oil and acna use TCW3 Oils.

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  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by SurfBeat View Post
    Nope, Evinrude wont' work because its ASHLESS. A Doo needs the Ass, I mean Low Ash ingredients.

    I presume you own a Doo? If not, then disregard my opinion because many other PWC's don't require an API TC Low Ash Oil and acna use TCW3 Oils.
    Yes, I have two 96 GTX's. I understand what you're saying and why but the sticker by the oil fill plug says ASH FREE. I do use the xps synthetic oil in my pwc's, I was wanting know why it doesn't say low ash instead.

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  13. #12
    Experienced Rider SurfBeat's Avatar
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    That makes no sense. Look at your Operators Guide and it will advise the exact type of oil to use.

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  14. #13
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    Smile Quick Silver Full Synthetic Vs BRP XPS Yellow

    I am unclear as to if it is ok to use the Walmart Quicksilver Full Synthetic in place of the BRP XPS. I have a 2000 GTx-DI and have always used the BRP XPS. The manual just states XP-S DI synthetiic injection oil.

    I live aways from any Sea Doo dealer but like everyone close to a walmart. So it is easier and less costly intially to use the Quicksilver Full Synthetic (If I can) and not incur repair cost later.

    What is the verdict when I have only used the BRP XP-S, am I safe to switch now until I get to a dealer or even continue with the Quicksilver for the year?

    Thanks

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  15. #14
    Experienced Rider SurfBeat's Avatar
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    Everything I have read about oil for SD's revealed that if you have been using 100% synthetic XXX brand, then you can change to another brand, conditioned that you expel all of the existing oil in your tank and engine. Both are simple to do. 1) Detach the oil line from your oil tank and let it flow out into a container; 2) detach the oil line from your engine and let it empty into a container; 3) blow out all oil lines to expel any oil located therein.

    Pull up a post by DaveRade and he explains how to blow out your oil lines in a funny, crude manner. Since I like his idea, and its overall simplicity, it seemed like a good idea.

    That said, because I don't object to getting my hands dirty and I prefer doing things the easy way that gets results pronto, I understand that some folks may differ with DaveRade's suggestion.

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  16. #15
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    Addendum!

    On a side note, QS also sells Premium and Premium Plus oils, the Premium in a silver container, Premium Plus in a black container. Be advised that albeit the Premium is both API TC and TCW3 certified, (Premium Plus is TCW3 rated) both are Ash less. According to Bombadier, SD require a low ash oil.

    If you are looking for a specific brand of API TC oil, or an observeration from someone that used TCW3 oil in a 587cc engine for four years, (95-99)
    pull up Threads that I posted regarding the oil collooquy.

    It is my nature to always question recommendations made by manufactures, i.e., self serving (ex-cop/don't trust anyone) however, since the Guru's on this site aren't on SD's payroll, the fact that the Guru's volunteer their time answering a myriad of posts daily, and in consideration of my research on the subject as set forth under Threads I recently posted on the Forum regarding oil, I am not taking any more chances.

    In a nutshell, this shade tree mechanic who took over a month to rebuild a rinky-dink 2 stroke engine, I am now a converted API TC oil user.

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  17. #16
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    Default Addendum X 2

    Mystik JT-4 oil is full synthetic and on par or better than Seadoo's XP-S full synthetic. I am paying $19 per gallon at Houston area Academy stores.

    I think you can order it from Mystik for about $22 per gallon.

    Seadoo charged me $85 for the LAST (as in FINAL) gallon of XP-S Synthetic blend! And I had to drive an hour and a half each way to buy it.

    I have seen it in two different colored bottles, but both contain the same oil.

    The pdf is a detailed description of the oil from the manufacturer.

    http://seadooforum.com/attachment.ph...7&d=1279831694



    I just wanna go fast, get wet, and have fun...

    And if you get bored check out my Maverick website http://scooper77515.fordmaverick.net/index.htm

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  18. #17
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    Luckily i have a dealer nearby (10 minutes away) that can sell me the 4 quart case for $57. And each quart costs about $18

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  19. #18
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    This is a better deal and better oil, however I don't know about freight to PR.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/170846504700...84.m1423.l2649

    Lou
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  20. #19
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    I needed the oil asap to start my gsx so i bought it locally. I have to send an email to find out if they ship here and how much. They invited me to the test drive today but i couldn't go cause the starter is shot

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  21. #20
    SeadooForum Hall of fame AdamXP800's Avatar
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    Ive been running the Mystik JT-4 full synthetic oil in my 97 GTX. So far it has been great and around 20$ a gallon. My raves have not gunked up and it seems to be doing quite well. I buy it at my local academy sports store.

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  22. #21
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    Newly acquired 2003 Seadoo Sportster with 947 engine. Manual states that if one can not obtain Seadoo XP-S synthetic injection oil, then "equivalent API-TC ASHLESS 2 stroke injection oil may be used". My question is. I also own an Etec outboard 2 stroke engine on my fishing boat. The Etec is set for use of Evinrude XD100 ASHLESS synthetic injection oil. How do you all feel about running Etec XD100 in the Sportster?

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  23. #22
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    The specifications are actually API-TC rated LOW ASH Oil, so the answer would be no. You should be running XPSII full synthetic.

    Here's what I use.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/170846504700...84.m1423.l2649

    Anybody seen that cat?

    Lou

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    LooDoo. After further investigation, I have concluded that the Operators manual is incorrect and the Shop Manual Specs are correct. Darn. Yet another container of liquid gold on my garage shelf. Of course, I would not have checked the spec had you not pointed this out to me. Thanks a million!

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