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I'm running 95P / 165M / 2.0NS / 21psi pop off with flame arrestors, AP delete, and 150 psi compression. It rips

Why not tear down the motor in it and inspect?

Try running the reserve fuel line directly to the carbs eliminating the separator and selector

Filled with oil? Hope the crank seals are not bad. As for honing, I doubt you’ll hone out that rust. You need a new top end at the minimum.

Oof... definitely check those crank bearings. If the top end is rusted, i bet the bottom is as well. Complete rebuild will be needed if so. The rust on those cylinder walls looks pretty bad, will probably need at least .25 bore to fully remove it.

OSD Marine is the way to go for new parts. He is very responsive and helpful if you have any questions. For top end, I like to use good quality pistons (pro-x, oem, wossner, etc) and have a machinist bore and chamfer for you.

Its normal to have slight binding with a new wear ring, but you should be able to easily spin the impeller past the tight spots. After a quick run, the impeller will shave down the wear ring and spin freely again. If its still binding, make sure you are not pinching the thrust washer (keep shaft...

787 and 1998 951s were single coil with wasted spark. 1999 and newer 951s are dual coil with a different mag cup and not wasted spark.

Start at 2 and work your way down to see what runs best for your setup and environment. Theres a great SBN carb tuning guide by Mikuni you can find online.

Delete the AP and rejet. You can use a stock SBN cover plate that are cheap and easy to find.

There is no reason to change your 2 stroke oil seasonally even if it does technically break down. 2 strokes have been around a long time now and if this was causing a problem then everyone would be doing it now. I've run 10yr old oil in my 650/750 yamahas and kawis, they will eat anything. A...

No

You can run non AP carbs and rejet. I delete the AP on all my skis.

I believe it was @racerxxx that made them. I've been 3D printing block off plates for a few years now. Works well but not as nice as the aluminum ones.

Have you cleaned and rebuilt the carbs??

It's almost always the two exhaust mount bushings and/or pipe alignment and torque sequence. The updated exhaust manifold with the o-ring helps too.

Many race parts for sale on the FB groups. Lots of scammers as well though. Spec I and II pipes have gotten to be pretty expensive these days.

I've bought a few of the eBay lens replacement kits. They definitely make it look better if your LCD is not burnt bad.

Impact screwdriver is what you need like Mikidymac said.

There was a TSB released for the defective 1997 RAVE housings. They need to replaced with 96 or 98+ housings.