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Dr Honda
06-26-10, 12:41 PM
Hi Guys,

As most of you know, when someone on this board says "I have cavitation"... the normal response is... "Change your wear ring." But... most of you guys have never done it, and are a little scared to pop the jet pump off of your boat. So what happens?? you take it to a dealer where they say... "You need an impeller, and a pump rebuild. So, Mr Smith... please bend over as we shove this $1000 repair bill up your A-- ! "


This post is to show you that it's very easy to change your wear ring with basic tools. The only special tool you will need is an impeller tool. You can get them on eBay for as little as $15 shipped, or from the site sponsor for a reasonable price. (and it supports this board)


So... Let's get started.


Remove the Pump


I'm not going to give a full pictorial on this because it is simple.

1) Remove the cooling hose from inside the hull. (and bailer hoses if you have them) They are on the transom, and held on with hose clamps.

2) Remove any cables hooked to the pump. (Steering, Reverse, and VTS)

3) Remove the nozzle. (4 bolts)

4) remove the pump. (4 nuts)


NOTES: The pump may be glued on if some hill-billy mechanic worked on it. So carefully pry it away from the hull. Also, there may be shims under the pump studs. Mark them, and their location. It is important to put them back in the proper location to keep your drive shaft aligned.


Now that the pump is out... go to the work bench, and lets start.

As you can see, the clearance on this ring was still very tight, but the surface is very scared. This ring was only showing cavitation at a full throttle hit, from a dead stop. For most people, it was still acceptable, but I like to be able to mash it after I spin out.



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/Tony4aro/Boat/P6260843.jpg




Disassembly


First thing to do is remove the tail cone. There are 3 screws holding it on. Remove them, and give it a little twist to break the seal. Now, before you remove the cone, hold it over the trash can, or a little bowl. There is gear lube in it, and it's going to spill out once you open it. Now... let it drain for a couple minutes. If your pump is in good shape... your oil should be clean and have a Honey color to it. (and be very clear)


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/Tony4aro/Boat/P6260844.jpg


Now, see the flats on the shaft? Put that in a vice. This will hold the shaft, and give you a nice way to work on it.

At this point, you should be looking at the front of the impeller. Remove the rubber cone seal from the front, and install your impeller removal tool. Then, with your favorite wrench... twist it off the pump shaft.

BTW... With the impeller out, there is nothing holding the pump on to the shaft. So if you lift the housing, it will come off the shaft.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/Tony4aro/Boat/P6260845.jpg



Now we cut the ring. I prefer to use a demolition saw. It make short work of an old ring. But, half of a hack saw blade, with a short handle will work too.


You want to cut, just though the ring. Take your time, and make sure you don't cut the pump. With a factory ring, its easy to tell. As soon as the white dust disapers... stop. (you just went though the fiberglass core)



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/Tony4aro/Boat/P6260846.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/Tony4aro/Boat/P6260847.jpg



Now, tap a screw driver down both sides, to make sure that the ring is split, and, lift one side over the other. This will relive any pressure holding it in.




http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/Tony4aro/Boat/P6260848.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/Tony4aro/Boat/P6260849.jpg




Once you do that... just walk the screw driver around the top, and it will slowly lift out. (some times this will just lift out, after they are split)



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/Tony4aro/Boat/P6260851.jpg



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/Tony4aro/Boat/P6260852.jpg






If you have an aluminum housing... you may need to lightly sand away any oxidation. But if you have a plastic pump, just wipe it clean.



Installation



If you buy a factory ring (I recommend it) you will have no issues with it fitting. It should be a light press fit. It should tap in with a rubber mallet, or the rubber grip of a regular hammer. If you only have a metal hammer, use a block of wood to protect the new ring.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/Tony4aro/Boat/P6260853.jpg




Now, you can put your impeller back in. Clean the shaft, and check the seals. If they look good, put a few drops of RED thread locker on the shaft, and install the impeller. Be careful as you install it. You don't want to gouge the new ring. Also, as you are putting it back in... rock the housing back and forth to make sure it doesn't start to bind as it gets tight. After it's tightened down, you will notice some "in and out" play. This is normal if you don't have a cone with a pushing device in it.

Don't forget to put your cone seal back in the impeller, and make sure that the rubber bumper is in the end of the drive shaft, and not down in the impeller. After that... put a bunch of grease in the impeller splines, and go back out to the boat



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/Tony4aro/Boat/P6260854.jpg



Reinstall the pump




Put the pump back on the boat, the same way you took it off. Be sure to install a new neoprene seal on the pump shoe. Also, since your cone is still off... you can grab it, and twist the impeller to help line up the splines on the drive shaft.




http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/Tony4aro/Boat/P6260856.jpg



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/Tony4aro/Boat/P6260857.jpg




Now install the cone, and top it off with your favorite 75-90 synthetic gear lube.

Now, install the nozzle, VTS, reverse gate, and check for proper operation.

Total time is around an hour.

Hope this helps. :cheers:





Update for the 4-tech pumps


Hi all.

OK... for the majority of the people who will need a pump service... the above info is what you need. But, I have had a few people ask about the newer pumps, and there was a member (stinky) who was nice enough to send some pictures of a absolutely melted 4-tech pump.

So... here are the differences.



The melted pump



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/Tony4aro/Boat/IMG_8344.jpg





use a 12mm Allen key to hold your pump shaft



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/Tony4aro/Boat/IMG_8352.jpg






Use grease instead of the 75w-90 gear lube

After you get the new ring in... you fill the open spaces with your favorite waterproof grease. Some will squash out.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/Tony4aro/Boat/IMG_8349.jpg

scooper77515
06-26-10, 01:41 PM
Very good write up and nice pictures.

