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In reading the referenced linked article, it seems to imply direct charging to the battery, but how relevant is this info when a battery management system sits between the charging device and the battery cells themselves? Many of these small batteries are geared towards lawn mower and other...

A leak down test may yield valuable information in finding root cause. Are the compression values listed in post 1 before or after new hea? If prior, has a new compression test been performed.

Any indication what the root cause of failure was?

2nd the poor picture focus/detail. Also suggest a 2nd clear picture from a different perspective.

When apart earlier and slipping what did the splines look like? Was their obvious wear to one part or the other? Is it important for you have the parts in hand prior to disassembly? If not take apart and diagnose the severity of the problem and the value of repairing.

Sounds like disassembly and inspection are next.

Can you mark both piece to verify it is definitely slipping?

Thanks for replying. For the ultimate solution wouldn’t it be better to have a dual battery setup and perhaps isolate battery #2 in the event battery 1 fails?

Can you explain what this battery does differently that it is considered an upgrade? Does this battery do something better than another?

Do any of the spark plugs look like excess oil is getting into power cylinder?

Once a key is programmed to PWC as learner, the regular key is used to set the level of the learner key through the display. Both keys are needed to change learner level.

Mine looks the same and doesn't leak. This oring serves no purpose, but it does help increase their revenue stream slightly :D Complete non-value item - doesn't perform a function and time wasted installing.

Just proving translation for previous post. Hello from Germany. I bought these aftermarket clusters in China. I have buds and Scanworld program. I tried it in 2006 in a ski with MPEM, it works without getting married. But the hours cannot be fixed. And the hours do not continue after 7 hours...

Fyi… Advance auto or similar have a tool rental program. Requires a down payment to rent, which is refunded when tool isreturned, thus free.

One can always pay someone that has the equipment to do the work. If you do your own work you’ll likely need the equipment again helping to spread the cost over multiple repairs.

"I have done a leak test to 13 and it lost 2 over 15min" Not the type of leak down test I was referring to, but thanks for proving the info. That's a pretty good drop. The test I was refereeing to is a substitute for a compression test. It's usually more informative than a compression test.

I’m concerned about finding root cause before investing in the rebuild. Hate to see the same thing happen again. Did you check fuel pressure or fuel delivery (kinked fuel line or something that would restrict fuel flow to this cylinder causing it run lean)? Can the long term fuel trim values...

Have you done a leakdown test? Notice any bubbles in coolant when doing test? How long did you run the coolant pressure test and was there any pressure drop from start to finish? The thermostat could be removed and tested in a pot of water using a candy thermometer to verify when it opens...

How do you know it’s running rich? What do plugs look like? Might be worth changing out given its low cost and easy to help rule out them as root cause. Perhaps post pictures of plug condition.

Is there proof slippage occurs or just feels like it could be slipping? Perhaps mark shaft and propeller to establish an index. Operate and check if marks are no longer aligned.