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Not really. I’m going to Marine Tex all of the crack and see how it holds up next season

The large exterior molded fiberglass engine hood is coming apart at the seam. I'm not sure what the gray material is but it has half way separated. It has fiberglass fibers in it but it don't look like epoxy. I guess I'm going to use marine tex to glue it back. It has cracked about half way...

The plug with the "E" pin is connector "B". Pin E is rectified +12 volts. With both connector "A" and "B" disconnected and with the fuses pulled I would think pin E supplies one side of the fuses. Check those for continuity. Data to the the gages look to go thru connector A, pins 1,2,4,5; +12...

Thats not a computer above the starter solenoid. It's a fuse block. Voltages in and voltages out. Out of all the electronic devices on your boat its the easiest to test. You can do a continuity test and a voltage test on it. The box under the dash kind of does the same thing.

The key will need to to programed with a new ECU and the cluster will need to be married to the new ECU.

For most electrical connections-anything bolted, crimped quick-connects, lightbulb sockets, and common 12-volt plugs-a dielectric grease or spray is the right answer. To apply, coat the contact surfaces and then assemble the connection as usual. The clamping pressure, whether a bolt or simply...

Its not just kinks in wires. Check out all of the connectors. The pins in the plug/jacks get corroded. Use dielectric grease.

So, when I was de-winterizing my speedster last month I replaced the battery. It has 2 negative cables attached to the battery and 1 positive cable. I forgot to hook up the second negative cable. Turned my battery switch on, no lights on my cluster and no beeping. I put my key on, still no...

Positive 12 volts is always supplied. You need to see if the ECM switches the ground, which turns on the cluster. Use a test light (or meter) with one lead on a +12 and the other lead on, I think, A-31 (or maybe A-15) coming from the VCM.

First, start cleaning all of the plug/jacks in the DESS system. Look for corrosion. Use dielectric grease when assembling.

I hate to say this but it sounds like the ECM. Even if the gauge cluster is blank the beeper should work and the engine should start.

yes

Remember +12 is supplied, its the ground that the ECU switches. Do you have +12 going to the coils and injectors when the keys is on?

So that means this diagram is valid for your boat. Make sure your battery is good, you say its charged but. Your going to have to start tracing the power distribution. I would start at the starter solenoid. To me it sounds like your losing between the fuse box and ECM.

Look for these 4 inline fuses near the battery switch.

I think your wiring is the same as my 07 single engine Speedster. The manual I got the wiring diagram is titled "2007 Seadoo 150 Speedster 180 Challenger Shop Manual". I think they changed in 09. Your beeper may not be working. These electrical problems are tough due to the scarcity of...

Looks like they changed to your style in 09. The 08 is the same as the earlier models.

Got to remember an important fact when working on the electrical on these boats; the ECU switches the ground, +12 is supplied to all components, its the ground that turns on and off. If you left your key on the DESS post with the battery switched on, the boat should have been beeping like crazy...

The second fuse box is on the VCM, which is under the dash behind the gauge cluster. The attached wire diagram is for my 2007 Speedster.

You could also get water into the engine by improperly running it on the hose. If those compression readings are correct it might not be rings but a problem in the head, which could explain the water in the oil.