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WITZ352
06-22-10, 09:16 AM
I am new and wanted to say hello! I am also in desperate need of some help too...........I own a 2000 sea doo challenger 2000 with the mercury v6 m2 engine. Lately, sometimes when i cut engine off, it wont start back up. sometimes its after two days of boating, sometimes, its within the first hour of boating. turns over but no start. i changed out the "thumper" fuel pump (feeds fuel to primary pump), and checked fuel pressure, and checked spark. everything SEEMS to be ok?......hard to determine spark and fuel pressures when its just turning over.....I have been told it could be ignition control module, stator, primary pump, or even the rev limiter module............all of which are hundreds and hundreds of dollars with no garuntee of fixing issue. there are no repair shops that can diagnose the issue because it is so intermitt. plus it only happens under load, in the water........i have ran boat for hours on trailer, and never had an issue...............im so frustrated, im about to just sink the damn boat. can anyone help??? heard of this problem? Thanks

Dr Honda
06-22-10, 03:29 PM
This is the problem with the Merc boats... they only used that drive for a couple years, and we (as a group) don't know much about them, and the fuel system is so convoluted... it's hard for the average person to check.


If you join as a premium member, you can download the engine manual for the Merc. It has a bunch of troubleshooting guilds in it.


As far as a dealer... SeaDoo isn't going to help you. You will need to take it to a Merc Outboard dealer. BUT... they will bend you over, and give it to you dry just to look at it. (most of the time)


OK... with that out of the way, I would say to take it to the closest lake, and go ride around until the problem happens again. At that point... you can quickly check for a spark. (carry an extra, clean plug)

If you get spark, then check fuel pressure at the fuel rail, just before the regulator. (on the mix tank) You could have a regulator going bad, and it's not allowing pressure to build in the injector rail. (the pumps would all still be pumping)

WITZ352
06-22-10, 03:41 PM
took it to merc m2 specialist and he guessed the thumper pump that fills canister to primary pump to start. although this seemed to work for the first two days, engine ended up doing the same thing. turning over but no start. took all plugs out. black and wet. cleaned them all up and still no start.

WAJetboating
06-22-10, 03:52 PM
I have been told it could be ignition control module, stator, primary pump, or even the rev limiter module............all of which are hundreds and hundreds of dollars with no garuntee of fixing issue.

Whoa, whoa, whoa... don't just throw money at replacing various things randomly. That's what lowlife dealers with no education do, just swap out expensive modules at your expense. Let's put some thought into this instead, shall we?


There are no repair shops that can diagnose the issue because it is so intermitt.

That's true of any problem on anything. If it doesn't happen when the "expert" is around, he can't fix what doesn't appear to be broken.


plus it only happens under load, in the water........i have ran boat for hours on trailer, and never had an issue

Are you SURE being under load makes a difference? Have you actually tried idling it for "hours" while docked in the water? Just asking.

So let's ask ourselves what is different between running on the trailer for "hours" and running "under load in the water". One big difference is that the RPM's never get very high on the trailer because you're not supposed to rev the engine past idle (some Mercury references say up to 2000 RPM's is OK). That means 1) very little fuel flow is occurring, 2) the engine never really gets warm, and 3) you have less vibration. Those things can change behavior a LOT.

That said, let's back up and consider your symptom: It cranks but won't start. Does it give any hint at all of trying to start (coughing, sputtering, almost but not quite starting?) or does it just crank and crank as if dry? Diagnosis will be very different if the engine just cranks, or if it almost-but-not-quite-starts.

Presuming it just cranks forever: After cranking for a while, have you removed a plug to see if it's getting fuel? If the plug is dry, you have a fuel problem. If it's wet, at least you have some fuel.

Presuming you have fuel: Are you getting a spark when this problem occurs? I know you said you checked spark, but did you check it when this problem is actually occurring? Get an inline spark tester (cheap at Harbor Freight) and have someone else crank while you watch the tester. Check all six plugs.

If you have fuel, and compression, and spark, SOMETHING should happen. We know you have compression because the engine runs sometimes. You need to determine if you have fuel in the cylinders and spark at the plugs.