A suggestion: I find wear ring replacements to be a good time to inspect/replace bearings, and swap the oil in the cone and pressure test.

Can we make this a sticky and add those items? Or maybe it would be better to do those as separate threads but link to them from here.

Mods, feel free to delete this post if needed.

hfgreg
06-26-10, 01:46 PM
Stickied the thread. Great work on this! :cheers:

dooboy
06-26-10, 02:03 PM
hi i have a 95 seadoo gtx.. well it runs perfect in my driveway but when i go to the water it boggs down on me any ideas, fuel filter, mabe it gets to much oil and how would i ajust that?

M-N-M
06-28-10, 12:48 AM
Anything on the Merc. 2002 200hp single merc optimax?

gattoo
07-08-10, 06:22 PM
I have a question is the do it yourself wear ring job that you provided is the same to a 1999 SEADOO GTX RFI because im in that same boat soon....Thanks hope to hear from you soon

Dr Honda
07-09-10, 08:04 AM
I have a question is the do it yourself wear ring job that you provided is the same to a 1999 SEADOO GTX RFI because im in that same boat soon....Thanks hope to hear from you soon

Yes. The procedure is the same for all seadoo's.

Stinky187
07-16-10, 10:21 AM
Hi folks,

Just came aboard while looking for instructions and parts for a wear ring replacement.

Dr. Honda, this is an irreplaceable post and, if I may, exactly what I needed to pick up my tools, thanks.

The cone on my pump does not have a fill hole of any kind.

Does this mean I get to replace the cone on the pump with the impeller side up?

Dr Honda
07-17-10, 07:39 AM
Hi folks,

Just came aboard while looking for instructions and parts for a wear ring replacement.

Dr. Honda, this is an irreplaceable post and, if I may, exactly what I needed to pick up my tools, thanks.


Thanks. I try to help when I can.




The cone on my pump does not have a fill hole of any kind.

Does this mean I get to replace the cone on the pump with the impeller side up?



On the new 4-tech SeaDoo's... they have changed to grease. Just pack it with a good waterproof grease when you put it back together.

Stinky187
07-17-10, 10:18 PM
Great thanks,

Any suggestions on the grease? my parts will be here by the end of the week.

Stinky187
07-19-10, 05:01 PM
Thanks Tony,

Just spoke to Scott at Parker Yamaha and thankfully, my order hasn't shipped so he swapped out the jet pump oil for the jet pump grease.

Thanks again for the insight

rcket71c
08-10-10, 10:23 PM
SWEET POST :cheers: WE DONE 3 LAST SUMMER & 3 SETS OF BEARINGS , wish i saw this last summer , we looked like a couple monkeys there for a few days lol, this hole site is great

ejeraser
08-11-10, 10:04 AM
I changed the wear ring and everything looks good to go, I went to install it and it looks like everything thing is great on the bolt side of the pump. But when I look on the drive shaft side it looks like there may be some teeth still showing, I'm talking about a small amount. Is this normal? I do not remeber what it looked like when I pulled the pump. Also a quick note. I had the impeller re manufactured as well due to something getting in there and tearing everything apart. Now when I do crank the engine and or start it I hear a crackling noise coming from most likely inside the engine. Does anyone know what this could be after rebuilding the water pump. Is it not catching the drive shaft properly or do I have maybe some type of internal engine damage. I have heard this one time and had to rebuild the engine with new pistons rings and etc.. This was many years ago.

SurfBeat
08-21-10, 11:46 PM
Dr. H: That was a great Thread. In fact, one of the best, if not THE best I've read.

Now, if you can re-name it, "Changing Wear Ring For Dummies," then all of us Dummies will be able to find it easily.

mookerblu
09-02-10, 06:29 PM
I am planning on replacing my wear ring (on a RXP PWC) as soon as I get the parts, I just need a little clarification. As far as parts to order I would need the wear ring and a new neoprene seal (parts #2 & #3 on this page
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/seadooforums/Seadoo_oem/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=13&A=149&B=15)

I would also like to replace the impeller. Do I just need the Impeller assy (#17 from above page) or do i need more parts? (like the boot assembly).

I just don't want to get everything all apart and realize that I need another part! Thanks in advance :)

Woodstockaz
10-19-10, 06:07 PM
Great thread

Dr Honda
10-19-10, 09:53 PM
I am planning on replacing my wear ring (on a RXP PWC) as soon as I get the parts, I just need a little clarification. As far as parts to order I would need the wear ring and a new neoprene seal (parts #2 & #3 on this page
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/seadooforums/Seadoo_oem/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=13&A=149&B=15)

Yes.


I would also like to replace the impeller. Do I just need the Impeller assy (#17 from above page) or do i need more parts? (like the boot assembly).

I just don't want to get everything all apart and realize that I need another part! Thanks in advance :)

I wouldn't bother with the factory replacement. I would change to a skat-trak swirl for more low end grunt, and better accelleration... or a Solas Concord for better top speed.

ddaverowee
10-20-10, 10:55 AM
dr honda i have allready learned heaps from your post's, verry helpfull this one is perfect, i hope you never leave this site, Thanks for all your help!:cheers:

Woodstockaz
10-22-10, 03:41 PM
This job is fairly simple but can be very frustrating.
I bought my wear ring on ebay.
Taking it out was a pain, but if you cut it all the way through and then MAKE sure it overlaps coming out it should break free easily.
Getting the new wear ring in was a whole other story. I ended up having to take it to a buddies house to use the 12 ton press to get it in and even that was groaning and creaking. Not an easy fit.
My input...

Dr Honda
10-23-10, 06:52 AM
... I bought my wear ring on ebay.
................ I ended up having to take it to a buddies house to use the 12 ton press to get it in and even that was groaning and creaking. Not an easy fit.

