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How much water was in the hull? To find the leak you can put it on a trailer and use a garden hose and fill the bottom with water to see where it runs out. Just don't fill it too much that it reaches the carbs or electronic boxes. If you get no leaks then there might be a leak at the engine...

DL the repair manual, its free, just search you seadoo in google.

You could also look in the rave hole and turn the engine over by hand and see if here is any damaged to the pistons/rings to verify they are not hitting. Normally they only hit if the engine has been rebuilt and they bored the cylinders out. Then you would need to cut the raves down a bit...

I'm no DI expert but most of the things I have read the issues was the injectors or the fuel pump....for fuel delivery issues. It could be a clogged injector. You could send the injectors to fuelinjectorman.com for a good cleaning and testing.

Mine is showing them with the fuel tank, in parts manual. The battery hose was shown on the main hull picture, but it didn't show location that it exists the hull. I deleted the battery hose and just left the check valve to prevent water from entering. If you have the original hoses it gives...

Have you cleaned the injectors? Have you checked the fuel pressure? New plugs?

I know my GTX has one for the battery outgas, which isn't really a thing any more. Mine also has two outlets for the fuel system. Do you have the parts manual, it shows them clearly. DL load it if you don't and see if anything makes sense.

Do you know if it is an aftermarket MPEM, those are notorious for being unreliable. The blue oil might be the two stroke oil. I think mine is bluish, . Also don't mix 2 stroke oil, they don't always like each other, And use the right type. As far as fuel supply, you could put a hose on...

I would replace the filter if you don't know how old it is. Also have you cleaned the raves? They are easy to take apart and clean, you can verify that they slide well too. If you don't have history with the engine I would get a rebuild kit for the raves too. Have you checked that your...

NGK are good plugs, that's what I have in my seadoo.

That's the synthetic blend and it says TC-W oil...you need full synthetic API-TC oil! its easy to miss over that.

Here's the oil I use. I get it at Academy Sports..its about 45 right now

I thought a new rebuilt 951 compression is generally around 150, I thought I learned that here on the forum. I also thought around 120ish is when reliability starts to wane on them, some engines do ok some don't kind of thing. Am I off?

You can rent one at any autoparts store, its a free rental when you bring it back. Hopefully you found the issue then. If not let us know the latest on what they are doing. Glad you used OEM, I think that probably saved you a lot of headaches. Yeah with spark plugs you just need to make...

My seadoo usually bounces by about a 50/100 rpm, so as long as you are close to that you should be fine. IMO that number is used to get you in the water so you can set the RPM in the water by what the book say, that is the one you want to focus on, when you get it running in the water that is...

Just make sure it is pointed in the right direction!

I know there is a GTI LE version. I was looking at picking up a 2003 in that style. I thought I read it stood for luxury edition:cool:

You have the 787 right? If so might want to look at your rave valves. They help transition the mid/low range to high range.

Hopefully you didn't tow it over about 5 mph, or the engine will suck up water. When you did the compression did you see if anything came out of the spark plugs holes when you turn it over, before or after test? Is your compression guage reliable? If you plan on doing a rebuild, then I would...

It is a matter of preference and ability really. I did a lot of work on mine and found it easier to remove the exhaust (as one unit) and work on everything. Some people do pull the carbs while leaving the exhaust in tact. Either way the air box has to come off. Maybe someone will chime in ...