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I may of missed it but did you ever check this? I just had my third one over the years do this (one was on an x4 with a jetted pipe, might of let her get too hot ;)). I don't even put an OEM hose back in anymore, I do intercooler piping with silicone couplers and stainless t-bolt clamps on...

If it's got spark and compression you can make it run. With no key I'd try to get it as cheap as possible, if you're handy with automotive type wiring you can ditch the MPEM and run a zeeltronics with a regular non-dess kill switch.

I say this alot here because I chased it for a summer once. Check the rear waterbox to outlet hose for soft spots all over, including right up next to the outlet.

They're both different enough that what you want to use it for will dictate. Parts are definitely still available.

waterbox to rear outlet

This is going to sound stupid but its a free check. Check your rear hose for soft spots all the way around and to the end. They like to split internally and balloon closed the exhaust as RPM/Load rises.

Looking forward to seeing final root cause analysis.

Yes, you should be able to work the grey box out the top and front with the seat off behind the tank with the battery out. At least that is how my 717 XP was.

Check for soft spots in rear exhaust hose, all the way down to the outlet. The split internally, blow up like a balloon under load, and choke it off.

If you're handy with wiring you can toss a zeeltronics programmable cdi box in it and delete the MPEM If you want to keep it OE, westside powersports should be able to help you with one, I don't know about their shipping policies though out of the country.

https://www.mikuni.com/pdf/sbn_manual.pdf ^^ That link was super helpful in helping me initially learn these carbs. Groupk has some good info on their site as well. Do you have an aftermarket flame arrestor? Edited because I verified info on seadoosource that I was pulling from memory...

Not the op but wanted to share, I have used these as cheap replacements a few times and they work great. They're much smaller than the original so if you have stock bars they'll need ziptied into the location inside the foam. On my skis with aftermarket bars I wrap the wiring up neatly and zip...

Check exhaust hose for soft spots. Does it bog on the trailer, no load?

Yup, I had one exhaust hose that split all the way down near the exit on a GTX. What a pain that was to find/figure out.

Yup, I've had two do this.

Raves, Water Regulator, Carbs, and blocked exhaust hose can all cause that issue if compression is good. I have personally had two separate exhaust hoses split internally and the inner liner blows up like a balloon and blocks off the exhaust when running, typically under load more so than on...

Pull the plugs and see if it filled with oil and is just hydro-locked. Common on older rebuild and original 717/787's. Not sure if the older motor's do the same.

I don't think this is it in your case but I just had a delaminated exhaust hose creating a rev issue around the same RPM in a ski. Would be worth checking for soft spots for all the longer it takes to check.

I do a thin coat of copper RTV on any exhaust joints. Carryover habit from working on turbocharged car's. I know it's not needed with the big stainless washer but it makes me feel better.

Good to hear!