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Thread: beeping sound

  1. #1
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    Default beeping sound

    so my wife's 95 seadoo spi makes a horrible beeping sound after riding about 15 mins. the story goes: we were riding around the local lake one day her seadoo made a horrible beeping sound so she jump off thinking it was going to explode ( yes it was funny ). i got her back on and towed her to shore. we had sucked up a bag around the impeller shaft. took the bag off, rode around one more time then went home. every thing was good. the next time at the lake her seadoo made a load clanking sound and then lost all power. would barely go forward. so i did some research and found that the wear ring was most likely the problem. sure enough it was completely wasted. so i replaced it. in the process i broke one of the plastic hose nipples and replaced it with a quarter in metal pipe. now the things hauls butt, but after a little bit of riding it starts beeping at her. what should i do?
    thank you

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    You should remove the sand from the hose that exits starboardside ski rear as
    that clog will overheat the engine and steam will start coming out the pisser.

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    I flush my system everytime i am done. wouldnt that get the sand out if there was some there? i am new to this please forgive me

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    No, It would not. It would just continue to backflush out the jetpump venturi. It
    is between the backflush hose and exhaust restrictor/hose connection at the
    rear pipe. You may even need to drill the restrictor with a 9/32 bit. HTH

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    is there a web page or some thing that would show me exactly where and what to drill. where is the restrictor

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  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bills86e View Post
    You should remove the sand from the hose that exits starboardside ski rear as
    that clog will overheat the engine and steam will start coming out the pisser.
    http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....&B=13&Action=O
    item 2 is the hose
    item 8 is a connector/restrictor

    If circulatory water gets its flow estopped
    around 190 degrees the temp sensor will actuate the overheat beeper,
    at 212 degrees water turns to steam.
    Then metals expand and engine siezure results.

    The oil tank also has a sensor that can actuate lite/beeper for low oil. item 25
    http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....&B=15&Action=O
    Last edited by Bills86e; 01-30-10 at 11:57 PM.

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  8. #7
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    i will play with this on my next day off.

    the other thing i was going to ask about is the fuel lines. i was told that if i have the gray fuel lines they need to be replaced.... is this true


    thanks for all your help

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  9. #8
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    Yes. The grey lines internally deteriorate. I suggest: To REPLACE FUEL LINES
    First, remove the negative battery cable from battery then siphon and empty any gas from tank.
    On 587's, 657's, & 717 skis, cut the new 1/4"I.S.dia. gas line one piece 12" long, two pieces 24" long, two pieces 60" long.
    Remove the fuel selector switch by pulling the center plug of the fuel dial with a needle, and remove the phillips #2 screw,
    and wiggle & pull until the knob pulls off. Then unscrew the 22mm plastic nut, washer, and push it thru the hull, into interior
    compartment. Next, under steering and in front compartment, useing a 10mm ratchet wrench, remove the nut on top of the separator
    filter's bracket to free it. Cut all the old fuel lines about 2" away from each part, and set aside. On top of the fuel tank is
    a four line bafel top. Look for the vent line and pull that up and off, it probly will come easily. Make a mental note of the
    zip ties to the lines as you will tie everything secure from bouncing around when you are done. Next, cut the three remaing lines
    2" above the bafel, and pull them up and off as well. Next, undo the two rubber strapes holding the gas tank down in its position,
    then unclip the fuel bafel two wire electrical connector. Unhook starboard oil tank strap. At this point you could attempt removal of the bafel from tank,
    or wait and grab the emty gas tank from frontside and remove from the ski thru the compartment hatch, and you mat be able to manuver
    it out along with the tank as a unit. Remove the bafel by loosening the lower gear clamp and pulling the bafel up. A circuit board and
    a float with a magnet on it is inside the bafel and sends a signal to the MPEM and gauge as to the fuel level. The bottom of the bafel
    has a clip/screen, you should remove and clean, and look at the short and full lenth fuel straw in there. The one that is at bottom
    where the clip/screen is, is the RESERVE. The one thats about 1 1/2" short is the ON straw. Mark the On & Reserve spigot tube at the
    top of the bafel on each tube. Even draw a circle front of the tank bafel with a majick marker of the two wires and four tubes. Mark the O & R on
    your drawing, the two other tubes, one is a vent line connection, the other is the fuel returm line from carb & returns unused fuel to tank tube.
    Remove the Carburator Air Box to gain access and remove the supply and return fuel lines from the carbs, and discard them. Next, clean
    out the fuel tank (use a rag swab on a slim rod) Clean the fuel bafel, disassemble the fuel separator bowl and filter and square O-ring, clean and reassemble tightly.
    Please use a marine grade or lines from fuellines.com.

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  10. #9
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    you are " THE MAN".

    thank you

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