PDA

View Full Version : Anyone had a leaking stator?



Donpanama
05-13-10, 12:21 AM
Recently got a m2 jet drive with 250 optimax attached to a 22 foot Polaris Made by BAJA one ton (2050lbs) boat. While catching up service, I found that the drive oil was like tar (pretty nasty) but no water in it. I changed it out with freah merc HP gear oil. I found the stator was the one leaking., I changed the oil through the nozzle and found it contaminted with water looked pretty milky. REfilled with 85-140 and lake tested, drained and seemed like it picked up a little water ove 2.5 hours. ahhhh man this stinks.

The boats runs out well and preforms well but I know this issue is bad news as to how bad I have not figured it out yet.

DO STATOR seals just start leaking ? or is it something else that has caused this to happen. ???????


If someone has torn into this before or knows about how to seal this up any support would be great. I am trying to figer out what other boats have the optimax 250 with jet drive as well. Finding usable data regarding my jet is not easy.

Dr Honda
05-13-10, 08:10 AM
DO STATOR seals just start leaking ? or is it something else that has caused this to happen. ???????




Yes... oil seals can just wear out. Once the sharp lip burns off... they leak.


Thanks for the link on the PDF's... I'm sure they will help others. :cheers:

WAJetboating
05-13-10, 03:54 PM
I'm not impressed with this jetdrive document. Just three examples:

1) Why on earth remove the steering nozzle? Just remove the entire steering/reverser assembly like the manual says to do.

2) Why remove the ride plate? Leave it attached to the stator and just remove the two (much easier and non-adjustment-sensitive) Torx screws toward the front. Again, just like the Mercury manual says.

3) How does contamination in the STATOR lube indicate a leak in the "gear case"?


DO STATOR seals just start leaking ? or is it something else that has caused this to happen? If someone has torn into this before or knows about how to seal this up any support would be great.

Yes, shaft seals eventually wear out. Remember, that impeller shaft is turning thousands of revolutions per minute. The shaft is nicely polished but there is still some friction.

Fortunately, this is really easy to repair. You need to replace the seal. I just did this myself and it takes all of about five minutes.

Go to any Mercury shop and ask for Mercury part number 26-14381. It's a very standard "double lip seal". If they don't already have one in stock, they can order it for you and have it in a week. Or you can order it online from www.mercruiserparts.com or many other sites. Or you can go to a local machine shop supply house and get the equivalent part if you take the old one along so they can match it. (I'd get the Mercury one.) Cost for the authentic Mercury part is about $20.

Pull the stator and drain the lube. Looking at the end with the impeller shaft hole, there's a plastic ring (called the "seal protector"). Carefully pry that off with a small flatblade screwdriver. Next is the seal. Best case, use a standard seal puller (available at Harbor Freight for under $20 and handy to have around for other things too). Or, you can carefully pry it out using a somewhat larger flatblade screwdriver. Be careful if you go the screwdriver route, and don't damage the two bushings farther inside the stator. If you use the seal puller it will literally pop right out. Pay attention to which way the seal sits in the stator - it's asymmetrical and you want to install the new one the same way.

Find a hex socket that just barely fits inside the seal area in the stator. Also get a rubber mallet, or a dead blow hammer, or a 2x4 and a regular hammer.

Clean up the edge against which the seal rests in the stator. Optionally apply a thin bead of anerobic gasket maker around this edge to further improve protection against water intrusion.

Lay the new seal flat on the stator and start working it into the stator with your fingers until it has started in all the way around. Now tap it gently with your mallet, dead blow hammer, or lay the 2x4 on top of it and tap the 2x4 with regular hammer until it's flush with the surface of the stator.

Next, hold the socket centered on top of the seal and tap the socket so that the seal recesses into the stator and comes to rest against that lip inside. Work around the socket so that you're certain the seal is fully seated all the way around.

Snap the seal protector back into place on the stator.

You're all done! You have just properly replaced the stator seal, learned more about your drive system, and have the peace of mind knowing that it was done properly, and for less money, than if you had taken it to a shop.

Reinstall the stator, fill with new lube, and you're ready to go.

Hope this helps... report back!

