View Full Version : how to change WEAR RING
07-28-09, 05:32 PM
how do you change the wearring? or is there a good site showing how to?
07-28-09, 05:36 PM
Type in "wear ring replacement" in the search function and you'll get a ton of info. Let me know if you have any trouble.
07-28-09, 06:48 PM
Replacing the wear ring
1.) Remove the three hoses on the inside of the boat. (Attached to the pump) if you do not do this first, you will forget and cause all kinds of problems for yourself!!!
2.) Remove the steering rod, 10mm bolt and nut.
3.) Remove 4 13mm bolts holding nozzle on. with this off you will have a much better view of the wear ring.
4.) Remove 4, 17mm bolts from the pump to hull. Make sure you pull off all the lock washers and washers to ease pulling the pump.
5.) This is the tricky part.... Most shops gob all kinds of silicon on when replacing the pump and so it makes it a pain to pull it away from the hull.
You need to pull the pump away from the hull as straight as possible.
They sell a pump removal tool but I just made my own. Cut a length of 2x4 that I set across the rear of the ski and drilled 2 holes in it. I thread long 13 mm bolts with washers through the top two holes of the pump where the nozzle mounts. This pulls it away nicely with a butterfly impact.
6.) Now you have your pump and impeller in your hands, the next step is to remove the 3 8mm bolts on the cone. Make sure you have something to catch the oil and nose plugs.... This stuff reeks to high heaven...
7.) After cleaning out the oil I place the pump impeller side up in a vice. (grabbing the flat end of the pump shaft in a vice)
8.) Place impeller removal tool in the impeller and grab a 1/2" drive 3/4 socket with a huge breaker bar. Twist it counterclockwise till it pops loose. (May take some pressure. I seriously use a 4 foot pipe on the end of my breaker bar and use a popping motion rather than smooth pressure.)
9.) Now that you have the impeller out take your new wear ring and put it in the freezer.
10.) You have to get the old wear ring out of the pump. (I have found the easiest way is to take a saws all and cut a slit in the wear ring the full length of the pump) Be careful only to cut the wear ring and not the pump.
11.) Take a large standard screwdriver and a hammer and tap the screwdriver gently between the wear ring and the pump all the way around to separate them.
12.) Clean all the white corrosion off the pump where you will be putting the new wear ring
13.) After tackling this task go to the freezer and grab that wear ring. (don’t dilly dally with it) get it to the garage and slide it in the pump. you may have to tap lightly with a rubber mallet. If it doesn’t slide in then you didn’t clean the pump good enough. Repeat steps 9 and 12.....
14.) Reinstall the impeller in the reverse order.
Note: it is very important not to pinch the thrust washer when re-installing the impellor shaft. That’s why it’s a good idea to do it in a vice rather than on the ground sideways.
Once the impellor is tight you should have 1/8 - 1/4 inch play in the shaft back and fourth. if you don’t start over and inspect your thrust washer you probably pinched it..
15) Inspect the rubber o ring and if it is good apply silicon and reinstall the cone. Make sure the allen fill plug is on top.
16) Lower the front of the ski and add oil to the cone. When it is full, take a brake and have a drink. There is air in the cone and when you go back you will see that it is low. Top it off and take another brake... do this until the fluid does not lower again. I often start the ski for a few seconds to make sure oil is all the way worked into the bearings and all the air is out.
17) wipe silicon on the set screw and screw it in (be sure not to run it all the way into the cone. just deeper than flush is fine. let it sit 24 hours to cure the silicon and put the nozzle back on.
18) Use Sea Doo 75w90 GL5 Synthetic Polyester Oil, or similar.
07-28-09, 08:20 PM
wow thanks! i just hope nothing falls apart after i reinstall it:)
08-17-09, 02:48 PM
What happens if the splines on the impeller are stripped?
08-17-09, 05:13 PM
Replace the impeller or the shaft....
06-07-10, 01:06 AM
I've always used red Locktite on the impeller threads as the manual suggests.
I use a small torch to heat it a little to remove and that helps a whole bunch. I just point the torch up into where the splines are, but again it is a small torch so it will focus the heat without melting the wear ring or anything.
Do you recommend red or blue locktite on the nozzle bolts into the pump houseing? Also what do you recommend for sealing back up the pump/hull, just plain silicone from Autozone or some similar gasket maker?
06-17-10, 08:47 PM
The only place I use red is on the impeller threads, everywhere else I use blue. Blue dosen't require heat where as red does, but of course is stronger.
I just use a regular blue silicone for the pump/hull seal.
You can find the loctite at many auto places, look for 242 in the part number, it is blue in color used on almost everything marine, it will be a welcome to your toolbox.
06-21-10, 08:12 PM
Is this the same procedure for an 1997 GTX?
09-01-12, 12:52 AM
I just changed both wear rings on my 1996 GTI skis (2) and both are difficult to turn the impeller by hand now... the battery/starter will not turn it. I was expecting it to be tight and the impeller to cut a new tolerance... but, not this tight. Both impellers were in great condition with very little wear.
Anyone have any ideas to try next?
09-01-12, 09:25 AM
You probably pinched the thrust washer, I just did yesterday
09-14-12, 12:21 AM
After having one for a year, I agree with the opinions here. I got one because I was going through plastic wear rings every five hours. Then I noticed the SS ring was detroying my prop, so I had to get a solid front engine mount. That combination is working well, it keeps a good tight tolerance, but I think if I had just gotten a solid mount from the beginning, I would have been able to run a plastic wear ring just fine. Especially when it was discovered that the plastic ring can be flipped and used again, that is a more attractive option, but then again, I believe BRP's new plastic rings must be pressed in and cut out, so if that's the case, I'm happy to just stick with my stainless ring.
09-30-12, 01:01 PM
The new rings (I have a 2010 210SE) and the rings do not have to be cut out. I put the entire pump in the freezer and let it sit for about 45 minutes then I just pull the ring out. On more than one occasion I have pulled the pump from the freezer and flipped it over and shook it resulting in the ring just falling out. This allowed me to either slip a new ring in or just flip the existing ring over, which works fine.
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