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RX951
07-11-08, 06:16 PM
Well, I have had a gremlin on my 1998 GTI fuel system that has had me stumped for about 4 days now (electrical).

I did some troubloeshooting and found that the fuel sending unit baffle had a blown fuse on the internal circuit board.
This is a common problem on Sea-Doo's.
Another common problem I ruled out was the fuel float getting fuel in it making it not float, but it was o.k.

I was able to get access to a blueprint of the circuit board on the Sea-Doo fuel baffles and found there was a fuse that is on the circuit board to protect the board from surges.


I know this is not RXP or RXT related, but I want to post pics on what I did to fix it and the repair I done to the fuel baffle by using the plastic welding process.

This repair saved me over 150.00.

The repair of welding plastic can be done on almost anything with the right tip on the soldering iron and patience.
For this repair below, I used a plastic zip-tie to help seal the seam.
A white Zip-tie would have matched better, but this is what I had on hand.

For any of you that own sea-doo's and have the fuel guage stop reading, this is very common problem that occurs.

Top 3 problems are:

* fuel float full of fuel (very common)
* blown F1 fuse on circuit board (very common)
* bad connector on the sending unit plug (rare)
* bad guage (possible)

Once the repair was completed, I was able to obtain an OHM reading of 0.01 - 88.8 (empty-full).
The bar graph on my meter also showed the graduation chage from empty to full as I tipped the baffle from up/down to simulate a fuel level change.


First pic here, I used a Weller Soldering Iron to cut open a hole to get an internal view of the circuit board and the location of the F1 fuse near the top.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y32/dandbesales/Sea-Doo%20fuel%20Baffle%20Repair/PICT2745.jpg

Found the fuse and removed it by unsoldering it from its location.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y32/dandbesales/Sea-Doo%20fuel%20Baffle%20Repair/PICT2750.jpg

I then filled in the gap with solder where the F1 fuse use to be.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y32/dandbesales/Sea-Doo%20fuel%20Baffle%20Repair/PICT2746.jpg

I then use a clamp and proceed to close the flap I opened and begin the solder process.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y32/dandbesales/Sea-Doo%20fuel%20Baffle%20Repair/PICT2748.jpg

I begin to solder by using a Weller Soldering Iron with a plastic smearing/welding tip. This is included in all Weller Irons. I've this iron for over 15 years and this tip has come in handy several times for plastic repair.
I used the plastic of the tube to begin the fusing process. I added more plastic by using a Zip-Tie to add more material to help cloe in the seam. Zip-Ties are perfect for making plastic repair weld jobs. It melts at the right rate and is straight like a welding rod for laying in place as you smear it over the seam.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y32/dandbesales/Sea-Doo%20fuel%20Baffle%20Repair/PICT2749.jpg

Here is the final job completed. I used 1 8" Zip Tie to complete this job.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y32/dandbesales/Sea-Doo%20fuel%20Baffle%20Repair/PICT2751.jpg

Here is what the complete fuel supply assembly looks like.


http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y32/dandbesales/Sea-Doo%20fuel%20Baffle%20Repair/fuelbaffle.jpg

sanpan25
07-12-08, 04:27 PM
Very impressive!

Get rid of those grey fuel lines they are nothing but trouble!

I thought I was thrifty....are you Scottish..........:rofl::agree::agree::rofl:

Nate Surveyor
07-21-08, 11:50 AM
I love it!!
Now I have a good excuse to buy me a new soldering gun, with the paddle!

One quick question.

Without the fuse, is there a chance of fire down there?

My sending unit is a bit HARD to remove. Take off steering yoke, remove all hoses from top of sending unit. Pull up, and foreward, tweeking the tank a bit, and pushing down on the top of the tank a bunch, and it will JUST BARELY squeek out! I am worried about breaking the sending unit, after the repair, if it becomes more brittle due to the repair.

Is yours that hard to remove?

And a SECOND on GIT RID O' Dem gray fuel lines. They slowly melt into the fuel, and clog the carb filters. Making it run lean at throttle.

This is a great forum!

Thanks

Nate

JPX
07-22-08, 12:42 AM
I have designated RX951's thread as a Sticky for the How To Section. This is a highly valuable DIY for anyone experiencing problems with a fuel gauge that isn't working or that says the tank is empty when it is really full.