Donpanama
05-14-10, 01:22 AM
Thanks so much for your detailed reply and insight. The comment made in the PDF kinda scared me regarding gear damage..."Any foam or milk like appearance is reason for concern and indicates a leak in the gear case and may have caused bearing and gear damage." I plan on fixing the stator seal and put a few hours on the boat and drain both drive and stator and refill just to be sure I am in the clear.

I now have it all set up at the storge place where I keep it and everything has penetrating oil on it was well. I had to bring over the generator ,compressor and impact wrench and tools. I tried to hit a couple with the hand socket wrench and man they were totally frozen, I do not think anyone has ever done anything to the jet pump at all (80 hours on meter). I did see just regular black plastic ties on the bellows, I am not sure what Merc puts on as original eqp to secure/seal the bellows...the rest of the bolts and paint around them look virgin. After seeeing the tar sap I got out of that drive gear oil chamber I know maintenance was not top priority for the previous owner (bummer for me) it was something I did not even think about...You must check everything, or have it check out. Hopefully I get lucky and it's only the stator seal... : )

Anyway, much thanks your your detailed mini instructions it's giving me the the confidence to knock this out and get our (new to me 04') family boat back on the water. ( I have only had it out once with family and discovered all this, wifey thinks I bought a lemon! I will reply after I get -r- done.

This sedoo forum rocks ! :hurray:

Regards,
Don in Grand Prairie, Texas
two 1 four seven 1 eight forty four fifty four

ddeem
05-15-10, 12:26 AM
All of the instructions above are great for replacing the seal.. I just did the same thing to my Challenger 2000 (240EFI M2) but also replaced the bushings.. I had water in my stator as well. Make sure you check the tail of the impeller shaft. I hit mine with some fine emory cloth followed by crocus cloth to remove some burring from having water in the stater. The bushings had some rub thru so I replaced them for good measure...

When I drained my gear box I had tar like gear lube as well.. This was just after I purchased the boat. I replaced this with high performance lube but had the plastic oil pump worm gear break on the motor on the third run...Motor #4 cylinder seized up. My frustration is growing, but I am now rebuilding the motor. Anyway, once I pulled the motor I turned the pinion shaft by hand and it feels pretty good an smooth..cross my fingers... since your gear fluid and stator repair sounds identical as mine, thought you would want to know...

Dave

Donpanama
05-15-10, 01:03 AM
Thanks WAJetboating I took your advice and took it off as a whole assembly. I just unhooked the steering/rudder and shift control cables, unpluged vacuum hose above nozel and removed the 2 screws holding on the trim plate and then took out the 4 large bolts holding the stator to the impeller housing and off she came very easyly ( after penetrating oil twice and an impact wrench to crack off the gig mama

After I removed the assembly I noticed the seal was sitting cock eyed in the stator end even the seal protector was not sitting right. I was fairly certain that I pulled it strait out so I am not sure how it got that way unless it was mis installed by the last person that worked on it.

I wonder if they put the seal in backwards. "10. Install new seal using Special Tool 91-850831. Smaller diameter seal lip faces out." I did see the end on the seal that was tapered down to the shaft facing in toward the indide cavity of the stator housing. WIth the instruction #10 I am not really sure which way the seal should be facing, but I do know did not appear to be seated well.

Should the seal go strait up aganist the first innner bushing of the stator or should there be a little gap ? I found the the smaller plastic lid on my dirty oil container was a almost perfect fit to the circumfrence of the seal. So I used it to gently better seat the seal using a small hammer....


Is there a chance the seal jumped out of place uppon removal of the assembly or was it just misinstalled? Also should I just go ahead and try it again as is or with a new seal (26-14381). I will have to wait for the seal several days untill next week since no one has in stock local.

Donpanama
05-15-10, 01:18 AM
Good to hear yours was that way as well. I am sorry about your oil pump crapping out on you and messing the motor up, that suks I feel your pain and frustration.

Do you remember how the seal went in. The decrription is rather vague in the manual. I found it half way out after oulling the assembly off as a hole and I am not sure what to think about it...?

Any chance we could talk some time on the phone? I would love to hear you end on it since you had a situation much the same as mine.

Don
cell # two one four seven 1 eight 44 five four

WAJetboating
05-15-10, 01:41 AM
Thanks WAJetboating I took your advice and took it off as a whole assembly.

Now, remove the center hex plug from the rear of the stator to drain out the very last of the old lube. Replace that plug, using thread sealant, and later you'll remove the upper one to fill with new lube.