Here's an early idea: If you have fuel but no spark when this problem occurs, it could be as easy as a failing kill switch. Those fail occasionally, and they operate by grounding out the CDI modules that drive the plugs. You can prove this to yourself by leaving the tether off and trying to start the engine - it will crank and crank but never start (sound familiar?).

There are other things that also ground out the CDI's. We can easily diagnose that once we know if you have spark and fuel when the problem is occurring. Please check those things and report back.

WAJetboating
06-22-10, 03:54 PM
took it to merc m2 specialist and he guessed the thumper pump that fills canister to primary pump to start.

Hmm, he "guessed"? Some "specialist". Will he refund your money now that his "guess" was proven incorrect?


turning over but no start. took all plugs out. black and wet. cleaned them all up and still no start.

OK, so you have fuel. That's good.

Have you checked for spark at the plugs when the problem is occurring?

WITZ352
06-22-10, 04:19 PM
thank you so much in your interest in my issue. may take me a few replys to get to all your questions. i have disabled kill switch to rule that out. problem happens with kill switch connected and disconnected.

specialist had to guess cuz problem didnt happen with him there. he didnt charge me anything to look at it because he didnt find anything. it seems only when towing skiers, and passengers aboard is when it is most likely to happen but that isnt always the case. there really isnt any reasoning behind why it does what it does, when it does it. it used to no start every 10-15 starts, but since i replaced pump, i ran it for two days without a problem until the end of day two..........probably about 30 starts total until no start. i pulled all plugs this past weekend and cleaned them but it didnt help. plugs were very dark and very wet. engine compartment smelled like gas.

i have ran boat for hours in and out of water trying to get it to not start back up, but no luck.....

i have merc engine manual and have tried all trouble shooting suggestions. no luck. my father is a master technician for 35+ years but not with boats. he is very familiar with engine issues tho. he actually rebuilt this motor when it overheated and locked up. we went out for an entire day and drove boat around to try and get it to act up so we could diagnose, but it never messed up.

WITZ352
06-22-10, 04:21 PM
fuel in the clyds.........no sure???? im guessing so since plugs are soaked???

spark? i believe so...........i have an inline led spark tester hooked to one of plugs and it lights up, but weak. it seems brighter when engine is actually running.

WITZ352
06-22-10, 04:26 PM
when it stopped starting this past weekend. i did check spark with tester and with plug grounded out. led was not bright with tester and spark was not bright on plug. seemed weak

daverade
06-22-10, 04:28 PM
engine compartment smelled like gas.

[/QUOTE]

you may have a lil fuel leak too.....have you done a compression test, justa thought...you said mostly when pullin a load!!!!

WITZ352
06-22-10, 04:44 PM
boat has compression. runs great and doesnt overheat. just wont start sometimes.

WAJetboating
06-22-10, 04:54 PM
it seems only when towing skiers, and passengers aboard is when it is most likely to happen but that isnt always the case.

Those conditions involve higher fuel flow, higher RPM's, and more bumps/vibration than just sitting, idling, or being on the trailer. Those are clues - we just don't know to what, yet.


i pulled all plugs this past weekend and cleaned them but it didnt help. plugs were very dark and very wet.

Good. That means you're getting fuel. Try this: When it happens again, remove one plug, dry it completely, put it back in, crank again for 10-15 seconds, and then check the plug a second time. This will confirm you're getting fuel RIGHT THEN, and that it's not left over from the last time the engine ran.


engine compartment smelled like gas.

As noted by the other responder, that may indicate a fuel leak. However, the engine runs sometimes so obviously the fuel leak isn't preventing the engine from running. If your fuel lines are the originals they may have deteriorated and need replacing. Rule of thumb is replace fuel lines every five years. I just did mine (after nine years) and the slight fuel smell I had noticed occasionally has vanished. I had no evidence of a fuel leak but the fumes were obviously getting out somewhere. Worry about that after you solve this starting problem.

Also, the engine compartment will get smelly when you crank like this for a long time without starting because you're running raw, unburned fuel through the engine.


problem happens with kill switch connected and disconnected.

