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I thought so too... but the new starter is an OEM denso I rebuilt myself. :-)

Unless the original starter has some critical fault, rebuild it per the shop manual. Get new brushes, clean the commutator, and reassemble. The aftermarket starters are not good (low torque, rust out, fail early, inferior metal can cause gear pieces and metal bits to snap off, etc) And you...

The original OEM starter is in pieces. The crankshaft bearing failure caused the internal gear inside the motor that extends the bendix to turn into little pieces of shrapnel. It's very dead. :) I had previously rebuilt it, so the brushes and commutator were both in great shape. Will run the...

I'd love some advice on my starter issues with my 1996 GTX. I had an OEM starter which was working well. One day, it just stopped working intermittently. You'd hit the button, no click, no motor, nothing. Do it a couple more times, and it'd start--maybe. I always keep the battery on a...

I got a new SBT motor in my 1996 GTX and have been quite happy with it. But yes, it does appear they use lower quality parts, so if you're planning to hot-rod, that's absolutely a no-go. As I understand it, if you're just going to run it stock, it'll probably last just fine? Unlike some of...

Isn't SBT "good"? As in, you'll get what you pay for, which is a professionally reman engine with a quick turnaround that's using parts that are "just good enough" and should last if you don't hot-rod it at all? But not nearly as bulletproof as OEM? I've got a couple years on my SBT and have...

125psi is really really low. It's not a harbor freight gauge, right? 125psi should run out of water, but isn't really gonna work in the water.

Weird. I got it fastened in both slots. In any case, it's definitely good to go now. Good to hear you haven't had an issue with the plastics. That little nut took away a couple days of my lake trip, though, so im eager to never deal with it again. :-) The original part was 277 000 052 and...

There's actually two slots the half moons can lock into. I had it in the first, which didn't have the cable pulled enough out of the hull. Thanks so much! As in, I was having a very bad day and the fact that a random stranger helped meant a lot. Definitely upgrading to brass when I get home...

Figured it out. I didn't pull the cable out enough when I put in the through hull nut. There are two notches that the half moon plastic thing can fit in and I put it in the first, not the second. If anyone ever needs to get one of these nuts out, a deep well 15/16 or 24mm socket with a vice...

The thru hull nut (277 000 052) in my 1996 GTX broke. I got it back to the dock and replaced the nut and now it wants to turn right all the time. I can adjust the end bolt out, which helps a little, but even all the way out, it's still turning right. Did I not pull the steering cable far...

130 psi should be plenty to start out of water. How did you verify spark? Are you running genuine mikuni carbs? When were they last rebuilt? How do you know you're getting fuel?

What does the rubber impeller seal do? Could it cause cavitation if it wasn't seated right?

Check your fuses and the MPEM. Then check the battery connections. Basically the front console should work if: You have power from battery to MPEM (computer in the watertight box) You connect the DESS lanyard So if that's not working you have some issue between battery, computer, DESS, and...

130 is awfully low. Does it start and run out of water?

I definitely would not recommend a mineral oil. Every recommended oil is full synthetic API-TC. I don't know about the Castrol.

I couldn't find (for any XPS oils) an API-TC certification on the XPS lubrication website. My local area is not carrying XPS synthetic pwc oil, but my local mechanic said that full synthetic snow oil is the exact same oil and would work just fine. I looked through the datasheet and see they...

Not sure about the 951, but my 787 and 587 both don't make any sort of clanking sound. There's a bit of rattling at idle from the jet pump from basically all of them, but once you give it any RPM at all, it should completely go away.

That's really interesting. Do those keys work on any model year, or only 2001? I have a 1996 and would love one of the "kids keys" because my lake speed limit is 35 and it'd be nice to not have to worry about throttle position :)

Hopefully you didn't snip the red wire--you can just unplug it and plug it back in. In any case, it's not the rectifier. You mentioned you rebuilt the carbs, and you put them back together twice. Dumb question, because it doesn't say so anywhere: Where'd you get the carb rebuild kits? Are...