After I removed the assembly I noticed the seal was sitting cock eyed in the stator end even the seal protector was not sitting right. I was fairly certain that I pulled it strait out so I am not sure how it got that way unless it was mis installed by the last person that worked on it.

IMHO it's very unlikely that YOU caused that. I'm careful when pulling the stator to keep it inline with the impeller shaft, but still... I don't think you did it.


Should the seal go strait up aganist the first innner bushing of the stator or should there be a little gap ?

Flush up against the inner stator seating surface. And even all around, not "cockeyed".


should I just go ahead and try it again as is or with a new seal (26-14381). I will have to wait for the seal several days untill next week since no one has in stock local.

Remove and discard the old seal, clean up the seating surface, and install a new one. Look at it this way - you have everything apart right now. Take advantage of that and fix it PROPERLY, and you won't have to worry later about wishing you'd done it when you had the chance.

You could replace the bushings, too, as the other respondent did. I actually purchased the bushings intending to replace them but when I pulled the seal the bushings were in new condition, as was the impeller shaft.

I'd buy a new seal and do it right. Just my opinion.

Report back!

Donpanama
05-18-10, 12:50 AM
I got a couple more hours in on it got the stator drained and cleaned up all the bolts and hardware ready to put back together. I took the stator up to a bass proshop where I ordered the stator seal,(2) bushings and bought some merc 101 (over priced lube, ouch). I had the mechanic feel the bushing and they felt a little rough to him as well and he recomened I replace them as well.

HOW on earth do these bushings buried inside the staor come out and go back in? I have done quite a few things but never extracted bushings before.... If someone has done this I need a little push in the right direction on getting this done. Thanks in advance.

Don in DFW Texas.:confused:

Donpanama
05-18-10, 12:54 AM
I got a couple more hours in on it got the stator drained and cleaned up all the bolts and hardware ready to put back together. I took the stator up to a bass proshop where I ordered the stator seal,(2) bushings and bought some merc 101 (over priced lube, ouch). I had the mechanic feel the bushing and they felt a little rough to him as well and he recomened I replace them as well.

HOW on earth do these bushings buried inside the staor come out and go back in? I have done quite a few things but never extracted bushings before.... If someone has done this I need a little push in the right direction on getting this done. Thanks in advance.

Don in DFW Texas.

WAJetboating
05-18-10, 03:51 AM
...typically you remove the center hex plug and use a long flat blade screwdriver to push them out.

WAJetboating
05-19-10, 01:53 PM
Donpanama, I'm moving this back to the thread (instead of PM's) so that others can search and benefit from this discussion someday. Sorry for the need for the PM, my account mistakenly got deactivated for a while yesterday. They've fixed that and we're back to normal.


Thanks for the tip on removing the nozel, rev. bucket and stator as one assembly, I could not believe how easy it came off.

Yep, nice and easy. In fact, I'm ready to put mine back on, hopefully today. I've been doing a mini-overhaul on my jetdrive this Spring and everything is done except putting the steering/thrust reverser back on.


My main problem know is getting the old bushings out, the seal popped right out with a small flat head screw driver. Holding the stator looking into the seal side opening I am wonder on how to extract the bushings. I went to autozone today after work and found what I think is a sterring wheel puler called a blind hole slide hammer puller. Then I see the huge nut 2" maybe 1 7/8ths or so and wonder If I should take that off to get at them.

I believe you're talking about the seal protector, not a "nut". I know it has a hex on it, which implies you could use a wrench, but I have no idea why. It's not threaded at all.

First, you should have removed that seal protector before messing with the seal. DEFINITELY don't install the new seal without removing it. The ID is too small to safely install the new seal without damage.

Removing the seal protector is easy - get a small flatblade screwdriver and work it out by gently prying around the circumference of the protector. It will back right out and you can remove it with your fingers. With that out of the way, you will be able to see the bushings easier.

Removing the bushings can be a little awkward, but have patience. Using a 1/4 inch Allen wrench, remove the center hex plug from the back of the stator (not fill plug that is offset from the center, but the drain plug that is dead center). If you haven't done it already, tip the stator so that the last of the old lube can drain out of the center hole. Now stand the stator on the trim plate.

Looking through the impeller shaft hole, you can see the drain hole in the back. Looking through the drain hole, you can see the impeller shaft hole in the front. The bushings are visible from both holes.