OK, that's one of at least four things I can think of that can short the CDI's to ground. The others are the keyswitch, RPM limiter, and throttle guardian. They all tie into a black-with-yellow-stripe wire that goes to the CDI modules. Any of these devices grounding that wire will stop the engine and prevent it from starting - but they will NOT prevent it from cranking.

First, please try the dried plug test above to confirm you are getting fresh fuel when the engine won't start.

Next, you're going to disconnect the CDI grounding circuit. I'm doing this from memory (engine is ~40 miles away) so bear with me.... As you look down at the top of the engine the cylinders are toward the rear of the engine. Above the right bank of cylinders, on the top of the engine, are two black plastic rectangles mounted one over the other. The top module is the RPM limiter. Find its wire bundle and trace along each wire; I believe one of them is already black-with-yellow (the CDI wire). The CDI wire crosses toward the center of the engine where it meets up with other such wires and connects together with them. From that junction, a single black-with-yellow goes back toward the cylinder heads, spark plugs, and CDI modules.

That last wire, the one going toward the plugs, is the one you want to disconnect. IIRC you may have to disconnect two connectors to isolate that wire, but they're all bullet connectors that just pull apart. Your goal is to electrically isolate that wire so nothing is connected to it. That way nothing in the boat can ground the CDI's. Keep track of what you disconnect so you can reconnect it later.

CAUTION: Once you do this the normal methods of protecting and stopping the engine won't work anymore. Stopping the engine will rely solely upon the keyswitch killing power to the ECU, which will in turn stop firing the injectors and the plugs. The engine may not stop instantly, so be prepared. Also, you will have no overrev protection so if you do this on the water do NOT go over waves that could bring your jet intake out of the water. Basically, just use your head.

Isolate that wire, then try starting. Report back!

WAJetboating
06-22-10, 04:56 PM
boat has compression. runs great and doesnt overheat. just wont start sometimes.

I can't remember - does this problem ever occur when the engine is stone cold? Or only after it has warmed up a bit?

WITZ352
06-22-10, 05:18 PM
NEVER HAS DONE IT COLD. only after running for a while. sometimes only after running for 20-30 min, and sometimes after running for days..................im printing out your second to last post and reading over it with my pops. i will let you know. thank you!

WITZ352
06-22-10, 05:22 PM
yea, i have actually had the two rectangles unbolted from engine, thinking they were getting hot or something. the rev limiter and ignition module were one of our four guesses. my dad read something about eliminating rev limiter but wasnt really sure on how to do it. thanks! will try and let you know

kshack
06-22-10, 06:58 PM
I had the same problem last year. I searched this site and found that a few other people had the same problem. Mine started every time when cold . After I'd run it until it got hot and shut it off it would not start- just turn over. It didn't happen every time, but I'd let it cool down about a half hour and it would fire right back up. I replaced the head temp sensor. It cost about $40 delivered. Easy to replace. It hasn't happened since. It may be a starting point.

Before you replace the sensor though the manual states that for a quick check once the engine is warmed up you can simply unplug the sensor and see if the boat starts to run very rich. If it does not you may have a bad sensor. Just make sure to clean the block well where the sensor bolts on as this is where it receives it's ground from.

WAJetboating
06-22-10, 07:30 PM
It didn't happen every time, but I'd let it cool down about a half hour and it would fire right back up. I replaced the head temp sensor. It cost about $40 delivered. Easy to replace. It hasn't happened since.

Yep, that's why I asked the question about whether it happens when cold. The temp sensor causes the injector pulse width to triple, making the fuel/air ratio super rich. But I'd expect the engine to at least show some signs of trying to start, which it doesn't sound like his is doing.

WITZ352
06-22-10, 09:03 PM
not too sure about temp sensor idea??? doesnt matter if engine is hot or not.......happens either way. i let it sit for hours sunday, and the thing just wouldnt start.


on to rev limiter CDI deal..................................after reading your instructions, and looking at engine, i remembered my dad had me do this same thing.....................never tried it when boat was not starting though. only thing that concerns me is that when CDI is unplugged, when i turn engine off, engine still runs 3-5 seconds after killing ignition with key. i guess its better than a engine that wont start but still freaky. im thinking if it has a bad CDI i could always uplug it when it wont start, then after its started, plug it back in and be good???

i guess all i can do is drive the damn thing till it wont start and try it....................i will get back to you next week! lol thanks for all the help and wish me luck! lemme know if you have any other ideas please

jus10hall
06-22-10, 09:33 PM
I had the same problem with my 2000 challenger. Sometimes it would start, sometimes it wouldnt. Every weekend this was a problem. There was no rhyme or reason when or why. When it was running it would run great, though. I talked to a friend and he turned me on to "star tron" ethanol treatment. Since the first day I started using it 2 summers ago I havent had one problem and it has fired up every time...hope this helps.