To make it easier for new members to see the Sticky, I have renamed the title of the thread from "Fuel Baffle Sending Unit Repair" to "Fix for Fuel gauge empty or light on when tank is full (fuel baffle/sender)".

Don't buy a replacement baffle until you try the tips in this thread. The worst that can happen if you break something, is you end up buying the replacement baffle anyway - you are at seadooforum.com.....you can Do It Yourself!:driving:

Regards,
JPX - seadooforum.com

The order in which to troubleshoot the 1994-2001 2 stroke models:


Here is my "probability" list.
1. bad float - sinks instead (in the tank baffle)
2. dropped a magnet from float (in the tank baffle) useful tool (http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=6421&highlight=jpx+float)
3. bad sender board (in the tank baffle)
4. bad connection
5. bad gauge
To get the baffle out of the GTX tank, you need to remove the small storage compartment under the handlbar to make room to pull it out - it is about 15 inches long. It takes a little weaseling to get it out, but it is very much something you can do right in the driveway or a garage with only screwdrivers. GSX/XP/SP hulls may require removing the steering assembly to get to the baffle. HX guys have it easy!
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/6/18105060198.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8363023) http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/6/18105014775.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8363012) http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/18903000365.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8402943)

Once you remove the baffle from the tank, you can very easily test if it works my moving the float up and down the tube and watching the gauge. Just don't start the engine while the tank openings are exposed.

I drained and plugged a hole I found in the float. These two items fixed the problem! I would actually suggest replacing the float if it "doesn't float" anymore Part#295500438. You can see the magnets Karl was referring to below.
http://www.parkeryamaha.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=27436
http://www.parkeryamaha.com/ProductImages/pwc4/295500438.jpg http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/18903000396.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8402944)

As already described in the previous posts, I also bridged a nonreplaceable fuse on the circuit board as shown below. This required cutting open the baffle tube to get to it (off the boat for safety please). Then I soldered a solid connection across where the fuse is. This might not be necessary in your case if the float is found to be bad.
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/20001384727.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/6046653) http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/20001384760.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/6046654)

Credits to our members of Seadooforum.com for their contribution posts on this subject:
99speedster's fuel sending post - initial request to make a sticky (http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=6138&referrerid=1547)
KustomKarl's wiring test of the fuel gauge and sender/baffle (http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=6294&referrerid=1547)
And of course RX951 for opening up this topic with extensive detail!:cheers:

Reference photos in case you get lost with all the fuel hoses and connections: (typical 1990s Seadoo 2 stroke carbs)
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/6/web/618000-618999/618555_112_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/6/web/618000-618999/618555_115_full.jpg

Nate Surveyor
07-22-08, 08:58 AM
When I first got this Sea Doo, I thought GREAT! It has marine grade fuel lines, so that won't become an issue! Boy was I wrong!
I spent all of yesterday CLEANING the carb filter. I tried: Silicone spray, Carb cleaner, rubbing alcohol, white vinegar and water, in an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner. There was just a residue of GLUE that had a slight greenish color. The fuel lines were disintegrating into the fuel, and piling up in the carb filter. Now, I hate to spend money for anything but gas! (I just haven't found a way around that yet!) And, Parts and Shipping are high. But, I bought 25 feet of black fuel line. It is the EFI kind, with the good liner. 3.99 a foot! + more for tax!

Yes, my dear frugal friends, I blew a hunnerd bucks on FUEL LINE!:ack:I know I could have gotten some for less money. But, hey, the disaster of the old stuff is so bad, I did it. Then I had to buy clamps too. But, my point is, some of you are holding off on replacing those lines, (Maybe it will work a little longer) But, the resinous garbage it is adding to your fuel system makes for a glue, that attaches all particles of other stuff, piles it all up in the carbs, and I REALLY HATE BEING STRANDED, and restricted to idling, or 1/4 throttle, to get back to the camp, & Shore!

This is my experience with those gray fuel lines. (Hang the buying agent for sea doo that skimped a little at the point of decision at Sea Doo!)

