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View Full Version : 00 speedster 240h Merc M2- Flooding issue and wont run after ~30-45mins??



rygunner
08-20-09, 09:54 PM
I currently own a 2000 seadoo speedster with the 240hp Mercury M2 jet-drive engine. I had in a previous thread how i just had the impeller, wear housing, intake grate, and stator all replaced. Now that i got the whole pump rebuilt i have been so excited to take it out.. However, it will only run for about 45 mins, before it completely dies and wont start again. After it dies, it will turn over, but when i try to crank it, it smells like bad gas in the engine compartment, and I can see gas leaking all over from somewhere by the throttle body... And the more I try to crank it, the more gas i start to get.
I have taken it to a local sport & riverboat repair shop, but he can't duplicate the leaking (cause he can only run it for a few minutes off a normal hose). My guess is that it is getting too much gas and flooding?? The tech said he thinks it could possibly be the fuel pressure sensor as well? The only thing he changed was a fuel filter, and that didnt fix the issue. Any Help would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks!
-Ryan G.

rookie101
08-20-09, 10:21 PM
If the needle vale in the vapor separator is not sealing, or the float that controls it has sunk you could end up with a flooding condition. You need to take the VS apart and have a good look at the float and the needle.

Also johnhibbs a member on here had a problem with the rubber exhaust hose delaminating on the inside and restricting the flow. That could also be a possibility. Due to the age of the boat, it would be a good idea to change the exhaust as a maintenance item.

Aaron:cheers:

rygunner
08-20-09, 10:37 PM
Thanks I will check both those possibilities...
Does it sound like it could possibly be anything with an fuel pressure sensor or temp sensor? It runs great everytime for about 45 mins, then starts to sputter, and completely dies. Cant get it to start anytime after that until i leave for several several hours.

rygunner
08-23-09, 04:32 PM
I currently own a 2000 seadoo speedster with the 240hp Mercury M2 jet-drive engine. I had in a previous thread how i just had the impeller, wear housing, intake grate, and stator all replaced. Now that i got the whole pump rebuilt i have been so excited to take it out.. However, it will only run for about 45 mins, before it completely dies and wont start again. After it dies, it will turn over, but when i try to crank it, it smells like bad gas in the engine compartment, and I can see gas leaking all over from somewhere by the throttle body... And the more I try to crank it, the more gas i start to get.
I have taken it to a local sport & riverboat repair shop, but he can't duplicate the leaking (cause he can only run it for a few minutes off a normal hose). My guess is that it is getting too much gas and flooding?? The tech said he thinks it could possibly be the fuel pressure sensor as well? The only thing he changed was a fuel filter, and that didnt fix the issue.

The other forums I read said that a easy fix could be replacing the cylinder head temperature sensor? Where Can I find one of these, and/or does this seem like it might fix the issue?

Any Help would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks!
-Ryan G.

rookie101
08-23-09, 07:46 PM
Give http://www.crowleymarine.com/ a try. They should have the temperature sensor in stock.

As for the fuel pressure sensor the mechanic mentioned, are you sure he didn't say pressure regulator? There is no fuel pressure sensor on the engine, just a vacuum operated regulator. If the regulator was bad it could cause a flooding problem, but I don't think it would be temperature related like you describe. It sounds more like an electrical problem that occurs only when hot. The cylinder head temperature sensor could give you a problem like this, as well as possibly the trigger or stator assemblies under the flywheel.

Do a quick spark check when it's acting up, you never know the ignition side of things could be breaking down when it gets hot. For the fuel side, start by doing a resistance test on the cylinder head temperature sensor. The manual recommends you remove the sensor and use some ice water and a thermometer for the test. With the sensor in the ice water it should read about 1.8k ohms at 50f, and .4k ohms at 122f. You could also do the test with the sensor on the engine. Just hook up your multimeter when the engine is cold and watch for a smooth drop in resistance as the engine warms up.