Thanks for that.

Was your ring an OEM SeaDoo ring, or was it an aftermarket ring? Most of the time, the OEM rings are just a "Tap in" fit.

Woodstockaz
10-23-10, 10:41 AM
It was an OEM ring. extremely tight fit. No way I could have done it by hand. In hindsight I should have put it in the freezer for a while first and it probably would have gone in easier.

SoFlo2008
10-28-10, 09:24 PM
Great write up. Just finished doing the one on my wifes GTX and it was too easy. The only bad thing is I'm embarrassed how bad the old one was I took out. Should run great for her now..

THANKS!!

lauren bailey
03-07-11, 07:15 PM
Hi there again i was wondering if you had a post with pictures on how all the washers and bearings should look and how to put them all back in in order?

RebuiltSeadooBaffles
03-09-11, 01:14 PM
^That and how do you do a pressure test/where do i get the tools to do it?

Dr Honda
03-10-11, 08:34 AM
Hi there again i was wondering if you had a post with pictures on how all the washers and bearings should look and how to put them all back in in order?

Sorry... no, I dot' have any pictures of a pump rebuild. Snipe has some in "Snipes Corner."


^That and how do you do a pressure test/where do i get the tools to do it?

You can make a test tool with a simple air pump and a gauge. Just thread it into the oil fill hole, and pressurize the pump.

Lionking
05-22-11, 06:32 PM
Great write up, Would a symptom of a bad wear ring be: No top speed? My 06 GTI-se runs fine, smooth power delivery, reaches max RPM, but top speed is 28MPH, where last year this was a 50MPH ski. I had a rag caught up in the impeller, and after some bad vibrations, I pulled all that I could find out of the exit jet, but after that, I get no top speed out of the ski, motor runs and revs fine. Almost like an slipping transmission in a car. Any help would be appreciated.

scooper77515
05-22-11, 07:18 PM
Lionking, sounds like a bad wear ring.

motor runs fine, and revs right up, but no thrust...

Lionking
05-23-11, 10:17 AM
Thanks Scooper, got the parts ordered this AM, and I'll let you know how it turned out.

kitester
06-11-11, 09:58 AM
HI to all,

I have an Explorer. I think the pump is the same as the one in the article. I got the pump off and that took some doing since the studs were corroded to the housing. The wear ring is hard against the impeller from the same corrosion. I know I need a removal tool so my first question is where to get one. Suggestions? My second question is how will I remove the impeller if I cant turn it? It is so stuck and I dont want to damage anything. The third question is once it is out should I sand or use a wire brush on a drill to clean up the inside? The last question is once it is clean is there a good way to coat the pump so it wont corrode again?

Thanks in advance.

srilla
06-12-11, 05:23 PM
awesome thread. quick question tho. the guy that had my yamaha befor me put in a stainless steal wear ring in instead of a rubber (does not make any sence to me) should i take the metal wear ring out and put in a rubber one befor it starts to wear down my impeller?
thanks

needsmorecoffee
07-01-11, 02:01 AM
I have followed the instructions exactly and they have been very helpful, but my problem is when I pulled the pump I noticed that there is no boot on the driveshaft at the impeller end. When I pulled the pump the driveshaft remained sticking out of the hull end. As I have never seen one before can you tell me if the boot somehow inserts into the impeller and then the driveshaft goes thru the boot? I also keep hearing something about a carbon ring, where is the carbon ring located? Thanks, Steve

1jetman
07-30-11, 06:04 PM
Thanks for the instructions and pic's!!! Much better than reading and viewing the shop manual!!

xtremedesign10
08-01-11, 10:36 AM
I have a 2009 speedster 150 255hp SC.... Took off my pump and can't seem to find anywhere online a spline/impeller removal tool! Would it work to put it back on the drive shaft put the boat in gear and crank on the 12mm allen wrench?

Dr Honda
08-01-11, 11:04 AM
I have a 2009 speedster 150 255hp SC.... Took off my pump and can't seem to find anywhere online a spline/impeller removal tool! Would it work to put it back on the drive shaft put the boat in gear and crank on the 12mm allen wrench?

Nope... all you will do is turn the engine. AND... if you try to hold the driveshaft... you could bend it. So, it's not advised.

Here's your tool

http://www.parkeryamaha.com/wr011solasimpellertoolseadoo4tec.aspx

xtremedesign10
08-01-11, 11:15 AM
Thanks... So even though this is a solas tool.. it works for the factory part? So when I receive this tool.. use my 12mm to hold where I removed the cone and turn the impeller tool counter clockwise? Right?

lauren bailey
08-02-11, 12:20 AM
check out sbt they have removal tools for your impeller

jerrygena
08-03-11, 07:17 PM
Hey now, this is the kind of post that should be made a sticky here................thanks doc, you always help all you can.

Dr Honda
08-03-11, 08:01 PM
it was a sticky, and it got bumped for some reason. (not in my control)

LKGrider
01-26-12, 06:51 PM
Is there any torque spec when installing the impeller back on or just "tight"

seadoosnipe
01-30-12, 11:43 PM
Depending on your model, between 35-60 psi, and upwards of 90, depending on who you ask. Impros suggest 90 on their new stainless impellers.

I usually just tighten mine up with red loctite. Shaft spins opposite of threads, so it won't back off. Just make sure if your doing the older, 2 stroke pumps, you don't pin the thrust washer under the shaft. There is a lip on the shaft that can catch that washer. When you tighten the shaft, before you put your nose cone on, push the shaft in and out against the pump. There should be about 1/4" of play. It should also spin freely. If its tight and the impeller isn't hitting the ring, check your thrust washer....... If this is a 4-TEC, disreguard.

bdepew
04-19-12, 11:09 PM
have a 1994 SPX

I am trying to replace the hull insert and the rubber boot, but I cant get the housing off and dont want to damage anything. Any pointers?

thanks in advance!