Insert a long, medium sized flatblade screwdriver into the drain hole while you observe through the impeller hole. Place the blade against the rearmost bushing and tap it. Move 180 degrees to the opposite side of the rearmost bushing and tap again. Repeat. As you do this, the bushings will move forward toward the impeller hole. Eventually you'll be able to remove first the front one, and then the rear one.

Clean everything as best you can by reaching into the impeller hole with a rag. Then install the new bushings one at a time, making sure the rearmost one is fully seated before starting the front one.

Install the new seal as I described earlier. This time make certain it's fully seated against that shoulder in the stator. Be sure to insert it the correct direction.

Finally, tap the seal protector back into place. You're done!

When reinstalling the stator, apply a healthy film of High Performance Gear Lube Plus (the stuff you pump into the stator) onto the new seal AND the rear of the impeller shaft. Then gently, gently slide the stator over the shaft. Seat the stator properly, install the four bolts using either thread sealant or a touch of medium strength Loctite, and torque to spec. (Hint: I use thread sealant on the big jetdrive bolts instead of true thread locker. This gives you vibration protection but doesn't lock those stainless bolts into that aluminum housing quite so hard. I'd really, REALLY hate to break or strip one of those bolts in that housing.)

You're doing a great job. Report back and keep us posted!

Donpanama
05-20-10, 01:26 AM
Thanks for the feedback, I was refering to the stator housing hex head aprox 2" that the seal sits in. With all help here and there I have got a better and safer way to remove the bushings. I would like to rewrite and clean up the thread so it's not so confusing for future members to understand since we bounced around as I fumbled along doing this for the first time.

I do recommend highly this method over using a screwdriver poked up thru the drain and vent plugs risking not only damage to the plug threads but also the bushing seat. Using a puller is easy and would be less risky all in all. The bushing are split no there is no need to cut them to extract (use penetrating oil). I spent considerable time figuring out the best way to get these bushings out in the least risky fashion. With ddeem, wajetboatings and others experience to assist me I hope future members to have good guidence and keep that baby well maintained and on the water ripping a wake...

Bla bla bla anyways.

After inspection of the bushing and feeling them a little rough I decided to go ahead and replace bushings(x2 $15) along with the seal ($20), I am reusing my seal protector ($21) as it appeared to be in new condition. I had ordered them already just in case.

Ok assuming you have already removed the aft end of the jet drive as an assembly (rev gate,nozzle and stator assy.)
I borrowed from "AUTOZONE" auto parts house in TX "BLIND PULLER SET (OEM#27128) by leaving a deposit on my credit card of $150 plus tax. JUst take back the tool and the loan is free of charge (I like free). So FIRST remove the drain plugs on aft end of stator (x2) I took the stator and stood it up right with the seal cavity facing upward and put some penetrating oil on it so it would soak down between the bushing and it's seat inside the stator, and at the same time you can get a good slow drain of the lube chamber. Careful that do not let the assy hit the floor and damage the delicate aluminum parts ($1300-1500 together), support it well, it's tricky with nozzel swinging back and forth and rev gate going the other direction (lol). I let it set just 20 mins or so (better longer) then I guaged the depth position of the inner most bushing for reinstallation, measure from the top how far down the top of the inner most bearing and note it.

Ok now lay down the drive assembly on a peice of carpet or rubber mat (like I did and assemble the tool ( "BLIND PULLER SET (OEM#27128) and pull the outer bearing first, make sure your grabber is firmly holding on to the botton of the bushing them keeping it level with one hand use the other to work the slide hammer, bang it out. Be sure when your putting it in place no to overtighten the grabber this could make it more difficult to extract and maybe damage the stator assy ($623)yikes! I first few slides I tought it did nothing so I went a little harder and here it came out :hurray:(joy, I smiled in a big way) the I did the same with the next one. That is where I am so far waiting for the seals and bushing to come in. Go ahead and wire brush down all the bolts and hardware to be reinstalled so they are ready for thread locker and anti fouling grease and thread seal. I like to wipe down all my mating surfaces with a mild solvent like ISOPROPAL alcohol before putting the merc 101 (special over priced!) lube on.

Thanks to all who have responded to my need, If any of you gurus has reassembly advice, I would love to hear you before I go for it. I can't wait to get out there on the lake, summer is kicking in down here in north Texas.

