Sea-Doo Super Charger Rebuild Service
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  1. #1
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    Default Rebuilding SUPERCHARGER??

    I have a 06 RXP Intercooled SC with 100hrs on it

    I want to try to rebuild the supercharger myself, as a maintenance thing. Removal looks pretty easy.

    Should I buy the rebuild kit from ebay for like $300 or just buy the washers for $100 ???

    If I purchase the complete kit, do I need to buy any other tools, Like the CLUTCH TOOL???? or any other TOOL? to remove the supercharger??

    Do the rebuild kits come with instructions, If not does anyone have the instruction on how to do this..

    Thanks a lot for any input..
    steve

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    Since the weathers crappy, you have the time to tear it apart yourself, if you decide to take that route, and once you have the washers out, wondering if you can match'em up at hardware/auto parts store, verses 100buks for them? Again, haven't tried this procedure, so, just speculating...

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    Seadoo has a rebuild kit that comes with metal washers, also they say when adding metal washers to change to ceramic bearing. The superchargers are the weak link on this motor, Reason seadoo say to rebuild it every 100hrs is because things wear out. the bearing can let go and the shaft can also let go and the washers as well so id spend the extra money and rebuild it, trust me last think you want to happen is to break down out on the water. The last couple week ive been doing alot of research cause im think of buying an RXP this summer and if i do first thing ill be doing befor hitting the lake is a supercharger rebuild....

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    Quote Originally Posted by timmyboy76 View Post
    wondering if you can match'em up at hardware/auto parts store, verses 100buks for them? Again, haven't tried this procedure, so, just speculating...
    DO NOT go this route spend the money an do it right. Last thing youll want to do is drop $5000 to replace a blown motor

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    Timmy have you been drinking? That'a the worse advice I think you have ever suggested... Is there someone else posting under your screen name?

    Karl
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    Ok, I think I will buy the hole rebuild kit which looks like it comes with the shaft and with new bearings..

    Is it easy to do myself?? Do I need to buy another seadoo rebuild kit in order to disassemble and re assemble the supercharger..

    In other words, IS IT EASY TO remove or take apart my old supercharger or do I need a machine shop to press in the new bearings etc onto the new supercharger shaft???..

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    how much is the full rebuild kit guys

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    Default Rebuild kits?....

    It depends on how far you plan on taking your rebuild. If your just looking to replace your slip washers, then you can get them for $150 to $200 bucks, depending on where you buy them.

    Here's a start from a distributer we do work with. Take a look and you'll be able to get an idea of what you want to do in your rebuild. http://www.pwcmuscle.com/supercharge...420881102.html
    Looking for tips and advice, researched articles on carbs, spark plugs and general maintenance can be found at Snipes Korner. You can also follow me on "Twitter".

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  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by steveruss1982 View Post
    Ok, I think I will buy the hole rebuild kit which looks like it comes with the shaft and with new bearings..

    Is it easy to do myself?? Do I need to buy another seadoo rebuild kit in order to disassemble and re assemble the supercharger..

    In other words, IS IT EASY TO remove or take apart my old supercharger or do I need a machine shop to press in the new bearings etc onto the new supercharger shaft???..
    This is the best place to get the kits that I have found:
    http://www.pwcmuscle.com/supercharge...420881102.html
    IT IS NOT EASY TO DO YOURSELF. Taking the charger out is easy, replacing only the washers is not very easy especially if you don't have experience.

    REBUILDING THE ENTIRE SUPERCHARGER IS VERY HARD. These things spin at 45,000RPM and need to handed by someone with experience. If you want to save money, buy the kit, remove the charger (the most expensive part of the job) and take it to an authorized dealer for them to rebuilt it.

    I can't stress how important it is for this to be done properly. It is not an easy job at all and if it is not done properly you could cause major damage to your engine.

    Hope this helps!

    Matt

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  11. #10
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    best advice is to be CLEAN and preload all bearings with oil and needles with the special grease, if your 1/2 a mechanic you can do it

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    What's the purpose of the special grease? Why not just use engine oil to coat the needle bearings?

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    Dennis,,,

    Not sure if the reason is the same for PWC as compared to traditional engines/motors (cars, trucks, boats, ect ect), but I would think it is.

    But the reason for the special grease is, to ensure a good quality lubricant to be in place when it is freshly started. The special grease WANTS to stay there so it helps to lubricate the metals until the oil can was over it and clean this grease away.

    It is in the first few hours that most of the engine wear happens. This grease allows the metal to wear more properly.

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  14. #13
    SeadooForum Pro Michael211_2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by timmyboy76 View Post
    ... once you have the washers out, wondering if you can match'em up at hardware/auto parts store, verses 100buks for them?
    Worst advice EVER! These SC clutch washers are NOT anything like the metal washers you buy at an auto parts or hardware store to put under the head of a bolt... these clutch washers are for an entirely different purpose and are designed with vastly different materials, they are NOT just plain metal washers! I cannot stress this enough, DO NOT replace the clutch washers with just any similar sized flat metal washers you can obtain!!! There are metal washers, and then there are METAL WASHERS and the metals in them are not the same.