Brian

Dooinfine
06-19-12, 08:07 AM
Thanks Dr. Honda for the info.
Does anyone have an opinion on replaceing the liner (Sleeve) with a stainless wear ring and are they available for a 2004 Utopia 185 with a merc 240 EFI? Looks like both impeller and sleeve need to be replaced, I believe I will go with a Skat trac swirl and I think i would like to replace the sleeve with a stainless unit if it is available.
Can someone confirm the above procedure is the one for my boat and what parts are required to be replaced other than impeller and sleeve, I.E. seals and gaskets?

Thank you in advance,
Tim

Dr Honda
06-19-12, 09:16 AM
The Merc boats are a totally different animal. They don't have a "Wear ring". They have a mid housing that is sacrificial. BUT... it's a $450 "Sacrificial" part. (in my book that's nuts) A seadoo ring is only about $45~$50

Normally, I don't recommend a stainless ring for a seadoo, since they don't do much for the performance, and they wear the impeller, and bearings quicker.

On the Merc boats... you dont' have a choice. It's either $450 for a new housing, or $450 for ImPros to install a stainless ring in your housing. Either way... it's hard on the impeller... but the stainless ring will continue to live.

Finally... as far as I know... the only aftermarket impeller for the Merc boats is from Solas. Merc makes a few diffident impellers... but they are all crazy expensive.

Dooinfine
06-19-12, 08:47 PM
Thank you Dr. Honda

I was suspecting something was not rite but when I read the above post it stated All Seadoo boats so we should change that to all Seadoo boats with a seadoo engine and Pump. For you suckers with the Mercury stuff dig deep and take a deep breath if this has to be done.

Seriously thank you for the update, I felt mine was different just did not want to ask a question that appeared to be clearly stated ALL Seadoo boats and get flamed my very first post.

In you opinion am I better to have IMpros install a sleeve or purchase a new one. My dealer was $550.00 for a new one plus taxes and the impeller was 500.00 that is why I was looking at Skat trac and Solas.
I was noticing that the insulation all arond the engine compartment is deteriorating and needs replacing can you recommend where to get it. I was told I can purhase it in a sheet and cut to size.

JCzGTX
06-20-12, 12:14 PM
Bust
Out
Another
Thousand

Dooinfine
06-20-12, 01:13 PM
Bust
Out
Another
Thousand

Yeah Hoo, you got to pay to play, Good thing I cant play everyday Id be broke!

noobie
07-03-12, 09:33 AM
When replacing the wear ring on my 96 GTI the gear oil was BLACK and burnt smelling, do I have an additional issue? Also are there any other parts that I should replace while I have this thing apart?

noobie
07-04-12, 01:39 PM
Okay, I need a little help. I have replaced my wear ring and put everything back together. I noticed that there were no shims on the unit when I pulled it all apart,but now that it is all together it is having a hard time turning over (enough that it wont start). What do you all suggest I do at this point?

LouDoo
07-08-12, 08:04 AM
I was at the lake yesterday and discovered I needed a new wear ring. No surprise, so when I got home I removed the pump and I was ready to cut out the old wear ring with the Saw Zall. Well I don't know why but I tried another tool that I had recently purchased from our friends at Harbor Freight.

The tool worked great, it went through the old wear ring like (as they say in NY) butter. I think I bought the tool when in was on sale for less than $20.00. Anyway it's much easier and safer than the saw zall.

http://www.harborfreight.com/oscillating-multifunction-power-tool-68861.html\

Lou

Dr Honda
07-08-12, 09:30 AM
I keep looking at that tool, and think I may need one. Besides... if you get the 20% off coupon... the price is even better.

Seadoobuddy
07-08-12, 11:14 AM
mmmmmm the HF page is no longer available. or is it my browser that's acting up?

I assume it was a rotary cutting tool of some sort?????


As Lou as said before we need to get HF as an advertiser or a sponsor.

LouDoo
07-08-12, 02:55 PM
Try this one.

http://www.harborfreight.com/oscillating-multifunction-power-tool-68861.html

Seadoobuddy
07-08-12, 11:11 PM
Ahhhhh yes, I know that tool "well" My doc used one to cut off my cast last year. It hit my skin and didn't do a thing to it...but cut thru the cast real good.

noobie
07-10-12, 11:19 AM
Well I finished my wear ring! I think I may of had things a little too tight. I went back and took it apart and reapplied loctite and assembled with no problems. Great info on this thread thanks a LOT!!!

TheGunMan
07-17-12, 06:05 PM
what silicone should I use ofr sealing the pump to the hull /upper left side ot the pump/

I know it is loctite 598 ultra black as per manual but If I cant find it around what else I can use?

LouDoo
07-17-12, 06:51 PM
This is what I use, you can get it at Lowes, Home Depot. Strong stuff.

http://vintage.failed-dam.org/thisisgl.wav

Lou

KKing
07-18-12, 01:09 AM
Awesome writeup. Our 95 GTX is acting up but I can't decide if it's a fuel problem or wear ring. If you throw your thumb to full throttle from sitting still it wants to bog, but if you let off the throttle a little bit it goes right on no problem. After that it gets to top speed no problem. We had the carbs rebuilt so I'm thinking wear ring. Thoughts?

TheGunMan
07-18-12, 01:20 PM
make sure that the rubber bumper is in the end of the drive shaft, and not down in the impeller

What is that rubber bumper and where is it located?