Best Regards to all,

Nate

derek
08-13-08, 06:43 AM
the efi fuel lines are made to stand up to 40 psi of fuel pressure. that is why 4 bucks a foot. there is no pressure to speak of in this fuel system, except for the fuel injected models. and then it is under pressure for the length from the fuel pump to the injectors. that is the only piece of line that needs to be efi hose.

slesto
09-01-08, 05:58 PM
You are awesome... I have two jetskis with this problem... already fixed one... saving me $$$$

catlift
09-10-08, 12:25 AM
OK, where do I begin? Thank you, thank you, thank you. I bought a 97 GTX for the wife and kids last weekend. The marina I bought it from said the fuel gauge was bad and he fix it by replacing the sending unit for over $300 (labor and parts) or it was most likely the guage which would run another $600 +. Knowing I bought it for the kids and I didn't want them to run out gas, he figured I would go ahead and spend the extra grand. I told him not to worry about it I would get it done myself. After joining the site this week and reading this thread, I thought to myself, there is no way I could possibly do this and checked into just ordering a $150 baffle and installing it myself and get ready to buy a $450 guage. Then I read it a few more times and realized you were right, I was going to replace it anyway, I might as well cut it up and give it a try. What do I have to lose? I'm going to toss it and replace it anyway. I must admit, my confidence in both my luck with this being the problem and my ability to perform the task was really against me. I did just as you suggested. Yes, my float was full of gas. I drained it and pluged the hole. Still no reading on my meter. Then I went ahead and cut it up and soldered the F1 fuse. Holy crap, I got a reading. Again, I said to myself, with my luck I'm about to find out my guage is bad anyway. And wouldn't you know it, I plugged it up and my fuel guage lit up!!!!!
Thank you again for saving me the money and giving me the confidence to continue working on my kids new toy. I truly appreciate it and if I can ever return the favor with a good fix, I will do so. You guys are great!
Phillip

masta2000
09-28-08, 05:18 PM
excellent work guys, i just did the fuse on the pump and now gauge works !!!!!

MOJAVE
11-04-08, 01:25 PM
Thanks alot guys.....screwdriver, dremel, soldering iron, and 20 minutes and it was fixed. You guys are the best!!!

One question though.........is it neccessary to completely seal up the hole I cut to remove the blown fuse?? Fuel is in that area anyway...what would be the purpose? Thanks, Jim

Neal B
11-13-08, 11:38 AM
My fuel gauge fix was easier than some because it was in the fuel float or sending unit. Enclosed are pics of the two floats. The dark one on the left was a solid material item, unable to drain fuel, and it was saturated and would float in water but not in fuel. I did purchase a new float, on the right, which was hollow. There is a different type of magnet arrangement on the old (won't fall out) than the new (which can fall out) but works the same once inserted into the baffle. I checked the unit with an ohm meter after installing the new float. By moving the baffle sideways, with the sending unit installed, I could ensure the float was moving properly and the ohms changed from what would be a full to empty condition. Reinstalled and worked perfertly in the ski. On the 95 GTS I had to go to "fuse change" procedure explained.:hurray:

faded
12-28-08, 03:52 PM
the 2 pics do NOT match the pic on the botttom left has the vent on the right, the pic on the right has the vent on the left. now i'm really confused.







Reference photos in case you get lost with all the fuel hoses and connections: (typical 1990s Seadoo 2 stroke carbs)
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/6/web/618000-618999/618555_112_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/6/web/618000-618999/618555_115_full.jpg




can someone please tell me where the wires on the baffle are in relation to the "alignment notch"? the wires come out the side. is this the same as the "notch". what is this notch we speak of? i have everything back together except four these four hose ends. thank you.

Skatman
12-28-08, 06:23 PM
The pix appear to me as, "in general". Look at your baffle. You'll see markings as to what hose goes where. All the fuel baffles I've seen are marked.:cheers:

faded
12-28-08, 06:45 PM
The pix appear to me as, "in general". Look at your baffle. You'll see markings as to what hose goes where. All the fuel baffles I've seen are marked.:cheers:


yes it was. in big huge letters. i'm a litle slow some times. :biggrinjester:

waiting for the battery to charge now. :cheers:

popasodatastie
01-02-09, 09:02 PM
One thing i've noticed about the seadoo machine and i'm not 100% but i keep having problems with the magnets in the fuel sending unit. This it what i did i took the sending unit out and poped the bottom piece off and i have found that the magnets accually came out of the float. What i did was melted a zip tie to magnet and the float now the float and magnet have never came apart. Oh and as for the grey lines what was seadoo thinking?