View Full Version : Merc M2 trim options
08-07-09, 11:43 PM
I am looking for ways to reduce porpoising of challenger 2000. Above 30 mph boat wants to start bouncing. I sure wish it had VTS like the skis and dissapointed Mercury or Seadoo did not have a trim system. Seems like it would have been easy to design a trim nozzle for this jet.
It looks like traditional hull mounted trim tabs would not work on this transom. I found some options by searching Internet.
This trim system replaces the trim plate on the pump itself.
another was a complete jet pump replacement for $2000
I was also wondering if the existing trim plate can be adjusted down enough to help.
Any suggestions? Has anyone here installed a trim system on their M2 boat?
08-08-09, 12:22 AM
I am also curious .... I like the looks of the power wedge.....
08-08-09, 12:31 AM
$615 dollar investment....I need to save for
08-08-09, 02:18 AM
You can also get a Scotts hydraulic trim nozzle as well, but it runs around 1500 or more. The nice thing about the nozzle is you're actually pointing the jet down, which has the added benefit of keeping spray out of the riders face. For the price the diverter looks like a good unit.
I would start with adjusting the factory ride plate about half to three quarters of an inch lower. the first outing I had with my Utopia it wanted to porpoise a bit, but the ride plate adjustment cured it.
08-08-09, 09:32 AM
Yes it was scotts I saw for $2000. Looks like it replaces most of the pump and nozzle. Seems like something more simple between the pump and nozzle to allow up/down movement could be made like on the seadoo pumps.
Good to know that the existing plate can be adjusted down enough to help. I tried but did not see how to adjust it. I will look again now that I know it's adjustable.
08-11-09, 08:11 PM
I installed the place diverter on my Challenger 2000 and I wouldn't want my boat without it. It really smooths out the rough water. The installation was easy. I did have some parts wear out and had them replaced with a brass sleeve. I can send some photos of the installation. Would highly recommend it.
08-11-09, 08:30 PM
Ask them to install a brass sleeve for hydraulic arm that the pin goes through instead of just drilling a hole. They will probably do it for free. I called them once on a weekend and got someone to talk to me. See attached for location of pin. Without the brass sleeve the drilled hole will get bigger and bigger over time and you will need to replace a hydraulic acutuator after time because the hole will break through and the acutuator will disconnect. I still highly recommend this product.
08-11-09, 08:40 PM
Did you check those hoses yet?
08-11-09, 09:18 PM
John change your doc to an image, I can't view it the way you loaded it. Also where did you pick the diverter up from? I tried contacting the manufacture and got no response.
08-11-09, 10:37 PM
They are on the West Coast.
08-14-09, 01:07 AM
How was it to adjust the factory ride plate? I get A LOT of spray out the back of the boat....might try this on the weekend if I can just pull it out of the water and do it while on the trailer.
08-14-09, 07:10 AM
I have not had boat back out yet. Hopefully this weekend I can install some parts I ordered and adjust plate. But that's not going to reduce jet spray. Only the nozzle trim system would help that.
08-14-09, 09:45 AM
I just read up on what "porpoise" is and my boat does that so this will help for sure.
I will be keeping an eye out for review on the trim system.
08-14-09, 11:32 AM
On my trim plate the further down I control the plate the greater the spray but the smoother ride in rough water. If the plate is controled all the way up the spray goes away but the ride become very bouncy. In calm water I am able to come up to plane much quicker by having the plate down and then gradually lifting up the plate once I am at plane. The results are almost immeditate when starting out. I can see the front of the boat go down as soon as I start lower the trim plate. When I'm going across the lake at say 20mph and start to feel the front of the boat bouncing up and down I just adjust the trim plate down until the boat levels out. If the lake is smooth I just set the trim plate all the way up after I get to plane.
08-16-09, 11:18 PM
Finally made it out to the lake. I adjusted factory trim plate down about 1/2 to 3/4 inch on screws. Before doing this I loosened the two screws on the bow end of trim plate then loosened the adjustment jam nuts on the stern end, then backed out the two Phillips adjustment screws so the head was down below the plate, then used the jam nut to move the plate down, finally retightened the forward two torx screws.
Made a world of difference, no more porpoising (bouncing) on the bow. It's not adjustable while riding but it's good enough. Seemed to make steering easier as well. I think I'll hold off on the $600 adjustable trim for now, perhaps later if I see the need.
08-17-09, 10:08 AM
This weekend while going over my other problems I also adjusted my trim plate about 1/2-5/8th inch lower and wow did I notice a difference. It was a great weekend on the water but choppy and it rode through there without porpoising really ever which is amazing. Love stuff you can do for free that gets nice results like that :)
Steering is also a little more touchy nice but I like it that way :)
I noticed that there are 2 large washers on the rear of the trim plane. Should those washers be there? I'm looking at a used boat and test drove today with some porposing. I remember seeing the trim plate, which was fairly flat. I just want to make sure the washers are supposed to be there. Thanks.
08-06-11, 08:13 PM
Yes I think mine has those washers. Trim it all the way down and it will eliminate the pourpoising.
08-25-11, 01:37 PM
Has anybody noticed an increase in fuel consumption after lowering the trim plate? I adjusted mine today and am hoping it cures the bouncing but am afraid I will use more fuel. My 2001 Challenger 1800 with the Mercury 210 is not very fuel efficient. I'll find out this weekend.
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