Wen I removed the pump there was nothing left on the drive shaft

LouDoo
07-18-12, 01:25 PM
There should be a bumper on both ends of the drive shaft, it's part no. 12. Since you didn't specify a ski I just picked one, I believe they are all the same, but you should check just to make sure.

http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/seadooforums/showmodel.asp?Type=13&make=seadoopwc&A=210&B=17&modelid=1996%20Sea%20Doo%20PWC%20XP%20DRIVE%20SYST EM

Lou

TheGunMan
07-18-12, 01:34 PM
it is 95 GTX

It is there - with the grease on the shaft and rubber bumper it looks more than part ot the shaft to me :blush: /i did not clean the shaft end yet/

Lou, you sre like my angel - if I have question you always answer it in next 5 mins - THANK YOU!!!

TheGunMan
07-18-12, 06:24 PM
Another problem - the wear ring is all the way in but the impeller can't get in :(

any ideas hot to do it?

Thanks

Edit: it looks like the pump housing has different # 271 000 249 than the one for rhis model in the service manual and most likely this tight fit caused the damage of the old wear ring - the inner plastic shell was stripped out.

I an stuck very bad in the middle ov nowhere and neer help :(

The inner diameter of the wear ring in the housing is 139.33 mm

Do I need new impeler and if yes which one exactly

Thank you

LouDoo
07-18-12, 06:56 PM
I don't think it's the impeller, did you use an OEM wear ring?

Lou

TheGunMan
07-18-12, 07:02 PM
I don't think it's the impeller, did you use an OEM wear ring?

Lou

yes, purchased from parkeryamaha.com this http://www.parkeryamaha.com/seadoowearring271000290.aspx as per manual the part # is 271 000 290

Edit: It turned out that due to the tight fit it has to be centered very good in order to slide in. It is in now and it is screwed to the shaft in the pump.

Does it have to spin free or it has to have some resistance to spin?

Thanks

Yatesbaits
07-19-12, 11:45 AM
Is there any way to pull the impeller without the tool im going out of town and dont have time to wait for the tool to be shipped.

superheropunk
07-23-12, 02:40 PM
Is there any way to pull the impeller without the tool im going out of town and dont have time to wait for the tool to be shipped.

I would wait until I had the right tool.

LouDoo
07-23-12, 02:43 PM
If you have an old drive shaft you can heat it bend it at a 90 degree angle.

Lou

gdubb
07-23-12, 03:53 PM
I was noticing on line that the wear ring kit is pretty expensive. It looks like in the pricing that it includes the entire housing. Is this the case? Also, In my case a piece of the intake grate broke and went through the impeller somehow and damaged the Stator. How important is it for the Stator to be in smooth condition?

viper0173
07-26-12, 08:49 AM
hey guys i little trick i use to replace wear ring. have done this many times with noo issues. put the pump in freezer for 15 min as well as new ring. the old ring should slid right out and the new one right in. no cutting required.

100guard
08-03-12, 12:25 PM
Do I win for the best wear ring failure?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/petawawa/Seadoo/th_IMG_8255.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v283/petawawa/Seadoo/?action=view&current=IMG_8255.jpg) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/petawawa/Seadoo/th_IMG_8254.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v283/petawawa/Seadoo/?action=view&current=IMG_8254.jpg) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/petawawa/Seadoo/th_IMG_8253.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v283/petawawa/Seadoo/?action=view&current=IMG_8253.jpg) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/petawawa/Seadoo/th_IMG_8252.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v283/petawawa/Seadoo/?action=view&current=IMG_8252.jpg) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/petawawa/Seadoo/th_IMG_8249.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v283/petawawa/Seadoo/?action=view&current=IMG_8249.jpg)


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/petawawa/Seadoo/IMG_8258.jpg
I had no clue these things were designed to wear out LOL. Yes, I'm still new lol. I freaked out thinking I had to replace the entire pump housing....*shudders*.

This is me trying to needle-nose pliers it out first few times hehe. Finally it gave way.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/petawawa/Seadoo/IMG_8261.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/petawawa/Seadoo/IMG_8270.jpg


Depending on your model, between 35-60 psi, and upwards of 90, depending on who you ask....I usually just tighten mine up with red loctite. Shaft spins opposite of threads, so it won't back off. Just make sure if your doing the older, 2 stroke pumps, you don't pin the thrust washer under the shaft. There is a lip on the shaft that can catch that washer. When you tighten the shaft, before you put your nose cone on, push the shaft in and out against the pump. There should be about 1/4" of play. It should also spin freely. If its tight and the impeller isn't hitting the ring, check your thrust washer...
Thanks for this...I'm a blatant DIY n00b...and even worse mechanic...but I think I can handle this. I'm really keen to confidnetly know how tight to tighten things, and where to put grease before calling it a successful repair.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/petawawa/Seadoo/IMG_8271.jpg
If you have a look...I think I still have a cm or less of the wear ring remaining? So I just remove that somehow, and I'm good to install new? Assuming I check the impeller and verify the bottom fin isn't bent and scraping? I think it is. It may just be brushing the frayed wear ring right now (I"M HOPING)..and not ACTUALLy bent out of wack and touching the edge.


hey guys i little trick i use to replace wear ring. have done this many times with noo issues. put the pump in freezer for 15 min as well as new ring. the old ring should slid right out and the new one right in. no cutting required.

assuming wifey doesn't mind the lingering smell of spilled oil or whatever in the freezer afterwards hehe.

Wear Ring (I haven't bought a new one yet so don't now) is supposed to be quite firm yes? So this wear ring (or what's left) being as malleable as can be must mean it was never changed? ever? lol? Doh. Should I proactively change both then while I'm at it? I can't find aftermarket, and OEM is $60 here...I don't want to wait for an Ebay order so I can get them for $30 or $40 :(.