WAJetboating
06-22-10, 11:46 PM
not too sure about temp sensor idea??? doesnt matter if engine is hot or not.......happens either way. i let it sit for hours sunday, and the thing just wouldnt start.

It could be a bad/corroded connector on the temp sensor. We'll see.



on to rev limiter CDI deal..................................after reading your instructions, and looking at engine, i remembered my dad had me do this same thing.....................never tried it when boat was not starting though. only thing that concerns me is that when CDI is unplugged, when i turn engine off, engine still runs 3-5 seconds after killing ignition with key. i guess its better than a engine that wont start but still freaky.

You'd only do this for testing purposes. Once we figure out what's wrong, you'll fix that and then be back to normal.


im thinking if it has a bad CDI i could always uplug it when it wont start, then after its started, plug it back in and be good???

No, because that still leaves a failing/faulty device in the system.

Remember, you are not testing the CDI's. You are testing everything that can ground the CDI's: Keyswitch, kill switch, rev limiter, and throttle guardian. That's why it's important to disconnect the wire leading to the CDI bank, and not just disconnect the rev limiter... take ALL of them out of the circuit to see if the problem lies there, and if it does then we'll add them back individually to isolate the problem.

Your CDI's are fine or you would have a rough running engine (when it runs).

WAJetboating
06-22-10, 11:49 PM
I had the same problem with my 2000 challenger. Sometimes it would start, sometimes it wouldnt. Every weekend this was a problem. There was no rhyme or reason when or why. When it was running it would run great, though. I talked to a friend and he turned me on to "star tron" ethanol treatment. Since the first day I started using it 2 summers ago I havent had one problem and it has fired up every time...hope this helps.

That reminds me, WITZ352: Have you replaced the two external fuel filters? You should do that every year at winterization. If it wasn't done last year, you should do it now. And following the above poster's suggestion (though I don't think this is your problem), you could run some fuel treatment through it. I recommend Seafoam to decarbon the cylinders and generally clean out the fuel system.

You can do these things anytime, but let's run the CDI kill circuit test first. Your description of the symptoms makes me think the answer is there....

WITZ352
06-23-10, 08:02 AM
I changed the big spin on fuel filter a month ago and did numerous fuel treatments.................second fuel filter?

WAJetboating
06-23-10, 09:51 AM
I changed the big spin on fuel filter a month ago and did numerous fuel treatments.................second fuel filter?

There is an inline fuel filter that screws into the electric fuel pump. It's about the size of a 35mm film canister. The hose coming from the fuel tank connects directly to it. A new one doesn't come with a replacement fuel pump but you may have replaced it when you replaced the pump. Just checking.

WITZ352
06-23-10, 09:56 AM
Oh yea. Changed that

WITZ352
06-23-10, 09:57 AM
So what now??? Drive it till it fails, then disconnect cdi and check??

WAJetboating
06-23-10, 10:13 AM
So what now??? Drive it till it fails, then disconnect cdi and check??

Exactly. You can't debug what isn't broken. Leave everything normal and run it until the problem occurs again, then isolate that black-with-yellow wire and try restarting. You need to see if something on that kill circuit is the problem.

Remember, the goal is to isolate the wire running to the CDI's - not just disconnect the rev limiter alone. Find the black-with-yellow wire coming from the spark plug area and make certain it is entirely disconnected. This may require disconnecting two connectors if I recall correctly.

While you're at it, open and inspect the temp sensor's connector. If it's corroded, the contacts will self-wipe and clean themselves. And you may discover that the connector is intermittent, loose, etc. I don't think the sensor itself is failing because of the intermittent nature of your problem, but a troubled connector might do it.

