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  1. ☑ ORIGINAL POSTER #1
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    Default Winterizing Questions

    I bought a 2005 Islandia a few months ago. I don't know much about the 2 cycle Mecury Optimax 250. As far as winterizing goes I am used to having to drain the block and water jackets on my inboard/outboard and thats about it. What is the best thing to do if it will be out of the water for about 5-6 months. We live in texas so it doesn't get below freezing much. Any help would be great thanks.

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  3. #2
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    I have the same boat and would appreciate the same information.

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    Default Winterize....

    In Texas, the idea of winterizing when you do not expect a freeze is kinda wasteful.

    Your motor, along with the Rotax motors are considered a TLCS system. Which is a "total loss cooling system"....when you pull your motor from the water, it drains all the water from your jacket. But, there are pockets of water that will be left. These pockets may range in size from a tablespoon to a 1/4 cup.

    If you lived up north and was putting it up for the winter season, I'd recommend you pour a bit of antifreeze in through the top with a funnel, at your highest point of the water jacket. There is actually a plug up there for doing a pressure test, you could do it there.

    The proper procedure calls for you to remove the flush line from the expansion tank, pinch some lines and fill the motor up. Then, allow if to drain out again.

    Here in Mobile Alabama, where I live, it freezes maybe 2 times a year. During these periods, I just put a light bulb in my engine compartment to keep the temps up. Doing this means you are certain you have no fuel leaks or buildup in the engine bay.

    I also start my motor about once or twice a month (I'm always piddling on it).

    I think the most important part of winterizing for you is lubrication and moisture barrier. Spray your engine quite liberally with a water barrier such as WD-40. Spray all your linkages and the engine surfaces. This will keep moisture from forming the droplets and rusting or seizing parts of your motor. I also use White lithium grease. The manual calls for the "fogging" spary. I remove my plugs and spray a small amount of white lithium grease in each one, then I spray a couple shots into each carb. This is what engine mechanics use to coat metal to metal contacted components from rusting and seizing........

    But, now when you go to start the motor up, be prepared to see a bit of smoke until the grease burns off.................
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  5. #4
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    Someone mentioned to me that you could put some 2 stroke oil in the fuel filter and run the engine until it conked out.. Does that sound like a good idea to you, and if so would it take place of the "white lithium" grease fix?

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  6. ☑ ORIGINAL POSTER #5
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    Thanks for the info this helps.

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  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by seadoosnipe View Post
    In Texas, the idea of winterizing when you do not expect a freeze is kinda wasteful.

    Your motor, along with the Rotax motors are considered a TLCS system. Which is a "total loss cooling system"....when you pull your motor from the water, it drains all the water from your jacket. But, there are pockets of water that will be left. These pockets may range in size from a tablespoon to a 1/4 cup.

    If you lived up north and was putting it up for the winter season, I'd recommend you pour a bit of antifreeze in through the top with a funnel, at your highest point of the water jacket. There is actually a plug up there for doing a pressure test, you could do it there.

    The proper procedure calls for you to remove the flush line from the expansion tank, pinch some lines and fill the motor up. Then, allow if to drain out again.

    Here in Mobile Alabama, where I live, it freezes maybe 2 times a year. During these periods, I just put a light bulb in my engine compartment to keep the temps up. Doing this means you are certain you have no fuel leaks or buildup in the engine bay.

    I also start my motor about once or twice a month (I'm always piddling on it).

    I think the most important part of winterizing for you is lubrication and moisture barrier. Spray your engine quite liberally with a water barrier such as WD-40. Spray all your linkages and the engine surfaces. This will keep moisture from forming the droplets and rusting or seizing parts of your motor. I also use White lithium grease. The manual calls for the "fogging" spary. I remove my plugs and spray a small amount of white lithium grease in each one, then I spray a couple shots into each carb. This is what engine mechanics use to coat metal to metal contacted components from rusting and seizing........

    But, now when you go to start the motor up, be prepared to see a bit of smoke until the grease burns off.................
    Hi, I'm new to the forum. I have the same motor on my 2003 Utopia 205. Browsing through this site - GREAT site, I've been able to find good, step by step directions on how to winterize the drive unit and stator housing but am still a little confused on how to flush the system with antifreeze. I live in the Great Lakes area, so I think I'd better do this. Looking through the Optimax 250 manual (page 1C-11), would the best place to funnel the antifreeze in be #1 (water hose)? Undo the clamps from the "I" hose at each side and funnel antifreeze in each bank? Page 4B-9, #6 may give a better view. And what hose am I suppose to pinch off? Do I do this before winterizing the fuel system (page 1B-9) or after? The "out of season storage" section does not mention fogging. What page in the manual can I find the procedure for fogging? What brand of "fogging spray" do I use. Is it ok to leave the oil in the All I planned on doing for winter storage was on pages 1B-9 and 1B-10 but after reading some of the tips on here for Optimax motors and drives, I see I need help. I purchased 2 gal of pink RV antifreeze (walmart), 2 qt of Mercury Precision Premium gear lube 92-802847A1, Grease gun 91-37299A1, Mercury Marine Quickleen Engine Treatment 92-858073K01, Stabil - fuel stabilizer, Loctite thread locker - blue, 2 cans of WD-40, silicone spray. I already have the Optimax/DFI 2 cycle oil. Do I need anything else? Can anyone help with some step by step winterization instructions specific to the Optimax 250 for a newbie? I plan on keeping my boat for a long time and I should at least know the basics to maintain it. Thanks in advance...