100guard
08-03-12, 08:04 PM
...The only special tool you will need is an impeller tool. You can get them on eBay for as little as $15 shipped, or from the site sponsor for a reasonable price. (and it supports this board)...
I was quoted $90CDN for an original one from one of two local Seadoo dealerships in the area. Blew my mind.

I found LOTS from your price to in fact the same $99 price tag on Ebay??? !!!! wow.

One question: I never found one listing compatibilty with my 99 Speedster. Are they universal? I want a particularly long one because I don't want to end up with a short grip. I like to be elbow deep if you catch my drift :).

Anyway, I'm also wondering about just finding an old drive shaft, and elbowing it out.

The guy I went to today had welded a socket piece to the end of a drive shaft which he then just connected a socket wrench to. Nifty. I-was-jealous.

I'll check the site sponsor. Anybody know if they're long and more importantly how much shipping is to Ottawa, Canada? Only the bigger sellers tend to have reasonable rates north of the border, so at times it's a little pricey.

Anybody ever see these in a mechanics toolchest? Would Napa or Princess Auto carry a splined socket bit?

100guard
08-03-12, 08:14 PM
..... you take it to a dealer where they say... "You need an impeller, and a pump rebuild. So, Mr Smith... please bend over as we shove this $1000 repair bill up your A-- ! "
lawl. I just read that one guy who was quoted $2000 in Toronto!!!!!!!!!!!! wow.

In all fairness though, last year, I had my pump shaft semi fuse to the jet pump, so a lot of labour involved with getting it out, salvaging this and that, and I still came out to $900....and yes......no lube was applied.
....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/Tony4aro/Boat/P6260856.jpg....
Methinks the boat didn't have this to begin with. I didn't see it when I took it out.

Is this really necessary? Precautionary? For $8 I'm not skimpin' out but just curious.

100guard
08-20-12, 11:37 AM
....The tool worked great, it went through the old wear ring like (as they say in NY) butter. I think I bought the tool when in was on sale for less than $20.00. Anyway it's much easier and safer than the saw zall....
http://www.harborfreight.com/oscillating-multifunction-power-tool-68861.html\

Lou
http://www.harborfreight.com/oscillating-multifunction-power-tool-68861.html

That's the working link. The extra slash you added at the end kills the link.

I was looking at something like this actually at Canadian Tire up here (~$50), but wondering which blade you used? The circular one needs a lot of clearance to get down there as it's...a circule lol. Unless you cut all of one half of it away to make it narrower?

Guest_User
08-21-12, 09:28 AM
hey guys i little trick i use to replace wear ring. have done this many times with noo issues. put the pump in freezer for 15 min as well as new ring. the old ring should slid right out and the new one right in. no cutting required.
Ding Ding Ding! works everytime!

Do I win for the best wear ring failure?

(.
you have my vote!:D

jombie
08-26-12, 06:42 PM
Just a heads up to anyone having problems removing the wear ring.
I was having a beast of a problem with mine...tried freezing etc.

Ended up noticing 4 bolts installed that bolted thru the pump housing and into the wear ring.
Undid those and the old wear ring slipped right out.
I'm not sure if a previous tech and modded this or not I have an 04 4-tec Sportster
I've had it serviced at 2 sea doo dealers. Both of which are now out of business...

100guard
08-28-12, 12:58 AM
...Ended up noticing 4 bolts installed that bolted thru the pump housing and into the wear ring.
...

HUH? What bolts??? The mounting bolts for the boot., don't have anything to do with the wear ring area...were these MacGyver'ish bolts...functional somehow? That's just weird.

Dr Honda
08-29-12, 11:25 AM
HUH? What bolts??? The mounting bolts for the boot., don't have anything to do with the wear ring area...were these MacGyver'ish bolts...functional somehow? That's just weird.

He has a 155mm pump, and it has bolts going into the wear ring to keep it from spinning.

100guard
08-29-12, 11:31 AM
Doh! got it. So was that normal then? Not a mistake by the garage?

nammer
11-16-12, 09:19 PM
Hi everybody, I know there are are tons of threads on how to replace wear ring, and they seem simple enough, but I ran into some problems. I have a 1996 spi, and I am trying to remove the jet pump. I can't figure out how to remove the steering cable, am I supposed to push it through or something? I have attached a picture, also I removed the 4 outtermost bolts, and the pump is not moving, it also seems to be sealed by some sort of sealant or silicone? Am I on the right track?

gazza2010au
11-16-12, 09:29 PM
Hi everybody, I know there are are tons of threads on how to replace wear ring, and they seem simple enough, but I ran into some problems. I have a 1996 spi, and I am trying to remove the jet pump. I can't figure out how to remove the steering cable, am I supposed to push it through or something? I have attached a picture, also I removed the 4 outtermost bolts, and the pump is not moving, it also seems to be sealed by some sort of sealant or silicone? Am I on the right track?4th pic looks like the bolt is already removed u just need to push the swivel joint out also the pumps have silicone try pushing down and pulling up on the nozzle to free the silicone

nammer
11-16-12, 09:34 PM
hey gazza2010au, thanks for your help, yea i took the bolt out, but I can't seem to figure out how to get the steering off, what do you mean "push the swivel joint out"? which way, like through it up and down?

