Search results

Good to see you still here too, Tony. I am still riding as much as ever! And, back on topic, if you think sport mode on a Spark is fun, you should try it on an RXT-X 260!!

You won't have any problems. Mine are in the same place and I know for sure I have been spotted by Fish and Game looking for valid tags in my state. You could also argue with the body style of the Spark, that was really your only option. No other placement works well on them.

My dealer (40 min away) ships me parts right to my house. Perhaps yours will too. If buying online, I get stuff from Parker Yamaha, who usually has good discounted prices.

Maybe you should try riding an RXT-X or an RXP-X...the other half of the "couple" tends to fall off easily. At least the way I drive :) As far as which ski to get, you got to understand that the Spark and the GTR will give you two different types of riding. You can get a very wet, feel like...

There are several pictures you can add to the site. Profile Picture is the picture that displays when someone goes to your profile page. If I click on your name in a post, I go to your profile page (and I see your picture). Avatar is the picture that displays to the left of every post you...

Nice boat rampage. Mind if I ask what you paid? Looking at the pics of the engine, I am jealous of all the room you have to work on it in there. I have that same engine in a ski.

Pictures aren't the greatest but from what I see you just went through the gel-coat. Doesn't look like you need to bother with any fiberglass. Make sure your fiberglass is not cracked, though.

Are you saying you are only getting water in while moving or both when moving and sitting? Also, how much water are we talking here? Nice tan color plugs sound perfect. An accurate compression read on that engine in like new condition should be right at 135. That is the same engine I have...

I agree with Lou on this. Don't worry about the big line behind you, relax, and go slow enough so you don't make a mistake and end up damaging your vehicle, a ski, a person, etc. If someone is getting frustrated with you because you are having trouble then that is their problem, not yours...

I am going to agree with Coastie on this one. The fact that everything is fine once you get the load off the prop enough to get the RPMS up suggests your low compression readings are accurate. While under constant load, your engine does not have enough power now to to push your RPMS up. I...

Here's mine! Newest edition is the stainless box mounted on the trailer. Well worth the $240. Was worried it would get in the way when loading/unloading, but there is still plenty of room. Holds all of my riding gear/tools with tons of room to spare.

Do you have a solid, one piece hitch or hitch that adjusts in height? I recently bought a hitch that adjusts up/down up to 7 1/2" lowered or raised. Because it is a two-piece, there is some play in the hitch and allows for the occasional 'surge/bounce'.

There is a you tube video (just a series of poor taken photos, not actual video) that highlights the procedure you will need to take to remove the pump with an iBR and get to your wear ring. You could also join this site as a premium member for a month ($10.95) and download the manual. I have...

I would not use one until you are ready to finish (high grit paper). Too easy to accidentally sand down to the fiberglass with a powered sander unless you are very adept with one. EDIT: To answer more directly...Yes it is OK to use one, but the above statement applies.

Depends on how much pressure you apply and how much you sand in one spot. Just use light pressure and try not to sand down in to the gel coat too much.

Looks pretty rough under there. You are going to want to start with a coarse sandpaper, otherwise you will be sanding forever. I would start around 150 -200 grit and see how well it removes the crud. You can then adjust up or down depending on the results.

As I mentioned before, I bought the same ski sitting on an identical trailer as you. Here is a pic of my ski.

I doubled your effort; I was thrown twice this summer :)

Make sure the battery is charged up, even if it is brand new. Disconnect, remove, and charge. Try this first before worrying about changing a bunch of parts.

Before any more "cranking" of the engine, make sure you put some lubricant in the cylinder holes. If you have a seadoo shop near you, get some XPS Lube and spray in the cylinders for about 15 seconds each plug hole. If you don't have XPS Lube, you can use a similar lubricant or even your 2...