I have several good pictures attached of bushings (with a quarter between for reference), puller tool and the removed assy, common stator wear and a little damage( I plan to Dr. Up before reinstall (comments or advice on that needed... Hope this helps as you guys helped me, when we share everyone wins.

IDJetboating
05-20-10, 01:43 AM
I own a seal puller like the one you borrowed. But my bushings were in good shape so I didn't replace them (though I did purchase them ahead of time, like you did).

Yes, the hex is on the stator, not the seal protector. I presume it's there as a machining contact, so the tooling can rotate it precisely as the part is shaped.

I notice you're missing quite a bit of paint. The underlying aluminum may be starting to pit a little due to cavitation under heavy acceleration. Since you have it apart anyway, consider smoothing and repainting those surfaces. Mercury sells their OEM black enamel paint in a spray can (~$10?) which is perfect for this purpose. I bought a can and used it to touch up my wear ring and stator during this Spring's jetdrive rebuild.

My reassembly advice appears earlier in this thread, if you're interested.

Where are you using Special Lube 101? That's what they prescribe as antiseize on the impeller shaft (though any quality marine grease will do just fine), but the manual doesn't specify it for anything around the stator.

Thanks!

Donpanama
05-20-10, 07:08 PM
Thanks man. Yea the rough pitting does bother me. Those fin baldes take some abuse. I was thinking to try some high strenth a/b epoxy and try to mend the chipped ones and fill in any roughness. I will do that for sure now that you mentioned it. Just for good measure. I'd like to go ahead and remove the impeller wear ring and smooth that as well. I figured I could just use small flexable plastic spreader to force material into any scoring I encounter and wipe the excess off or wait till it dries and rubber block sand any roughness off before reassembloy. On the impeller i was going to just take the advice another member posted to carefully file all the leading edges to a fairly sharp edge.

THe merc 101 lube is great for anything you do not want to corrode. Bolt ends that make contact with assembles, threads Where locker is not called for and any metal exposed to the water. ALso the casing facing like where the stator mates up with the impeller housing. Those metal to metal areas are where nicts in the paint and fouling can start. Putting on a little coating in all these places will make future maintenance much easier and hopefull less costly. Always wear at least nitrile or chem gloves when working with it (merc 101 special lube (teflon based)) this stuff will eats your hands up fast....

Then again I may just put it back together and use it a while. I only got to take it out a couple time before I started to catch up all the maintenance. I plan to drain out the engine oil and refill it with DFI quicksilver/ Mercury oil. The gentelman thought it was a efi so I'm sure he was putting in EFI ($16 less per single gallon.

Thanks again for your post and tips..:) I looked for your reassemble in my thread but did not find it, I'll will try a search later when things slow dow (after kids are asleep)

WAJetboating
05-20-10, 10:59 PM
This may also prove useful:

http://articles.richardhartman.net/jetboat/mercurym2winterization.htm

Donpanama
05-21-10, 02:30 PM
Thanks again, WAJetboating , Ok I am going crazy waiting for my parts to come in. I am ready to get on the water man. My family /kids keep asking "Daddy is the boat ready yet"????

Have you ever doctored up the stator veins? I am thinking JD weld now would be the easiest....? Any comment appreciated.

Don

WAJetboating
05-21-10, 02:51 PM
Have you ever doctored up the stator veins? I am thinking JD weld now would be the easiest....? Any comment appreciated.

My stator was in much better shape than yours appears to be. I was only missing a little paint in a very few areas. I didn't need to add material at all. Just 6-8 light coats of Mercury's enamel paint, applied over the course of an entire day, smoothed everything nicely and reprotected the underlying aluminum. I'll probably do that every couple of years now, depending upon wear. (This was after nine years of pretty heavy use, so it may not wear all that fast.)

My wear ring showed a few regions of what I'm guessing was cavitation wear. The paint was missing and the underlying aluminum was pitted a bit. This was in 2-3 places, none bigger than a quarter. The paint was perfect everywhere else. I find it odd that the wear was not more even, but since there was absolutely no suggestion of abusive damage (such as something solid passing through the jetdrive) I'm attributing it to cavitation.

