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Are you trying to circulate the oil and cool it somehow? Do you think the oil bath temps cause premature wear? The whole "All this is to introduce thermal difference to induce thermal convection/flow" doesnt make sense inside of a hot boat hull.

Why wont you answer a simple question? Is it because you have no idea what you are trying to achieve besides create more leak points and things to break?

Good excuse to upgrade to a Zeeltronic. The 96 MPEM has an external CDI where as the 97+ has the CDI built into the mpem as one unit if I remember correctly. So if you run the 96 youll need the whole ebox with the external CDI.

Could be a 97/98 SPX two gauge hood. I haven't rewired one in years though. With those three wires purple is power, black ground, and grey signal i would imagine. The 96XP gauge's are all daisy chained together for power with one hot purple wire coming into the hood.

I didn’t realize we had a genius here that’s knows more than the BRP engineers

They make a special wrench for it but I just remove the carbs and then you have access to it with a regular wrench. Thats a clean GTX, definitely rebuild it yourself so you know its done right. If the scoring on the cylinder wall does not catch your fingernail too much then you can bore .25...

What are you trying to accomplish by circulating the oil? If there was a need to circulate and/or filter oil, then an oil pump would have been included decades ago. These are old engine designs and the oil bath works fine.

I believe it is 1/4, only fuel supply lines are 5/16.

I'm running 95P / 165M / 2.0NS / 21psi pop off with flame arrestors, AP delete, and 150 psi compression. It rips

Why not tear down the motor in it and inspect?

Try running the reserve fuel line directly to the carbs eliminating the separator and selector

Filled with oil? Hope the crank seals are not bad. As for honing, I doubt you’ll hone out that rust. You need a new top end at the minimum.

Oof... definitely check those crank bearings. If the top end is rusted, i bet the bottom is as well. Complete rebuild will be needed if so. The rust on those cylinder walls looks pretty bad, will probably need at least .25 bore to fully remove it.

OSD Marine is the way to go for new parts. He is very responsive and helpful if you have any questions. For top end, I like to use good quality pistons (pro-x, oem, wossner, etc) and have a machinist bore and chamfer for you.

Its normal to have slight binding with a new wear ring, but you should be able to easily spin the impeller past the tight spots. After a quick run, the impeller will shave down the wear ring and spin freely again. If its still binding, make sure you are not pinching the thrust washer (keep shaft...

787 and 1998 951s were single coil with wasted spark. 1999 and newer 951s are dual coil with a different mag cup and not wasted spark.

Start at 2 and work your way down to see what runs best for your setup and environment. Theres a great SBN carb tuning guide by Mikuni you can find online.

Delete the AP and rejet. You can use a stock SBN cover plate that are cheap and easy to find.

There is no reason to change your 2 stroke oil seasonally even if it does technically break down. 2 strokes have been around a long time now and if this was causing a problem then everyone would be doing it now. I've run 10yr old oil in my 650/750 yamahas and kawis, they will eat anything. A...

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