Report back!

WITZ352
06-23-10, 10:31 AM
Sweet. Thanks again! Will be in touch

WITZ352
07-18-10, 09:22 PM
oooooooooooooooooooook. PLEASE HELP! LOL so after towing skiers for an hour, we cut boat off for 40 min of rest and then it started acting up again. turns over but no start. spark seems good. let it sit for over an hour. still nothing. got towed back to dock, loaded up boat, and took home. after 40min, i got home and tried turning boat over, and it fired right up. when it didnt start on lake, i tried eliminating rev limiter and it was no help. so whats the next step??? this thing is driving me nuts!

WAJetboating
07-18-10, 11:55 PM
When you say you tried eliminating the rev limiter - did you completely disconnect the black-with-yellow wire that runs to the CDI's, as I described in my earlier post? Or did you just disconnect the rev limiter by itself, leaving everything else connected?

Since it sounds like you have fuel (wet plugs) and we know you have compression, I think it's either the CDI grounding circuit or the head temp sensor. If it's the latter, it could be richening the mixture so much that the engine cannot start. As noted earlier, that might explain the fuel smell too.

It might also be the startup signal that runs from the starter to the ECU. If for some reason that stayed at 12VDC it too would enrich the fuel, causing the same situation for a different reason.

But first, let's be sure it's not the CDI circuit. Please describe exactly how you "eliminated" the rev limiter.

WITZ352
07-19-10, 12:28 PM
disconnected black and yellow connections as you described in earlier posts.

WAJetboating
07-19-10, 01:50 PM
disconnected black and yellow connections as you described in earlier posts.

Just to be clear: You disconnected the network of connections on the top of the engine, right? There's a black-with-yellow wire that runs down the aft side of the engine toward the plugs. That wire must be disconnected from everything.

Presuming you did that, the CDI's were not being externally grounded and you should have had spark in all cylinders. It would be nice to confirm that, perhaps by carrying a spark tester in the boat with you.

I'd also like to clear something up. At one point in this thread you said this problem only occurs when the engine is warm. At another point you said it can happen at any time. Which is accurate?

WITZ352
07-19-10, 02:18 PM
yes. top engine. two black andyellow connections. used spark tester on all six plugs and it had spark. deff had fuel. i did some more research on head temp sensor. it makes sense. boat does seem flooded when it doesnt start. then after it sits for a long time it fires up. almost like its when the plugs dry out? and it never acts up until it gets hot.

WAJetboating
07-19-10, 03:23 PM
OK, so it only does this when hot. Given everything else, I think it's the head temp sensor.

There are actually two of them, one on each head near the top of the engine. First, as suggested earlier, disconnect each and examine their connectors. Make sure the terminals are clean. Then reconnect using a dab of dielectric grease and see if the problem recurs. Hopefully your contacts are just dirty/corroded and you can fix this for free.

If it recurs, then I think it's safe to spend the ~$30 for a new temp sensor. But first, remove the existing one and test it. The service manual has complete instructions. I just hate throwing money at parts without knowing they're bad.

Report back!

WITZ352
07-19-10, 06:45 PM
man you are a life saver. yea, i wasnt sure about the sensor at first, mostly because i didnt fully know its function. when it acts up, it does appear to be flooding. the sensor in question that has to do with fuel, is the one with four leads? dealer says there are two sensor (as you said) one has a single lead (im assuming is the actual temperature sensor) which goes directly to the other sensor, and then four leads come off. but, one sensor is over $50, and the other is over $60....................this problem really sucks, im not loaded with money, and hate wasting money, but if i can get a sensor for $30 and have a chance of fixing it, then i would be willing to gamble that. dude, i am so so so sick of being towed back to the dock.

WITZ352
07-19-10, 06:47 PM
sorry, but do you have any clue where exactly these sensors are and a description?? thanks

WAJetboating
07-19-10, 07:10 PM
sorry, but do you have any clue where exactly these sensors are and a description?? thanks

I'm looking at the service manual illustration as I type this (we're not allowed to post them, sorry).

The two sensors in question are on the heads toward the rear (aft) of the engine. On each side, find the spark plugs. Between the top and middle plugs there is a sensor screwed to the head.