If the sensor seems fine try wiggling the wires for the trigger and stator assembly when the engine is acting up. Let me know if you would like the resistance values for checking them.

Aaron:cheers:

rygunner
08-25-09, 09:51 PM
Well I took out the cylinder head temp sensor and everything seemed to test normally. It read about 800Ohms at ~75degree F, and went i put it in ice water ~30-40 degree F, it went up to about 2400-2500Ohms...
Nextly I went to take apart the VS as mentioned, but I am having a very tough time getting the return fuel hose off.. There is no screw to remove it and I it is in a very tight space... Is there any trick to removing the hoses, or do I even need to remove them? In the first picture below, I circled where I noticed the gas leak coming from... Any other suggestions and/or what else should i look for or test?

rygunner
08-25-09, 09:52 PM
Sorry - heres the pictures.

rygunner
08-25-09, 09:58 PM
Also, I did check, and am getting spark. However when i pulled out my spark plugs, they are wet, and a little dirty when the problem occurs. I also pulled out the drain plug from the vapor separator, and it looked like pure gas that came out... It was really light, and didnt look anything like oil mixture? Didnt know if this was normal or not, or if it would have anything to do with it not starting after a good 45 mins.

rookie101
08-25-09, 10:16 PM
You can actually leave that hose where it is if you don't want to take them off, but if you do want to remove them just cut the old clamp off and replace it with a gear clamp of the proper size. To remove the vapor separator, remove the three bolts that hold it to the manifold and tilt the bottom away from the engine. Then remove the nine that hold the top to the top to the tank and pull it away. Once it is off you should be able to get a better look at where the leak is coming from as well.

Have you replaced the plugs lately? If not replace them. They could be breaking down and causing the engine to flood. One last thing, is one of the members here had a problem with his exhaust delaminating on the inside and restricting the exhaust flow. If yours is doing this when it gets hot it could be backing the fuel up due to no exhaust flow and causing your problem. Check all the rubber hoses for your exhaust and make sure it is still in good shape on the inside. Her's the thread to the exhaust hose problem. http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=20821

Aaron:cheers:

rygunner
08-25-09, 10:23 PM
I will take it apart and have a look right now... Would another item to check be the TPS? I have read a couple other forums with users who have replaced that?.. Thanks for the help aaron.

rookie101
08-25-09, 10:28 PM
I will take it apart and have a look right now... Would another item to check be the TPS? I have read a couple other forums with users who have replaced that?.. Thanks for the help aaron.



It could be a number of sensors. The TPS is just a variable resistor, so unplug it and make sure it sweeps smoothly with your multimeter. Don't remove it from the engine, as it is adjustable and the adjustment is a critical part of engine set-up.

Aaron:cheers:

rygunner
08-27-09, 02:33 AM
Well, I completed all the tests i wanted and here is the results. After removing the VS (what a pain), everything inside looked fine, and i saw no problems - the float and needle seemed normal inside, and the filter was in like new shape. I checked the exhaust hoses, and didnt see any signs of them delaminating.

Lastly, I tried to run a test on the TPS with my multimeter.... I stuck my multimeter in the harness with the Blue wire, and other lead to ground. My readings were .51 with the throttle all the way closed, and 8.1 with it all the way open... The service manual said it should be about .24-.26 closed, and about 7.46 when all the way open.... I didnt want to adjust it, because about that time it started doing some wierd things... I had the key turned just to the "ON" position, and after a few minutes (while doing my TPS sweep) some sensor (right by the cylinder head temp sensor in a square dangling box)started making some clicking noises like it was trying to turn over, and then gas started coming out all over... It would do this for a little while, then quit. Then It would start clicking again and more gas... And all i was doing was trying to readout my multimeter... Any Idea's as to what might be going on and what i might check next??

rygunner
08-27-09, 02:36 AM
It looked like the gas was coming from somewhere back behind the Vapor separator, just above the place I circled in my photos...

rygunner
08-27-09, 09:17 PM
Also, Replaced my Spark plugs today with new NGK's... The old ones were really blackened...

rookie101
08-27-09, 11:40 PM
That noise may have been the fuel pump relay clicking which would explain the fuel, but I'm not sure. It sounds like you have either an injector O ring, or the injector rail is leaking. You are likely going to have to remove the induction manifold to have a look.