Dr Honda
11-16-12, 10:13 PM
With the bolt out... the ball end should slide out of the nozzle knuckle. Put a thin screwdriver behind it... and give it a twist.

gazza2010au
11-16-12, 10:57 PM
hey gazza2010au, thanks for your help, yea i took the bolt out, but I can't seem to figure out how to get the steering off, what do you mean "push the swivel joint out"? which way, like through it up and down?the ball joint the bolt u removed that runs thru it will just pull out to the right side once the bolt is removed theres nothing holding the steering cable in there although i do see some dirt just pull the cable to the right softly than undo your 4 pump bolts than lift up the pump nozzle and push it down keep on doing this untill the seal breaks free than u can remove your pump make sure u dont loose the little rubber boot thats on the end of your drive shaft

nammer
11-16-12, 11:13 PM
With the bolt out... the ball end should slide out of the nozzle knuckle. Put a thin screwdriver behind it... and give it a twist.


the ball joint the bolt u removed that runs thru it will just pull out to the right side once the bolt is removed theres nothing holding the steering cable in there although i do see some dirt just pull the cable to the right softly than undo your 4 pump bolts than lift up the pump nozzle and push it down keep on doing this untill the seal breaks free than u can remove your pump make sure u dont loose the little rubber boot thats on the end of your drive shaft


thanks drhonda and gazza2010au, i'll def try that, I'll you guys know how it works out, I really appreciate the help.

nammer
11-17-12, 12:49 AM
so just like you guys said, it did slide out with a little force from a screwdriver, i also removed the back of the pump, now I'm still stuck with this still in there, I did remove the 4 bolts, but it doesn't seem to budge, should i get a heat gun? or use something to pry it? or am I missing anything

gazza2010au
11-17-12, 01:03 AM
so just like you guys said, it did slide out with a little force from a screwdriver, i also removed the back of the pump, now I'm still stuck with this still in there, I did remove the 4 bolts, but it doesn't seem to budge, should i get a heat gun? or use something to pry it? or am I missing anythingdefiantly dont use heat your pump now is only holding by silicone i leave the steering cone on and use that for leverage to lift the pump up and down

gazza2010au
11-17-12, 07:00 AM
nammer here u go a seadoo pump removal although i keep the steering nozzle bolted on while i remove the pump in one piece than disassemble
from your first picture it looks like someone used a massive amount of silicone so its going to take some force u may need to raise the front of your ski than place your feet on the back of the ski while pulling on the pump while u do this wiggle the pump up and down left and right dont give in lol :thumbsup:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zj61_GthJqg

nammer
11-17-12, 10:09 AM
thanks gazza2010au, i actually saw that one before, it looks easy enough, but I can't get that off for the life of me, sorry for asking the same question, but may I ask why it would be so terrible to use a heat gun. I even like u said, had my feet on the back of the ski, and pulled and pulled the pump

gazza2010au
11-17-12, 02:29 PM
thanks gazza2010au, i actually saw that one before, it looks easy enough, but I can't get that off for the life of me, sorry for asking the same question, but may I ask why it would be so terrible to use a heat gun. I even like u said, had my feet on the back of the ski, and pulled and pulled the pumpits RTV mate its heat resistant designed for sealing engines

TheGunMan
11-17-12, 02:49 PM
My 2 cents

I got about 14 inches peace of wood 2x3 /this is what I had in the garage/ drilled 1/2 inch holes so when i place the wood over the pump with nozle off I can put screw trough the holes on the wood and screw it in the mounting holes for the nozle / diagonal - aiming two oposite holes / in the way the wood is against the boat. Got threaded rod M8 /check what is your bolt size for mounting the nozle/ and cut teo pcs to about 5 to 6 inches. Got M8 nuts /two pcs/ and some washers so the nut can't go trough the hole in the wood. Screw the rods in the pump abot 1/2 inch in the two oposite holes / i used upper left and lower right/. Put the wood, washers and hand tight the nuts. Start tigtening the nits with wrenc /13 mm if M8/ one, two turns at the times to each nut. This will pull the pump from the boat wery easy and clean.

Note: if you did not removed the cone yet check it often to make sure it is not in touch with the wood

gazza2010au
11-17-12, 02:52 PM
My 2 cents

I got about 14 inches peace of wood 2x3 /this is what I had in the garage/ drilled 1/2 inch holes so when i place the wood over the pump with nozle off I can put screw trough the holes on the wood and screw it in the mounting holes for the nozle / diagonal - aiming two oposite holes / in the way the wood is against the boat. Got threaded rod M8 /check what is your bolt size for mounting the nozle/ and cut teo pcs to about 5 to 6 inches. Got M8 nuts /two pcs/ and some washers so the nut can't go trough the hole in the wood. Screw the rods in the pump abot 1/2 inch in the two oposite holes / i used upper left and lower right/. Put the wood, washers and hand tight the nuts. Start tigtening the nits with wrenc /13 mm if M8/ one, two turns at the times to each nut. This will pull the pump from the boat wery easy and clean.

Note: if you did not removed the cone yet check it often to make sure it is not in touch with the woodthats a good idea :thumbsup:

nammer
11-17-12, 08:48 PM
My 2 cents

I got about 14 inches peace of wood 2x3 /this is what I had in the garage/ drilled 1/2 inch holes so when i place the wood over the pump with nozle off I can put screw trough the holes on the wood and screw it in the mounting holes for the nozle / diagonal - aiming two oposite holes / in the way the wood is against the boat. Got threaded rod M8 /check what is your bolt size for mounting the nozle/ and cut teo pcs to about 5 to 6 inches. Got M8 nuts /two pcs/ and some washers so the nut can't go trough the hole in the wood. Screw the rods in the pump abot 1/2 inch in the two oposite holes / i used upper left and lower right/. Put the wood, washers and hand tight the nuts. Start tigtening the nits with wrenc /13 mm if M8/ one, two turns at the times to each nut. This will pull the pump from the boat wery easy and clean.