I did use JBWeld. The regular, slow-cure stuff. I mixed up a generous portion and applied it to the spots in question. I then used an auto body mix stick (really just a larger-than-normal popsicle stick) left over from my waketower install to spread the JBWeld around, press it into the voids, and feather it out onto the wear ring.

After letting it cure for 24 hours, I used 600 grit emery paper to sand it smooth. I sanded the undamaged painted portions around the JBWelded portions too, so the transitions were gentle. Then I wiped the entire surface of the wear ring down with brake cleaner (leaves no residue).

I masked off the wear ring, set up a spray area, and applied the first thin coat early in the morning. I applied another light coat every 90-120 minutes. I kept that up until bedtime late that night. The wear ring probably has 10-12 coats. The stator was painted at another time, and since I didn't do any repairs I gave it fewer coats.

This refurb work on the wear ring, plus having my impeller reworked at Impros, yielded an impeller clearance of just 0.028 inches (0.014 on each side). That's tighter than factory new specifications. I'm delighted.

One thing I'd do differently next time around: Pile up the JBWeld in those areas where you are actually replacing lost material, then sand it back down after it cures. I tried to smooth it to its final profile before curing, which left a couple of places that are a few thousandths low. It's not really practical to go back and add more JBWeld because a layer than thin won't adhere very well. The numerous coats of paint helped a bit but optically you can still see the difference.

Obviously I don't think it will make any difference hydraulically, but why not make it perfect if you're doing it anyway. I'd leave the JBWeld just a bit thick, then use 600+ emery paper to bring it back down using big sweeping strokes so it blends in with the rest of the wear ring surface. That should yield a perfect, smooth surface. Top it off with paint and it will be good as new!

All of this applies to the stator, too, except that you don't have a nice smooth reference surface. I'd still use a bit extra JBWeld, then smooth it out with emery paper and paint it.

Donpanama
05-24-10, 12:15 AM
I added some pics of the before after and during of this stator refirb.


I ended up doing jb weld ($5) on all the area that need filling and and using a needle file set from Radio Shack to smooth and shape the vein (x7) leading edges, I used one of the round small needle files too sand down the very rough area beteen each vien and the outside of edge of the stator housing on the inside almost seemed like a rough welding bead. I assume that the stator is just a aluminum sand cast, which would explain the excessive wear, because of not so pure poured aluminum I followed the radius on all edges and took my time making sure each was as true as I could get it by hand. I ended up going with lacqure paint and applying 4 coats and letting the HOT Texas sun bake it between coats. I am happy with the home refurbished stator and know it will be fine.

Hopefully I can find the time soon, I will be working on reseating the bushings and installing the new seal. My buddy brought over his torqe wrench so I am ready to roll . Who knows I might be able to get it back together before Memorial day... I have some nice pics I took along the way that I will post next time I get on here. Wish me luck man. And thanks for backing me up ! I always look forward to your responses they have been more than helpful.

:cheers:

IDJetboating
05-24-10, 12:47 AM
Sounds like you're making great progress.

I finally launched our boat this weekend, after the mini-overhaul and jetdrive refurb. My wife always takes it first while I bring the trailer around to our property. When I met her on our dock, her first words were "It sounds really great!" Since it didn't sound bad last year, and since she's not always sensitive to the subtle changes in equipment, that's a really good sign.

I took it out immediately thereafter, and it purred like a kitten right up to 6000 RPM. Not much of an exhaustive test but it's early in the season yet.

Stay in touch!

Donpanama
05-25-10, 02:17 AM
Well I got the opportunity to work on it again yesterday and this afternoon, my wife is not happy with me and the boat "project", am I the only one with this problem (speak up)?

Anyway bla bla bla... (now comes the real bla Bla BLA)

Attached are macros of some the work on the stator. This is what it looks like now after the stator "refurbish" and 4 coats of (rustoleum $6 Black Gloss lacqure paint from hdepot). Prep is every thing for paint so make sure to scuff the enamel down as well to blend them together.

Reinstalling the bushings is do able without a press but a little tricky with out the special prescribed seal and bushing tool in the drive tool kit ($300+ merc dealers only I think)(mentioned in the service manual). Assuming you have the bushings out already and have properly cleaned it up. I greased up the fist one and started it by hand and used a dead blow hammer till it was in the seat a little. I sprayed in some penetrating oil to assist in the reinsertaion Note that I have it in a card board board box with the drive sitting verticaly to allow the oil to soak in between the new bushing and the seat.