When the engine is cold it runs much richer, so it may be using all the extra fuel, but once warm it floods the engine.

Aaron:cheers:

rygunner
08-28-09, 03:09 AM
Ill post a picture of what is clicking later today... It seems like something may have some sort of overflow, and when engine is in "run", it is flooding ,and the overflow is leaking out? Is this possible... Post the pic of the sensor clicking later today...

rygunner
08-31-09, 08:36 PM
Here is the little sensor that is clicking...

Thunderkat13
08-31-09, 11:39 PM
Like Rookie101 said, thats the
24 882751A1 RELAY ASSY-TRIM 1 Info $14.08
http://www.crowleymarine.com/mercury_parts/5387/80.cfm

It clicks when the key is on, and will click for a little while and then cycle off.. Ill make a small video tomorrow of what mine does on key turn to turn over ....

rookie101
08-31-09, 11:41 PM
That's your fuel pump relay. The ECM was probably telling the pump to run every once in a while with the key in the on position to keep the fuel rail primed and ready to start. That would explain the fuel from the manifold if you have a rail, or injector leak.

Aaron:cheers:

rygunner
09-01-09, 01:39 AM
What would be my next best step?? Would the relay be causing the problem, or is the leak being cause from something else that I need to take apart?
Do I need to remove the manifold?

rookie101
09-01-09, 11:04 PM
The relay is fine, it's supposed to be doing that. If you look up to post 15 I mentioned that you most likely have an injector, or the fuel rail leaking inside the induction manifold. You are going to have to pull it apart and have a look.

Aaron:cheers:

rygunner
03-07-10, 09:20 PM
Well, after a long winter I still havnt been able to fix my leaking issue with my 2000 seadoo speedster. I was running all the tests I could think of, and lastly I was trying to sweep my TPS sensor, and broke it :(. So I just ordered a new one today, and hopefully they will be available..
I'm still not sure what direction to take as far as my gas leaking and flooding issue. It seems like the boat will run just fine for about 30-45 mins, then will die, and not fire back up. It will turn over, just not fire. When trying to make it fire, gas will just start coming from all over. Its like its getting way too much fuel after the first half hour or so of running. I think i will try and take it to a mercury dealer after my TPS sensor arrives. Anybody have any suggestions as to what might be causing this problem? Is there anything computerized that may tell the engine how much fuel to recieve after a period of time? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

rookie101
03-08-10, 12:35 AM
A bad cylinder head temperature sensor could cause it to flood when hot if it's tell the ECM that the engine is still cold. That wouldn't explain your leak though. Did you ever determine where the fuel was coming from?

Something else to check is the fuel pressure regulator that mounts on the top of the vapor separator. if it sticks it will keep sending full pressure to the rail when not required. If you have the manual there are a couple of simple tests for both of those. If you don't have a manual available let me know and I'll send you the specs when I get home from work on Monday.

Aaron:cheers:

johnhibbs
03-26-10, 04:44 PM
The leaking gas sounds really strange. Don't know what to say about that. sounds dangerous.

As far as failing after 45 minutes my Mercury guy told me that the coils for the ignition that are around the flywheel can be a problem. Once the engine heats up a fine wire in one of the coils can open up and the engine stops dead. Only happens after the engine is warmed up. Engine works great when cold. There is a place in Georgia that repairs those coils. Maybe next time it happens you could cool down those coils and see if it starts up. Maybe use a can of freeze from radio shack. If it's a coil then maybe these guys can help: www.cdielectronics.com They repair coils.