    Also if you're at 100 hrs, you need to completely rebuild the SC not simply replace the clutch washers. It's not optional, unless you want to end up buying a new engine instead. The parts inside the SC (the shaft, the bearings, etc.), and not just the clutch washers in it, are wear items just like the brake pads and rotors on your automobile. They're only designed to last for a finite amount of time and then they must be replaced or run very real risk of major catastrophic engine failure. You don't want to go there!

    Note: The clutch washers appear to be identical to the naked eye, but their inside diameter is actually slightly different if you hold them against one another and look closely. When replacing the clutch washers you MUST note which washer went on which side of the drive gear, as the shaft diameter is slightly different on either side of that gear (it's just slightly conical). I cannot imagine what happens if you put the clutch washers in on the wrong sides of the drive gear, but I suspect a bad experience will follow shortly thereafter....

    Regards!

    - Michael

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  15. #14
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    Dennis, I believe what makes the grease special is that it's compatible with the engine oil and won't harm the engine internals... it dissolves into the oil once the engine is up and running. Also, it's very sticky when you apply it so it will help hold parts together (such as needle bearings to the shaft, in the SC!) while you assemble things. Typical grease-gun grease that you use to lubricate your tie-rod ends on your automobile isn't compatible with the engine oil and may actually prevent engine oil from flowing thru the SC parts as a result, blocking passages causing parts to rapidly burn up (flowing oil cools as well as lubricates). I used a dab of engine assembly grease on my SC shaft to hold the needle bearings in place on the shaft while I was putting all the washers and gears back onto the shaft, then I poured a small amount of engine oil over the entire shaft + gear + washers before reinstalling the SC into my engine.

    Regards.

    ps. Joe simply using engine oil on the parts while assembling them would do the same thing, preventing "dry" parts from suffering when the engine is 1st started after assembly. The oil itself would be enough to protect the parts... the "special grease" for engine assembly actually disolves very rapidly into the engine oil once the engine is running. That's my understanding, at any rate.

    - Michael
    Last edited by Michael211_2000; 04-20-11 at 04:06 PM.

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  16. #15
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    ps. It's been my observation that engine assembly grease is almost jelly like to the touch, and sticky. But put a little engine oil on your fingers and rub them together with the assembly grease and the grease goes from jelly like to pure liquid oil in a few seconds. That's my observation at any rate having used the stuff when I had my SeaDoo's engine apart while replacing a bent connecting rod.

    - Michael

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    Thanks for the responses. The manual states that you MUST use the special grease when installing the needle bearings which causes people doing their own s/c rebuild to go buy some. I don't see where any grease is necessary. I stand the s/c on end (impeller side down) and load the bearings in between the shaft and gear using a small magnet ( like loading bullets into a revolver). I then apply a couple of drops of non-synthetic engine oil to lube the bearings and then finish the rest of the s/c assembly. In other words, I totally agree with you!

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  18. #17
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    Good idea on the magnet Dennis! I'd never thought of that before.

    - Michael

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  19. #18
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    Rob,,,

    What was the total price if you don't mind me asking?
    My ski's are new, less than 7 hrs on them. Just wondering so I have the knowledge...

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    The supercharger rebuild kit is 310.00 the labor is 75.00 plus your shipping

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  21. #20
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    Coastiejoe, where r u at in ohio? I am in Madison

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    Rob.
    I lived in Madison for 40 years. I am now in the Strongsville area due to work reasons. I fly five days a week.

    That said, my kids still live in Madison and me and my girlfriend ride the ski's when we can. Would be glad to meet you somewhere if you would like. Let me know...

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    Sounds good. We live in madison, but usually launch from north perry park, or perry park. Send me a pm sometime if you are coming out this way.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael211_2000 View Post
    ...Note: The clutch washers appear to be identical to the naked eye, but their inside diameter is actually slightly different if you hold them against one another and look closely. When replacing the clutch washers you MUST note which washer went on which side of the drive gear, as the shaft diameter is slightly different on either side of that gear (it's just slightly conical). I cannot imagine what happens if you put the clutch washers in on the wrong sides of the drive gear, but I suspect a bad experience will follow shortly thereafter....

    Regards!

    - Michael
    It's impossible to get them mixed up. The small ID washer will not fit on the large part of the shaft. I've tried.

    Chester
    "A smooth sea never made a skillful mariner."

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chester View Post
    It's impossible to get them mixed up. The small ID washer will not fit on the large part of the shaft. I've tried.

    Chester
    Did you try a hammer? LOL!

    I never tried to see if I could put them on backwards, I just noted that the 2 washers are not identical (but they're oh so close to it!). My 1st clue that they must be different was that the instructions they came with identified them with different part numbers.... but both of the washers came in the same sealed baggie, which had me perplexed initially.

    Regards!

    - Michael

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  26. #25
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    Angry New Motor Cost

    Quote Originally Posted by sporsterjoel View Post
    Seadoo has a rebuild kit that comes with metal washers, also they say when adding metal washers to change to ceramic bearing. The superchargers are the weak link on this motor, Reason seadoo say to rebuild it every 100hrs is because things wear out. the bearing can let go and the shaft can also let go and the washers as well so id spend the extra money and rebuild it, trust me last think you want to happen is to break down out on the water. The last couple week ive been doing alot of research cause im think of buying an RXP this summer and if i do first thing ill be doing befor hitting the lake is a supercharger rebuild....
    New motor CORE costs $6750 installed. The core is REFURBISHED.

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