The one most commonly associated with this problem is on the port (opposite the driver, aka "passenger") side of the engine. It is Mercury part number 13536A14 and current price is $33.06 from at least one online vendor. Here is a link to a photo (I tried to inline it but it wouldn't work):

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/showSpecialPicture.asp?pn=13536A14

(FYI: The sensor on the other side is called, by the service manual, the "coolant sensor" and costs $52.29.)

In the service manual for your engine, page 3C-4, there is a table relating temperature to the DC resistance between the tan/black wires on that sensor. As a rough test, around 77F you should read about 1K ohms. At ~140F you should see ~248 ohms.

Remember, the intermittent nature of this test suggests it may be difficult to absolutely prove that this sensor is the problem. However, if I were you, I'd remove the sensor and put some lukewarm water on the cooktop. Hold the sensor in contact with the water (but without the leads getting wet) and measure the resistance. Then add heat, slowly. If you have a meat thermometer you could monitor the water temp as it rises, and watch what happens to the resistance. They should be inversely related (as one goes up, the other goes down) and the resistance should change smoothly.

But consider this: You're pretty frustrated with the problem. It's stealing time from being on the water. It might be worth ~$40 with shipping to "probably" fix it. That's a lot less than just getting an opinion from a stealership. At some point your time is worth more than the money you're "saving".

Intermittent problems are the worst kind. I would test as much as possible, but realize that at some point you may have to bite the bullet and spend a few bucks on the most likely solution.

If you do buy a new sensor, make certain the contact between the head and the sensor is spotlessly clean. Contamination there can increase the thermal resistance between the two, making the sensor believe your engine is cooler than it really is.

Report back!

WITZ352
07-20-10, 08:53 AM
man, i wish there were more people out there like you! thank you so much........yea, good point.......$40 would be worth taking a chance and gettting out on water. calling stealership now! thanks again!

WITZ352
07-20-10, 08:57 AM
by the way, could the "coolant temp sensor" be causing an issue with other sensor as well? in other words, could both sensors be causing issue? or just the head sensor?

WAJetboating
07-20-10, 09:44 AM
man, i wish there were more people out there like you! thank you so much........yea, good point.......$40 would be worth taking a chance and gettting out on water. calling stealership now! thanks again!

Call a few Mercury dealerships in your area - one might have the sensor in stock. Your engine shares parts with a LOT of Mercury engines.

WAJetboating
07-20-10, 09:47 AM
by the way, could the "coolant temp sensor" be causing an issue with other sensor as well? in other words, could both sensors be causing issue? or just the head sensor?

Not sure, but the head temp sensor has a reputation for causing this sort of failure. As I recall, the other sensor causes the engine to limit its top RPM's but doesn't play a role in the engine's startup process.

WITZ352
07-20-10, 12:49 PM
GREAT NEWS! sensor is deff bad. took it out and tested it and it showed to be working fine. then we wiggled wires around and read out to be open loop. YOU ARE THE MAN! BAD NEWS is no one has one and part is on backorder. any clue where to get one in a timely manner?

WAJetboating
07-20-10, 01:57 PM
GREAT NEWS! sensor is deff bad. took it out and tested it and it showed to be working fine. then we wiggled wires around and read out to be open loop.

Excellent!


BAD NEWS is no one has one and part is on backorder. any clue where to get one in a timely manner?

First, can you fix the one you have? An intermittent wire connection may actually be easy to fix. Can you determine where the break is in the wire? Is it near a connector, in which case you can just cut and resolder the connector to that wire? Is it near the sensor itself, in which case you may be able to solder directly to the wire and strain relieve it to the sensor body?

If none of this is possible, I believe this site has a recommended vendor for Mercury parts. Check there first. If not, then here are some options:

1) Most local Mercury shops do an order per week. See what their turnaround time is. Does "backorder" mean "we don't have it in the shop out back" or "the factory doesn't have any either"?