Note: if you did not removed the cone yet check it often to make sure it is not in touch with the wood

thank you, that sounds like an excellent idea, I have a lot of confidence it will work!

TheGunMan
11-17-12, 09:11 PM
It worked for me ;)

Steenkamp
12-14-12, 01:33 AM
This was a knowledgeable thread...I got answers to few of my problems and queries..If I'll have some problems during the time of installing then I will ask you again...:)

IDoSeaDoo
03-24-13, 11:19 PM
Hey guys what do I do if my impeller won't come off? I've applied tons of heat, used a cheater bar and an impact gun and that sucker is STILL STUCK!! Do I have to get it glowing or something? I have a vice that rotates so I can have it hold the pump in a horizontal position. Should I try jumping on the breaker bar. It's not reverse thread is it?

suke
03-25-13, 08:24 AM
You can bang out the wear ring without taking the prop off. Band it out VERY carefully from the back side. My prop is frozen to the shaft. It's never coming off. So we had to bang it out.

VaDeerHunter
06-19-13, 05:41 PM
You can bang out the wear ring without taking the prop off. Band it out VERY carefully from the back side. My prop is frozen to the shaft. It's never coming off. So we had to bang it out.

I don't have the tool and have a sneaking suspicion mine may never come off too. I wonder if the freezer method would allow me to remove the wear ring without having to remove the impeller? If I can get it off that way, getting back on should be pretty easy. Any thoughts? One more thing, I assume the pump comes off with just the 4 bolts after that is when the removal of the impeller and all that begins.

Pat

Pirana
07-02-13, 04:21 PM
subscribe, great info....will be doing mine soon.

Brooke1b
07-29-13, 09:10 AM
Blakeliz69@gmail.com. Help, I pulled my 2005 130hp seadoo sportster jet boat down to Florida yesterday, put it in the water, and it wouldn't go faster than 5mph no matter the rpm. It did this until we stopped at a beach for a while, and then it started working fine again until I stopped for a moment and then back to the 5 mph thing again. It comes and goes. It did this a few weeKs ago as well.

IDoSeaDoo
07-29-13, 09:21 AM
Blakeliz69@gmail.com. Help, I pulled my 2005 130hp seadoo sportster jet boat down to Florida yesterday, put it in the water, and it wouldn't go faster than 5mph no matter the rpm. It did this until we stopped at a beach for a while, and then it started working fine again until I stopped for a moment and then back to the 5 mph thing again. It comes and goes. It did this a few weeKs ago as well.

Sounds like maybe you have something wrapped around your driveshaft. I would crawl underneath the boat and inspect it. If the problem persists after you remove the rope or w/e it is, chances are it damaged your pump seal. It's super easy to replace, just order it for $5, pull your pump off and put on a new one. While you have it apart, go ahead and check your impeller to wear ring clearance and your pump-oil. You can find a free repair manual on Google to reference the spec. Good luck!

Coastiejoe
07-29-13, 09:41 AM
Blakeliz69@gmail.com. Help, I pulled my 2005 130hp seadoo sportster jet boat down to Florida yesterday, put it in the water, and it wouldn't go faster than 5mph no matter the rpm. It did this until we stopped at a beach for a while, and then it started working fine again until I stopped for a moment and then back to the 5 mph thing again. It comes and goes. It did this a few weeKs ago as well.

The fact that this comes and goes does not make sense. If something was wrapped around the shaft I think the problem would persist and not come and go. I guessing one of two things.
1). Shaft seal has gone bad and you are sucking air through it creating cavitation.

2). Shaft splines or PTO issue. This would allow the engine to rev but get little to no performance.

IDoSeaDoo
07-29-13, 09:56 AM
I sucked up a piece of ratchet strap and it caused intermittent cavitation. Sometimes the strap would get in the way and cause severe cavitation, other times, after stopping, it would find a more benign position and the ski would run better (still not perfect). It did damage my seal though.

Brooke1b
07-29-13, 12:50 PM
I had to take mine to a local repair. The owner listened to it, and in one second he said the wear ring was loose and spinning in the impeller.

IDoSeaDoo
07-29-13, 01:28 PM
I had to take mine to a local repair. The owner listened to it, and in one second he said the wear ring was loose and spinning in the impeller.
That's a new one! Never heard of the wear ring shrinking...

highrolla85
05-05-14, 11:13 PM
this is very helpful im going to tackle this on my 05 seadoo 3d question do i need a impeller removal tool for mine i can find one listed thanks every1

LKGrider
05-05-14, 11:29 PM
this is very helpful im going to tackle this on my 05 seadoo 3d question do i need a impeller removal tool for mine i can find one listed thanks every1

Makes it a lot easier with the impeller tool. It can be done with out removing the impeller but very tricky to not damage anything. They aren't that expensive. Esp if your going to check/service everything while you are in there. You will be glad you spent the $10-$15 for it

highrolla85
05-06-14, 07:59 AM
Yeah I wanna go through everything I can while I'm in there I found a tool says it fits all 2 stroke ski

IDoSeaDoo
05-06-14, 08:33 AM
There are two different tools out there, one for a 140mm pump, and one for the 155mm. They are not interchangeable. Find out what size pump you have. There are many ways to find out, like go to ShopSBT.com and browse around their parts. They usually do a good job of listing what part fits what ski.

highrolla85
05-06-14, 09:00 AM
Ok thanks I'll check them out

LKGrider
05-06-14, 09:08 AM
That's where I got mine from. Just put in your ski and hit search. Everything they have for your ski will pop up including tools

highrolla85
05-06-14, 12:00 PM
Ok i have a 155 mm

Off2fly
06-13-14, 07:32 PM
Deleted and moved thread.