Then I used a much larger socket with the flat side on top of the bushing, again with a dead blow hammer in one hand and holding the socket with the other I started working it in there beating on the socket like a cave man. After I got it in as far as it would go I found a smaller one (23mm) craftsmen socket that I DO NOT RECOMMEND to use... The socket had a very small belelved edge that seemed great at first but ended up tweeking the leading edge of the bearing and now it's in 90 % :rant:(Cursing, rant and rave, stop breathe you are not going to freak out(yea right)...lol:chillpill: I found a file and very carefully pushed and pulled the corner of the file (being careful not to touch anything else) over the nicked area until it was as smooth as the other edges after luckly I was able remove the metal lip I created by beating on the wrong size socket(dumb move caveman).:) The best policy is to use the old bushing with the clean smooth side down and slice a section out as I mentioned below, I am saving the bushing for future use. Whatever you use must almost fit in the seat and be flat and smooth and clean so it does not not nick up the new bushing going in.



ALways feel around as you go and make sure there is nothing damaged and only smooth metal that will be riding on a film of 90 weight at 6k rpm on your drive shaft. What ever you end up using make sure it sits flat a top the bushing your tapping on. (lesson learned hope you got it as well). So I got creative and vised down one of the old bushings and with a mini sawzsall took off about 1.5 -2mm (about as thich as a quarter...) to one one side of the split and made myself a driving tool to finish the job. I used a screw drivers handle that was close to the size of the bushing inner diameter and wrapped it with tape until it was the same size. I then set the cut down old bushing on the new (90 % in one) and stuck the screwdriver down into to stator (right thru the drain hole until the handle was aligning the new and old bushing with the smooth side of old bushing aganist the new. Then I slowly worked it down tapping pretty hard (with dead blow a top the old bushing util it was inside completly (one down and one to go). THen carefuly get the next new bushing started right behind it and this one will push both in (add some more penetrating oil again. It has no where to but down between the seat and bushing making your job easier. I Used the large socket again and drove that baby down as far as I could then went back the the alingment tool (yea right) and drove the second bushing down just below the seal seat. :hurray:

Next it was time to install the seal ($19). I found a oil drain cap made of plastic that was just right size and lightly greased the outside edge of the seal and used a terry towel over the seal placed the plastic cap on gently (not like a cave man:stupid:) tapped it down until it was seated completly....Then reinstalled the seal protector (tap tap tap ($21) and your almost done... grease up the shaft and seal with new HP lube and carefuly slide the unit onto the wear ring housing (so you do NOT jack up the seal) and reinstall the four large bolts.
I covered the bolts in MERC 101 special lube and used thread sealer rather than locktite so that I could get off the bolts at end of season without getting a testical contortion (someone elses sugestion (seadooforum rules))...

I REplaced the Drain cap with thread sealer. Left off the vent cap so I could fill it later... I reconnected the vacumm hose in center on top and reconnected the steering rudder using more 101 on movable joint and bolt. I only lack now connecting the shifter cable and fillin gthe stator back up. After which I will lake test for a few hours:hurray: and redrain fluid and look for evidence of contamination, if it 's all good I will reuse oil and hit the water ASAP :)

The reason it cut down the old bushing was (1)so I have a driving tool that would not damage the new bushing edges as we are seating it and (2) so that I could easily extract it from the seat by squeezing it with my fingers or a tool like a pair of channel locks. This worked well for me (slow but well). Be sure to see the pics which might be more helpful than my blog...: ) They will give a much better idea of what to expect when taking on the ole stator and completly rebuilding it to good working order.

If you have read this far I pitty you and can only hope my AADD has not confused you and hope you found at least some this at least helpful or somewhat entertaining. Wish me luck I hope this the start of a happy and trouble free boating season (yea right) for my family and I.

For More pics see next post (max 5 pics):confused: It's late going to bed, I'll edit this if it's all jacked up. Hope it helps someone out there.

Donpanama
05-25-10, 02:36 AM
Here is couple pics of the bushing insertion, Like I said it can be done by you in your garage with a little creativity and patience. No need to pay and expensive "marine mechanic". God I hope my boat still runs...:hat: lol

I will be in the water before memorial day even if is just floating with an oar :hurray:

I added pics to the refirb of the stator earlier in this thread.