    - Danny

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  8. #7
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    Here is a quick run down of how I winterize my Utopia with the Mercury.

    First I always add fuel stabilizer and fog the engine. Add the stabilizer to the tank a few days in advance, then drain the fuel from the Vapor Separator and the fuel/water separating filter. On the filter just remove the water sensor from the bottom to drain it. The reason I do this is to make sure the Vapor separator and fuel rail is full of fuel with stabilizer added for the winter.

    Next Drain the gear case, as well as the stator. Their are two ways to service the stator. The purists will tell you you have to remove it from the boat in order to make sure you get all the oil changed, but I just remove the drain and fill plugs, then stick a long hose down the drain hole to get any remaining fluid. Be sure to put thread sealer on the plugs before you reinstall them. Next for the gear case pull both plugs. To speed the drain process I blow in the vent hole (the hole closest to the side of the pump) very gently with some compressed air, or it can take forever to get the oil out. To refill it you will need a gear oil pump available at any marine supply store for under 15 bucks. It threads on the top of a one liter bottle. Just hold the spout tight against the fill hole (closest to the center) and pump until oil starts to come out the fill plug. Then quickly replace the drain/fill plug and then the vent plug after the exes oil stops draining. The only thing to watch out for here, is the drain plugs both have plastic washers on them. Be sure not to loose or damage them. Both the gear case and the stator take Mercury High Performance gear oil. 550ml in the stator and around 800 in the gear case.

    Next run the boat on the hose for five or ten minuets in order to get the fuel with stabilizer in it to the fuel rail. For the last 30 seconds to a minuet spray fogging oil down the throttle body until the exhaust starts to smoke then shut the engine off. Now replace the fuel/water separating filter and the small spin on filter that threads on to the low pressure electric pump and leave them dry. I now remove the battery and leave it somewhere warm for the winter with a battery tender hooked to it.

    As for antifreeze it's not really necessary (I don't use it up here in Canada), but if it makes you feel better undo the hose that runs between the cylinder heads and pour a bit of the pink RV antifreeze down them. Unfortunately there is no point pouring it in the flush connector as it attaches to the bottom of the engine and requires 15 psi and a very high volume to get to the top of the engine.


    Aaron
    Last edited by rookie101; 11-05-09 at 12:25 AM.
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  9. #8
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    Thanks Aaron,

    That's what I needed. 2 questions:

    1. What fogging spray do I buy?

    2. In regards to the antifreeze, are you referring to the water hose (b) on page 4A-26 of the Optimax 250 manual? Should I remove the "t" fitting (a) and pour the antifreeze in both hoses (b)? No hose to pinch off? Or do I pour until I see the antifreeze reach the top of the hose on both sides? Or will it just drain out and done?

    - Danny

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  10. #9
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    Default Impellar Removal

    One more

    Is it necessary to have the special tools that are listed in the manual to remove the impellar or can you substitute?

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  11. #10
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    Just pour a bit of antifreeze down each hose. You'll never see it get to the top, because it will run out through the bottom faster than you can pour. Yes you can substitute tools, you just need a really deep socket for the impeller nut.

    Aaron

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  12. #11
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    Default Fogging spray

    Cool... thanks. What about the fogging spray to fog the motor? Which one do I buy?

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  13. #12
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    Sorry, I missed that........ Any brand of fogging oil will work fine.

    Aaron

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    Thanks again... I will be winterizing the boat this weekend. Thank you seadoosnipes and rookie101 for your help. You guys saved me money.


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  15. #14
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    Seadoosnipe starts his ski once or twice a month. I am in south florida and will rarely use the ski until May when we head to Alabama. Do you just run the gas out of the carbs and keep stabil or seafoam in the tank. I thought about turning of the gass and running til it quits. Then spray W-D or CRC into the intake as a lubricant. How long can gas sit in the carb before creating problems. Thnks

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  16. #15
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    I'm not a big fan of running the carbs dry. You can not get all the fuel out and what little is left is more likely to gum up than if left full with fuel treated stabilizer. Plus the rubber parts are more likely to dry rot.

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  17. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by seadoodude1 View Post
    I'm not a big fan of running the carbs dry. You can not get all the fuel out and what little is left is more likely to gum up than if left full with fuel treated stabilizer. Plus the rubber parts are more likely to dry rot.
    My 250 Optimax doesnt have Carbs, Its fuel injected.. I couldn't even find the friggin' intake without crawling inside the hull.. ( and even still I think it was buried under a bunch of plastic crap..) So I skipped the fogging part.. It's 2 stroke it should be fine.

    As far as running the fuel out, that may not be that great an idea because now there is a place where condensation can build up.. Personally I'd fill the fuel to the max and add an enzyme based fuel stabilizer like 'Startron'..

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