2) This site:

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_Pictures3.asp?dnbr=881303&ivar=images/SPORTJET/881303/B13.png&inbr=5387&bnbr=130&bdesc=REED+BLOCK+AND+CYLINDER+HEAD

...lists the part as number 7 on the drawing for $33.06. I've been happy with their service in the past. Even if Mercury is on backorder, these folks may have in-house stock. (Disclaimer: I have no association with them other than as a satisfied repeat customer.)

Congrats on debugging it, and report back on what you decide about the sensor!

WITZ352
07-20-10, 03:40 PM
i don't think it is repairable. it seems to be broken internally where wires connect to sensor. i can't even see where they are broken. i guess i just need to order a new one. the shops in my area said that sensor is on national backorder and will take atleast a week to get in.

WAJetboating
07-20-10, 03:46 PM
i don't think it is repairable. it seems to be broken internally where wires connect to sensor. i can't even see where they are broken.

OK, but since you already know it's broken, there's no harm in digging into it a bit, right? I'd strip away the insulation on the wire in question and see if you can find the break. You have nothing to lose and ~$40 + water time to gain.


i guess i just need to order a new one. the shops in my area said that sensor is on national backorder and will take atleast a week to get in.

That's if someone doesn't have one in stock, which is why I suggested checking with the site I mentioned. If they have one on the shelf, it could be on its way to you today.

Also, I haven't tried this, but there is a pretty decent aftermarket industry supporting Mercury engines. I've been amazed at what I've found... rev limiters, high pressure fuel injector pumps, etc. You might do a few Google searches using the part number, or subsections of it, to see if there's an aftermarket alternative.

Report back!

WITZ352
07-25-10, 07:53 PM
WWWEEEEEEELLLLLLLLLLLL IT'T NOT THE DANG SENSOR. SO AGGRAVATING :mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:

WAJetboating
07-26-10, 10:24 AM
If the sensor's wires were intermittent, the sensor was definitely bad.

What happened? Did you get a new sensor and it didn't fix things? You don't say what happened, just that you're angry. Please elaborate.

WITZ352
07-26-10, 01:08 PM
OH SORRY! LOL yea got new sensor and boat did same thing. has spark and fuel, just no start

WITZ352
08-02-10, 08:45 PM
any idea of what i should try next??? cdi box?

WAJetboating
08-09-10, 07:18 PM
any idea of what i should try next??? cdi box?

You say you have fuel and spark. If you have spark, there's no reason to try new CDI modiules. There's also no reason to continue worrying about the CDI grounding circuit, since if you have spark that circuit isn't getting grounded.

As we all know, if you have spark and fuel and compression, SOMETHING should happen. So if you're certain you have spark, how certain are you that you have (enough) fuel? If you dry the plugs and try again, do they get wet again?

Have you tried squirting some fuel into the plug holes and starting again? Does the engine try to start when you do that?

Have you done a compression test? I doubt that's the problem, but while we're checking things it's something to know. Are ALL six cylinders showing good compression?

There's an answer in here somewhere. We'll find it.

challenger01
08-22-10, 07:38 PM
I don't want to steal your post, but I just had a bad day with the challenger 2000 (Mercury 240 EFI).

I have had it out 5 times since I bought it with no issues. A lot of tubing and turning the boat on and off without issue.

Today it fired up on the trailer in the water with no issue and I backed away from the launch. I did not run it out hard but I did move it a little and then as I approached the dock it stalled. I could not get it to start from this point on.

It beeped, I waited 5 seconds and then turned the key. It seems like it was going to run but it just died within 4-5 seconds. It did this repeatedly.

I pulled the boat, checked in-line filter and blew that out (some debris but nothing major) and put it back in the water on the trailer. Same issue as before.

I removed the lanyard and replaced, checked the fuses near the main shut off, looked for obvious issues.

I could get it to start for a few seconds but by the time I switched from N to R it was stalled out.

Also, dont know if this is normal or relevant, but the speedometer would jump during this short on period, but no movement on the tach.

The boat is 1 hr away from my house and the storage marina will look at it this week, but I would like to know if there are any other steps I could take.

Thanks

WITZ352
08-22-10, 07:54 PM
man i dont know. ive pretty much lost all hope on mine lol mine never stalled. just wouldnt start back up periodically. Florida Football is starting up in a few weeks so i guess i will give up on my boat till next summer lol